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Old 06-06-2016, 01:09 PM   #11
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This is true but, your trailer only moves when you are camping. Your car or truck probably has disc brakes nowadays and that is trouble free until they wear out. The thing that scares me to death is the new forward adjusters on our cedar creek. I found one of the adjusters in the drum when I did a bearing pack. Looked like it was never attached. Like I said before, every year I pull drums, do a brake inspection and check the adjustment if needed at that time.
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:17 PM   #12
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So after reading this I'm thinking I should check the brakes on my new (to me) Roo. The trailer is 2.5 years old.. previous owner went on about a dozen trips per his reporting, and I'm sure he never adjusted them, so I'm guessing they need adjusting?? ( OR do I have self-adjusting?? how do I find that out?)

SO.. I have a couple of questions:

1) what is the best way to jack up the trailer? I have a 2.5 Ton floor jack... do I jack both tires per side at once? or one at a time? where do I place the jack?

2) is adjusting as simple as putting a screwdriver in the hole in the back of the wheel and turning the star wheel? And which way do I turn to tighten?

Thanks,!
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:05 PM   #13
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Jack up one wheel at a time . Try to jack up under spring plate . Get a brake adjustment tool at auto shop, they are angled and make it easier. Pull off the little cover if it has one. Use a flashlight you will see a little notched wheel. Put your tool in there and crank upwards . Before you start turb the wheel and listen for a slight dragging sound. Turn wheel yntil shoe is tight against drum (wheel does not move ) then start backing off wheel until you hear and feel only a very slight drag on wheel . Done ! On to the next one.
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Old 06-20-2016, 10:29 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacknife View Post
Jack up one wheel at a time . Try to jack up under spring plate . Get a brake adjustment tool at auto shop, they are angled and make it easier. Pull off the little cover if it has one. Use a flashlight you will see a little notched wheel. Put your tool in there and crank upwards . Before you start turb the wheel and listen for a slight dragging sound. Turn wheel yntil shoe is tight against drum (wheel does not move ) then start backing off wheel until you hear and feel only a very slight drag on wheel . Done ! On to the next one.
Pretty much. If you have auto adjusters it will only let you turn it one way, if not then if you don't get drag soon in one direction then try the other direction.
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Old 10-08-2016, 02:18 PM   #15
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DRAGGING BRAKES - HOT DRUMS - DEXTER EZ 4000 AXLES

Two year old V-Lite

We have a Infra-red Laser Temperature Gun [Harbor Freight $19.99] and monitor the tire/hub/brake temps. On one short trip we found the brake drum temps much higher that normal.

Pulling the 4 tires and hubs/drums we found the brake shoes hung up on the backing plates and one magnet arm frozen up. Taking everything apart we found no lubrication on the backing plate - brake shoe contact points. At a minimum, this lubrication is standard operating procedure in any drum brake application. Also, the brake shoes had scraped up the crappy paint on the backing plated causing them to stick.
The combination of rust and built up paint was the direct cause of the hangups.

SOLUTION: Every contact point was power wire brushed down to bare metal and everything cleaned. Pay attention to the contact points on the brake shoes, backing plates and magnet arm as well as pivot points.. All contact points were lubed with Lubriplate 3000 grease. A full assembly and test shows normal temps and no dragging.

Note: Proper brake tools are required and knowledge of drum brake assemblies.
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Old 10-10-2016, 07:57 PM   #16
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Just throw tjem away if you can afford it and put on a disc brake kit. About 11,00 to 1, 500 then you will really stop well
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