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Old 12-07-2012, 09:48 AM   #1
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Zerc/grease amount

Have read it all and still in state of confusion....some say give a couple squirts every 1-2k miles...some say pump the cavity full till if fills up and comes back at you....some say new ones come from factory with cavity empty so take a lot to get it coming back at you....question = how do you know how many pumps???? and when do you get concerned that it may be going somewhere other than the diagramed cavity???? and if you just give it a couple of squirts and it doesn t come back at you are you lubing everything???? why do anything until 6000 miles....since that is what factory recommends....providing you have not immersed them.....
the 6 mo. / 6k miles is for my axles....others may have different time frame....I DO NOT WANT TO KNOW ABOUT PACKING BEARING AND SUCH AS THAT WILL BE DONE ANNUALLY, THIS IS JUST ABOUT PUMPING GREASE INTO ZERC.....one final question, where does the grease go if the system is closed and working properly? I guess if you give it one to two squirts every 1000 miles or so it will eventually fill the cavity and come back at you....????? Oh btw....weight of 5 er is 8000 lbs and speed driven is 56-58 mph twin 4000 lb alko that support about 6600 lbs....at least 4 trips a month ranging from 50 to 250 miles. So trailer is moved about every 7 to 14 days.....when you reply - especially the 1-2 squirts every now and then - do you see the grease coming back at you.....and those of you that pump till it does - does a tube take care of 4 hubs...and how many pumps are required along with type of grease gun......thanks
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:15 AM   #2
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The cavity is (NOT) full from the Fac. Filling from the (Zerk) fitting will require LOTs of grease. Give the Zerk a few pumps ,then remove the outer brg. and hand pack it. Proper way is dismantel hub assy,clean,inspect,replace worn parts,replace seals,lub brgs.and reassemble. By pumping grease into the Zerk fitting you are only (Guessing) it is your call! Youroo!!
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Old 12-07-2012, 02:51 PM   #3
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In closing out

Pulled wheel caps and torqued all nuts. Removed dust cover over zerc and found red grease on starboard side and gray grease on port side which of course has the slide and make fitting more difficult to get to if
slide is extended like at dealer.....Since the grease I purchased is red, I am figuring that the dealer squirted the two zerc s on the easy side and did not service the ones on the slide side....hmmmmm so put 5 squirts in the side that had red grease and 10 in side that had the gray....none of the ones serviced had grease come out at me....but two of the had the cotter keys up against the zerc to had to adjust those to get nozzle on them....done for now....thanks to all those who replied and hope this info
might help others that can do simple tasks but are reluctant at time to attempt......good luck to all....remember 32 degrees spells Florida......
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Old 12-07-2012, 04:03 PM   #4
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sail2liv,
With 40+ years in the field and having owned 2 MH's and 3 TT's here's my take on the situation. My only goal is to share what I've learned so all have more trouble free miles.

These are reasons why one should not use the grease gun method. My experience tells me to avoid any service method that opens one up to more problems. I believe the gun method was introduced because of boat trailers and to make it easier to inject grease.

The grease gun method filled with problems. The hole in the axle which is designed to allow lube to travel to the inner bearing is small. To make it easier to travel the distance the recommended lube is thinner. Now we all know if we are told to give it 2-3 squirts of grease every 2-3 thousand miles some or many think 4-6 is better. I have read many stories how guys pulled their drums off after the first 6,000 miles or so and the inner seal was blown out and the shoes and hub were covered with grease. What caused the seal to blow??? That seems to happen more than is needed and while some may have success with the gun method it will never happen to me.

Wheel bearings on cars/trucks need repacked every 30,000 to 40,000 miles. Why do we have to re-pack trailers every 12-months or 12,000 miles???? It makes no sense to me and it never will. Here's what I always do. Camper is driven to my house. Within a month new tires are installed. I do that so the old tires can be traded in. The China bearings are removed and Toyo bearings are installed. The hubs are wiped clean and 1/4" of Amzoil bearing grease is placed on the inside surface of the hub to control moisture. New seals installed and bearings hand-packed. Correctly set the bearing clearances and leave it alone for the next 20,000 to 30,000 miles. The grease will last for 100,000 miles. The clearance will never change so why bother it until it's necessary???
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:52 PM   #5
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Wheel bearing grease

