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Old 04-13-2018, 08:59 AM   #1
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Barker AutoDrain Install

So, the install of the Barker Autodrains is completed. Install is pretty easy, after the first one. I will say, that at least in my 2017 model year 3850RL that Forest River didn't use Bristol or Valterra valves.... Which the Barkers are designed for. I tried to see what was used, but not readable, other than made in Plymouth, IN. As a result on the 1 1/2" Gray water drains, the hole patterns to bolt to the valve body, were off by a smidgen, but elongating the mounting plate holes with a drill solved that problem quickly. However, the Valve itself is a little shorter, so a couple of shims (about 1/4" worth) were needed on the actuator arm so that the valve would actually close all the way was needed. On the Black Valve, the valve body between the mounting bolts is slightly convex, making bolting the plate to it awkward, but still worked. I guess I could have gotten the dremel tool out and ground it down, but it wasn't that bad. This valve must be a little taller than Bristol or Valterra, as the adjustment had to be all the way closed(short as it could go), to make sure the Barker didn't try to close the valve too far, and break itself.

As for the electrical portion, that was pretty straight forward. I had to lengthen the wires, as they come with 24" pigtails, which wasnt long enough. Nicely, they use standard wire colors used on standard trailer pigtail wires(green, brown, white, yellow), so I was able to buy more of the same, and splice it in. There are plenty of power sources to tap into behind the water bay, so that was pretty easy as well. The Valves only draw about 2A, so no need for a separate circuit. I tied into the basement cargo light circuit.

Last part of the install is the water test.... I hadn't de-winterized yet, so my tanks were empty for the install. Once done, I first opened fully, then closed fully all three valves to seat them as normal use, then I poured a few gallons of water into each tank, one at a time and observing to make sure that the valves were fully closing. Surprise, both gray valves were not, and hence the need for additional spacers to make the adjustment.

In the end, the installation was successful. sorry, no photos, it was cold out, and by the time I was getting finished, it was starting to get dark out.
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Old 04-13-2018, 09:42 AM   #2
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What circumstances would you need to open/close these drains remotely?
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Old 04-13-2018, 09:53 AM   #3
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When the shower base starts filling with water while your in it being naked and don't want to risk running outside in your birthday suit to pull the handle, that could be one reason
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Old 04-13-2018, 10:03 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kfergiez View Post
What circumstances would you need to open/close these drains remotely?
I didn't give the backstory. On my Cardinal, the dump valves are inside the enclosed underbelly. They had 6' remote cable pulls on them, that were very hard to actuate, in fact, after the first year, the cable inside had seized up that I couldnt drain my tanks. Dealer broke them loose, but I was never comfortable that it wouldnt happen again.

I installed the buttons to open/close in the outside waterbay. When we are on full hookup, I leave the gray tanks open all the time, so really no need for the buttons to be inside at the control panel.
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Old 04-13-2018, 10:37 AM   #5
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Aha! That’s makes sense.

I was imagining visiting a dump station and flipping a switch while staring at the valves. It didn’t make much sense.
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