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Old 05-14-2012, 08:25 PM   #1
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hot water problem (SOLVED)

i have 2003 35 ft. cardinal 5th wheel on my last trip all hot water faucets stopped flowing. when i went to bed ok. wake up nothing. i turn on faucet and quick spurt then nothing. help please on a place to start. do they have filter screens on hot water faucets? thank you.
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Old 05-14-2012, 08:49 PM   #2
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If you are heating on electric will it switch to gas?
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Old 05-14-2012, 08:55 PM   #3
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i have not tried that yet. no water pressure i dont want to burn it up.
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:16 PM   #4
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Do you have cold water pressure?
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Old 05-14-2012, 10:30 PM   #5
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try lifting lever on pressure relief valve and see if any water comes out. If heater is on water may be hot so don't get burned.
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Old 05-14-2012, 10:47 PM   #6
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The winterizing valve has turned? There is a blockage so no pressure at the HW heater.
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Old 05-15-2012, 05:53 AM   #7
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The filter screens are only on the faucet spout itself. You are leaving alot to guess work here. Do you have cold water pressure? If not check the water pressure valve on the outside of unit. It may have broken or clogged. Maybe someone turned off your water supply (one never knows) to the camper.

Have you looked outside at the water heater? If not maybe the pressusre releaf valve opened up and the water is running out from there.
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Old 05-15-2012, 06:19 AM   #8
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i have cold water pressure at all faucets, pressure relief holding ok, doesn't the winterizing valve just bypass hot water heater? is it possible the brass check valve on hot water leaveing heater is blocked? sorry i did not get back earlier in bed by 9 andup by 5.
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Old 05-15-2012, 06:21 AM   #9
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If you have cold water pressure at faucets but no hot,
go to the water heater and pull the lever on the relief valve near the top
of the tank. Be careful stand back and pull it. If you have plenty of pressure
there in the hot water tank, it's probably a blocked bypass valve.

Try putting all the winterize valves on the water heater in winter position
and then back to summer position. It could be debris blocking one of the
valves- especially if a valve wasn't moved all the way to the summer
position.

One poster here said he found a bad valve. It was broken inside and the
handle moved but it didn't switch the valve inside. That's gonna be a little
tougher to find.

Good luck!
Please post back and tell us what you find.
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Old 05-15-2012, 07:34 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skipper194242 View Post
i have cold water pressure at all faucets, pressure relief holding ok, doesn't the winterizing valve just bypass hot water heater? is it possible the brass check valve on hot water leaveing heater is blocked? sorry i did not get back earlier in bed by 9 andup by 5.
With the use of the word "valve" (singular), that implies that you have a 1 valve winterization setup...which requires a check valve in the line out of the water heater. Since the water flowed OK, and the suddenly stopped flowing, a malfunctioning check valve is a possibility. I would open my hot water faucets, and gently tap on the check valve to see if it frees up. Hitting it too hard could break a line and burn you with hot water, so be careful.
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Old 05-16-2012, 01:18 PM   #11
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thanks for all the help. it turned out to be the check valve. it came to pieces. even though made of brass the internal is plastic and not very rugged. any idea why you have to have switch on gas on for electric elements to work? anyone else have a problem with sewer gas on rear a/c in this model? i did took filter grille off and you can see daylight on return side. two holes in coil case alow it to draw off roof when conditions right. my front a/c has same two holes. patched holes with metal tape time will tell if fixed.
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Old 05-16-2012, 01:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skipper194242 View Post
any idea why you have to have switch on gas on for electric elements to work?
Glad you found the no flow problem.

As far as your question above, we need more info.
Give us your water heater make and model so we can try to answer.

Any dual heat water heaters I have seen were not interconnected.
IE- you could use either gas or electric or both and one did not rely
on the other at all.
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Old 05-16-2012, 02:11 PM   #13
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"any idea why you have to have switch on gas on for electric elements to work?"

This is not true. The AC system is completely seperate from the 12VDC/Propane circuit. It sounds like your AC element is burned up or the AC circuit breaker in the converter panel is tripped.


"anyone else have a problem with sewer gas on rear a/c in this model? I did took filter grille off and you can see daylight on return side. two holes in coil case alow it to draw off roof when conditions right. my front a/c has same two holes. patched holes with metal tape time will tell if fixed."

Sounds like you have a handle on this.
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Old 05-16-2012, 04:42 PM   #14
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i am not sure why yet but 120 volts does not get on elements untill i switch gas switch on. the switch inside for electric heat will not do it by itself. it is a suburban model sw10de serial #021802393. the electric elements get water hot. but the wiring diagram above makes it seem off.
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Old 05-16-2012, 06:25 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skipper194242 View Post
i am not sure why yet but 120 volts does not get on elements untill i switch gas switch on. the switch inside for electric heat will not do it by itself. it is a suburban model sw10de serial #021802393. the electric elements get water hot. but the wiring diagram above makes it seem off.
Here is the manual for your heater. The only way that the AC element can heat the water is if the 120VAC circuit breaker in the power center is on and the black switch outside under the metal cover in on.

The switch inside has nothing to do with the AC water heater system.

So, Let me understand what you are trying to say:
Try this:

1) The AC circuit breaker - ON
2) The back switch outside - ON
3) Inside switch with light - OFF

PRESS BOTH RUBBER circled in the center.
If one goes in and pops right out you have a shorted element and it needs to be replaced.
If one goes in and stays, the hot water has gotten hotter than 120 degrees and popped to avoid scalding.

If both were IN then do this:

Is there 120 Volts AC at the element? (you will need to remove the rubber cover over the high limit switch and the plastic cover over the heating element.

Using a volt meter set for 250 volts place one probe on the high limit switch terminal or (one leg of the element) and the other one to the metal case. It should read approximately 120 volts.

If it does not you have a wiring problem to the heater.
If there is, the element or AC high limit switch is bad.

When you turn on the switch inside the camper you BYPASS the AC element and turn on the propane to heat the water. The water will get hot because of the propane and not the 120VAC.

If none of this makes sense (or more than you want to deal with) you may just need to call the service man.
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Old 05-16-2012, 06:32 PM   #16
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now it makes sense i thought the inside switch was for the electric element & outside switch for burner. thank you. i have no manuals on this rv. bought used 2 years agoit is a 2003 cardinal. i bought factory disc but very generac.
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Old 05-16-2012, 06:45 PM   #17
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There is every manual you will ever need and more on this forum.
You only need to ask. Someone will upload it or point you to it.

The white search box above the menu bar is your VERY best friend. Leave the "radio" button on FRF and use one or two search words and you will get what you need.
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:51 AM   #18
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Quote:
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now it makes sense i thought the inside switch was for the electric element & outside switch for burner. thank you. i have no manuals on this rv. bought used 2 years agoit is a 2003 cardinal. i bought factory disc but very generac.
Nope- it's the other way around.

Outside switch is electric heat
Inside switch (usually with a red light inside) is for gas heat

Note the red light usually just comes on momentarily. Once the burner
fires up the red light in the switch goes out.
If the red light comes on and stays on it usually means the burner has
failed to light.
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