X2 what teejay said! jdadoug
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:25 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sail2liv View Post
Have read it all and still in state of confusion....some say give a couple squirts every 1-2k miles...some say pump the cavity full till if fills up and comes back at you....some say new ones come from factory with cavity empty so take a lot to get it coming back at you....question = how do you know how many pumps???? and when do you get concerned that it may be going somewhere other than the diagramed cavity???? and if you just give it a couple of squirts and it doesn t come back at you are you lubing everything???? why do anything until 6000 miles....since that is what factory recommends....providing you have not immersed them.....
the 6 mo. / 6k miles is for my axles....others may have different time frame....I DO NOT WANT TO KNOW ABOUT PACKING BEARING AND SUCH AS THAT WILL BE DONE ANNUALLY, THIS IS JUST ABOUT PUMPING GREASE INTO ZERC.....one final question, where does the grease go if the system is closed and working properly? I guess if you give it one to two squirts every 1000 miles or so it will eventually fill the cavity and come back at you....????? Oh btw....weight of 5 er is 8000 lbs and speed driven is 56-58 mph twin 4000 lb alko that support about 6600 lbs....at least 4 trips a month ranging from 50 to 250 miles. So trailer is moved about every 7 to 14 days.....when you reply - especially the 1-2 squirts every now and then - do you see the grease coming back at you.....and those of you that pump till it does - does a tube take care of 4 hubs...and how many pumps are required along with type of grease gun......thanks
I'm sure I have the knowledge to answer your question, if i could only understand what it is you are trying to ask, maybe its me. I am assuming you are talking about wheel bearings but not being removed from axle? For instance auto/truck steering components and ball/u-joints are lubed until signs of old grease are seen being extruded. The wheel bearings on our new silverback with the dexter E-Z lube axles with zerk in the hub, dexter says to lube until signs of new grease can be seen coming back out the cap rotating the hub or drum during the process. These systems are not totally sealed and as the grease deteriorates and escapes it needs to be replenished at the recommended intervals. Sealed bearings of course never need greasing, not to mention that there are different greases for different applications! Hopes this helps!!
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:27 PM   #7
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I think the number of squirts of grease depends on your grease gun. I estimate that it would take 5-8 squirts for about 1 teaspoon of grease.
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:53 PM   #8
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Al-KO ULTRULUBE

Sail2liv, there is some useful info posted here but all may not be relevant to your hubs.

You have a 2013 Flagstaff fifth wheel and my bet is that you have AL-KO Ultrulube bearings, check your manuals they gave you, if not ignore this post.

You do not have to disassemble your hubs and bearings unless you have a big problem, or doing an inspection to check to see if your bearings are worn, I guess you don't have either since your rig is new.

These AL-KO hubs with zerks are designed to filled with a grease gun of hand pump type or the pressurized type that work shops use. The number of pumps you do with a hand type grease gun to either top up or refill is irrelevant.

If you suspect that there is not enough grease in the hub simply remove the rubber cap off the Zerk, pump in more grease until excess grease comes out of the assembly in front of you and wipe it off. You cannot overdo this and will not damage the rear seal and fill your drums with grease, it is designed for this.

If you suspect the trailer manufacturer used inferior grease and you want to replace all of it with the correct grease then buy 2 tubes of NLGI Grade 2 lithium Complex grease with a minimum dropping point of 440 deg F and pump each hub Zerk until loads of the old grease comes out followed by the new grease, then pump some more until only new grease comes out. the grease is cheap! replace rubber cap.

You do not need to jack up the wheels to do this, although it will not hurt if you spin the wheels occasionally whilst you do this.

I replaced all the grease in all my bearings using this AL-KO recommended method soon after taking delivery of my rig 18 months ago and I have clocked up 24000 miles. I check hub temperature with my hand (Carefully)almost every time I stop, always cool so no problems.

AL-KO do recommend disassembly to check for "worn and otherwise damaged parts" annually, but IMO I think this is a get out clause. IMO if the bearings are full of grease, run cool, do not leak grease at the Zerk and do not have excessive play when the wheel off the ground is rocked side to side then they are fine.

I also have a boat trailer and this is a whole different story, annual disassembly and repacking by hand, but not with those AL-KO's

Just my 3 pence worth.
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:56 AM   #9
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I have been following Nigel's procedure for 4 years now and my bearings are never even warm to the touch after hours of driving at highway speeds.

Annual inspections have never been a problem.
Never had grease on the brakes.

The only time I had trouble putting grease into a Zerk fitting; I STOPPED.
After replacing the Zerk it took grease just fine.

IMO, NEVER force grease into a slow Zerk. Using that "hammer tool" to open the Zerk or a pressure grease gun is just asking for a blown rear seal.
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Old 12-09-2012, 08:59 AM   #10
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I totally agree.
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