It's 40'9" long with a fair overhang after the rear axle.
Recently, I got on a ferry and scraped my hitch and lost the lower section of my ladder.
I'm thinking of putting a skid wheel on the hitch or swivel skid wheels on the tubular cross bar further back.
I could weld a skid bar onto the hitch but would prefer something that rolls rather than scrapes.
Anyone else done this? Thoughts?
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Les and Bonnie with 4 Leggers Bella and Shelby
2011 Cedar Creek Touring Edition 36RE 3 slide Full Body Paint pushing our 2015 Ram 3500 Laramie 4x4 CCSB SRW - Anderson Ultimate Hitch
My thoughts would be just the singular wheel under the hitch. It's a stubby wheel about 2.5" wide that attaches via a hitch pin. It's the only point that touches now that the lower section of ladder somehow miraculously disappeared.
I would think if I put the two rollers on the tubular cross member, that coming out of a driveway at an angle, that only one wheel would touch and rack(twist) the frame.
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Les and Bonnie with 4 Leggers Bella and Shelby
2011 Cedar Creek Touring Edition 36RE 3 slide Full Body Paint pushing our 2015 Ram 3500 Laramie 4x4 CCSB SRW - Anderson Ultimate Hitch
Wow that is long! We had a similar issue dragging the back bumper but it was due to our truck bed sitting so high and tipping the trailer aft. Our partial solution was to lower the vertical adjustment of our hitch and raise the king pin assy up a couple of inches. We gained about three inches on the bumper clearance. Looking into that lippert correct track alignment kit. Our axle alignment is good, but from what I have read it lifts the trailer by two inches.
Wow that is long! We had a similar issue dragging the back bumper but it was due to our truck bed sitting so high and tipping the trailer aft. Our partial solution was to lower the vertical adjustment of our hitch and raise the king pin assy up a couple of inches. We gained about three inches on the bumper clearance. Looking into that lippert correct track alignment kit. Our axle alignment is good, but from what I have read it lifts the trailer by two inches.
Not necessarily a good idea. While it lifts the trailer it puts way more stress on the spring hangers as they are now longer and will have more leverage which could result in twisting the frame or shearing off the hanger. There have been a couple examples showing this on the internet recently. Not so much a problem with the factory installed kit as they don't extend the hangers. In my opinion Correct Track is pretty worthless for alignment as it only addresses tracking but does nothing for toe or camber adjustments, but that's another topic.
Not necessarily a good idea. While it lifts the trailer it puts way more stress on the spring hangers as they are now longer and will have more leverage which could result in twisting the frame or shearing off the hanger. There have been a couple examples showing this on the internet recently. Not so much a problem with the factory installed kit as they don't extend the hangers. In my opinion Correct Track is pretty worthless for alignment as it only addresses tracking but does nothing for toe or camber adjustments, but that's another topic.
I agree that it will increase some leverage on the spring hangers (basic physics) and that it won't solve toe or camber (that is dependent on the shape and bend of the axle). I do think it would work well in situations where the axles aren't square towards the frame and the tires don't track parallel. The irony is that it is a product marketed to fix out of square situations by the same company who built the trailers and potentially created the issue.
I am not being sarcastic (just researching- bought the kit and am planning on install this spring)... Do you have links specifically to correct track failures? I have searched and cannot find any. I know there are failures from shade tree engineering lift kits where excessive blocks are used, but only two inches IMHO shouldn't create enough force to make a difference. I worry more about the tires that came with the trailer.
I agree that it will increase some leverage on the spring hangers (basic physics) and that it won't solve toe or camber (that is dependent on the shape and bend of the axle). I do think it would work well in situations where the axles aren't square towards the frame and the tires don't track parallel. The irony is that it is a product marketed to fix out of square situations by the same company who built the trailers and potentially created the issue.
I am not being sarcastic (just researching- bought the kit and am planning on install this spring)... Do you have links specifically to correct track failures? I have searched and cannot find any. I know there are failures from shade tree engineering lift kits where excessive blocks are used, but only two inches IMHO shouldn't create enough force to make a difference. I worry more about the tires that came with the trailer.
There was an extensive thread on the Heartland Owners Forum a few months back showing how the frame rails twisted after installing a Correct Track. They suggested using the Mor-Ryde cross braces between the spring hangers or making your own out of some 2" square tubing to help stiffen the spring hangers. Made sense to me. Completely agree with your post regarding tires and how Lippert sells the kit to straighten THEIR frame. My axles were both swayed to the left 3/4" when I brought it to an alignment shop just after I bought it. I don't have a Correct Track. My alignment guy doesn't use them when they come in with one installed anyway. he just aligns it the old fashioned way, like he always did.
It's 40'9" long with a fair overhang after the rear axle.
Recently, I got on a ferry and scraped my hitch and lost the lower section of my ladder.
I'm thinking of putting a skid wheel on the hitch or swivel skid wheels on the tubular cross bar further back.
I could weld a skid bar onto the hitch but would prefer something that rolls rather than scrapes.
Anyone else done this? Thoughts?
My first thought, why didn't they put a third axle on one this long?
When I know I am going to drag I make sure I am square and if I am not perfect the one skid only touches for two or three feet. I will avoid anything that could do damage to my frame. You draw a lot less attention to yourself when you have skid wheels....much quieter! Get some😀😀
A moryde 4000 will give you a inch and 4 inch of travel.They also sell bolt on cross bars to an reduce the trl flex. An Mich rib lt 235-85r 16 will give you another inch and are great tires to boot. Also you can run some bracing across the rear and bolt them to the l beam flange. Which will really help prevent frame twist. An x pattern would be the best . Also a great way to min frame cracks. IMHO
Youroo!! 
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