Brakes, adjusting?

[Wanderer]

Got about 7500 miles on all new brakes on or Card. Getting ready to go again, probably nmt 700 miles this time. Wondering IF I should adjust the brakes and how the easiest means of accomplishing that adjustment?
Thanks,
Wanderer

[97flhtcui]

If it is a new Cardinal your brakes are self adjusting.

[Wanderer]

Originally Posted by 97flhtcui

If it is a new Cardinal your brakes are self adjusting.

It is not a new trailer, its a 2008, new brakes with new brakes but with 7500 cross country miles.

[97flhtcui]

OK, lift each wheel, spin then adjust till it drags then back off till it just barely rubs. Or adjust till it stops spinning then back off till it you can spin again. My 2009 card had self adjusters so I never needed to adjust.

[Witch Doctor]

I agree, time to check them easy to do, I can even do that, better then warping your TV rotors. I have done that once already

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

[jacknife]

You should be adjusting them no later then 3000 miles

[wayne nichols]

I have a 2008 Cardinal 30RKLE also. about 2 months ago I changed my manual adjust brakes to the forward self adjusting. My Cardinal came with Al-KO T52 axles, Dexter makes a direct replacement for a real good price I got mine for $115 a hub. For anyone not wanting to get dirty or wants a piece of mind its the way to go. This removes the worry that they brakes aren't set right.

[SKnight]

Originally Posted by 97flhtcui

OK, lift each wheel, spin then adjust till it drags then back off till it just barely rubs. Or adjust till it stops spinning then back off till it you can spin again. My 2009 card had self adjusters so I never needed to adjust.

This does the trick. Though, don't trust your self adjusters too much, they keep them close and functional but not optimum.

[97flhtcui]

I was a auto mechanic and did a lot of drum brakes and found the self adjusters do a great job as long as you backed up enough to activate them. On a trailer they work even better because you are spending a lot of time in reverse. That can be confirmed when you pack your wheel bearings every year.

[youroo]

Originally Posted by 97flhtcui

I was a auto mechanic and did a lot of drum brakes and found the self adjusters do a great job as long as you backed up enough to activate them. On a trailer they work even better because you are spending a lot of time in reverse. That can be confirmed when you pack your wheel bearings every year.

Hey now I back up my truck/car a LOT more than our Trailer! We are normally "On the Go" in the Forward Direction!I use the Spin till lock up/then back off Method,to adjust the drum brakes! Youroo!!

[97flhtcui]

This is true but, your trailer only moves when you are camping. Your car or truck probably has disc brakes nowadays and that is trouble free until they wear out. The thing that scares me to death is the new forward adjusters on our cedar creek. I found one of the adjusters in the drum when I did a bearing pack. Looked like it was never attached. Like I said before, every year I pull drums, do a brake inspection and check the adjustment if needed at that time.

[172av8r]

So after reading this I'm thinking I should check the brakes on my new (to me) Roo. The trailer is 2.5 years old.. previous owner went on about a dozen trips per his reporting, and I'm sure he never adjusted them, so I'm guessing they need adjusting?? ( OR do I have self-adjusting?? how do I find that out?)

SO.. I have a couple of questions:

1) what is the best way to jack up the trailer? I have a 2.5 Ton floor jack... do I jack both tires per side at once? or one at a time? where do I place the jack?

2) is adjusting as simple as putting a screwdriver in the hole in the back of the wheel and turning the star wheel? And which way do I turn to tighten?

Thanks,!

[jacknife]

Jack up one wheel at a time . Try to jack up under spring plate . Get a brake adjustment tool at auto shop, they are angled and make it easier. Pull off the little cover if it has one. Use a flashlight you will see a little notched wheel. Put your tool in there and crank upwards . Before you start turb the wheel and listen for a slight dragging sound. Turn wheel yntil shoe is tight against drum (wheel does not move ) then start backing off wheel until you hear and feel only a very slight drag on wheel . Done ! On to the next one.

[SKnight]

Originally Posted by jacknife

Jack up one wheel at a time . Try to jack up under spring plate . Get a brake adjustment tool at auto shop, they are angled and make it easier. Pull off the little cover if it has one. Use a flashlight you will see a little notched wheel. Put your tool in there and crank upwards . Before you start turb the wheel and listen for a slight dragging sound. Turn wheel yntil shoe is tight against drum (wheel does not move ) then start backing off wheel until you hear and feel only a very slight drag on wheel . Done ! On to the next one.

Pretty much. If you have auto adjusters it will only let you turn it one way, if not then if you don't get drag soon in one direction then try the other direction.

[Ree]

DRAGGING BRAKES - HOT DRUMS - DEXTER EZ 4000 AXLES

Two year old V-Lite

We have a Infra-red Laser Temperature Gun [Harbor Freight $19.99] and monitor the tire/hub/brake temps. On one short trip we found the brake drum temps much higher that normal.

Pulling the 4 tires and hubs/drums we found the brake shoes hung up on the backing plates and one magnet arm frozen up. Taking everything apart we found no lubrication on the backing plate - brake shoe contact points. At a minimum, this lubrication is standard operating procedure in any drum brake application. Also, the brake shoes had scraped up the crappy paint on the backing plated causing them to stick.
The combination of rust and built up paint was the direct cause of the hangups.

SOLUTION: Every contact point was power wire brushed down to bare metal and everything cleaned. Pay attention to the contact points on the brake shoes, backing plates and magnet arm as well as pivot points.. All contact points were lubed with Lubriplate 3000 grease. A full assembly and test shows normal temps and no dragging.

Note: Proper brake tools are required and knowledge of drum brake assemblies.

[jacknife]

Just throw tjem away if you can afford it and put on a disc brake kit. About 11,00 to 1, 500 then you will really stop well