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Old 08-18-2013, 11:14 PM   #11
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I think i see the confusion. I am looking at the service being 50amp then reduced to 30amp. In that case only one hot leg is passed through. If you are looking at it from the RV end adapting a 50AMP to a 30Amp both hot legs would need to be passed through, not having enough capacity to run what would be available with the full 50AMP.
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:16 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by BarryD0706 View Post
Sorry but I must disagree with that. It is exactly the same as the 220 volt service at your home (although home is a lot more than 50 amps).

Your home wouldn't have to be 2 phases either except for the few 240v appliances you have (if any) except as described below.

In fact, of you try to use "2 - 50 Amp 120 volt legs" (of the same phase) you would be putting 100 amps thru the shared neutral which would be a major overheating problem for the 50-amp wire and connectors in your RV. For this reason, your RV 50-amp service has to be 2 phases (eg, 220v) whenever the combined current in the two legs is more than 50 amps. That's clearly not a problem when you plug into a 30 (or 20) amp outlet, but don't try it with anything over a single-phase 50-amp outlet.
I understand what you are saying, but then you couldn't run a 50 Amp trailer on anything less then 50 Amp 220 service if it truly was 220 volt service. You couldn't run on 30 or 20 Amp which is only 120 service. When plugged into a 30 Amp plug with an adapter, my trailer is only receiving single phase 120 volt service that is split through the 50 Amp breaker in trailer to both bus bars powering the entire trailer. I just have to monitor what I turn on. Nothing in any trailer requires actual 220 volt power even though technically it is there.

I upgraded my last fiver from 30 Amps to 50 Amps because I got tired of blowing the single 30 Amp breaker inside the trailer or on the pedalstal and needed to add more circuits inside. I just replaced the power feed cord and and the power center, but was still able to run on 30 Amps when I had to.
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:23 PM   #13
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Yes, The 50 Amp plug on the campground pedalstal is 50 Amp 240 service, but the any trailer can run limited on 30 Amp 120 service if that is all that is available by converting the trailer side to 30 Amp.

Thanks for all the help from everyone.
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:27 PM   #14
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Just a point of info, you do not have 2 phases in your home. You have a single phase with two outputs, rfd to as a split phase, from the transformer that each provide 60HZ 120VAC power. One is the opposite cycle from the other. You will only find multiple phases in industrial applications.



Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryD0706 View Post
Sorry but I must disagree with that. It is exactly the same as the 220 volt service at your home (although home is a lot more than 50 amps).

Your home wouldn't have to be 2 phases either except for the few 240v appliances you have (if any) except as described below.

In fact, of you try to use "2 - 50 Amp 120 volt legs" (of the same phase) you would be putting 100 amps thru the shared neutral which would be a major overheating problem for the 50-amp wire and connectors in your RV. For this reason, your RV 50-amp service has to be 2 phases (eg, 220v) whenever the combined current in the two legs is more than 50 amps. That's clearly not a problem when you plug into a 30 (or 20) amp outlet, but don't try it with anything over a single-phase 50-amp outlet.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:03 AM   #15
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Sugarbear, I think we're on the same page.

Sherrif1, good point. I still think that two signals reaching their peaks at different times is kinda the definition of two "phases", but it's certainly not like 3-phase 208. "Split phase" it is.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:17 AM   #16
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50 Amp trailer service is not 220 volt - 50 Amp service as most would think even though it is wired that way at the main panel , but rather Qty 2 - 50 Amp 120 volt legs inside the trailer. So the 50 to 30 Amp converter will combine both 120 legs to 1 - 30 Amp circuit allowing everything in the trailer to get power.
50 amp trailer is 240vac, (2) 120 volt legs 180 deg phase rotation from each other (1) neutral and (1) ground.

This creates 240vac when you check hot to hot with a volt meter or 120vac hot to neutral or ground on each hot leg.

Here is a good explanation of a 50 amp service:
http://www.myrv.us/electric/

A 50 amp rv panel is just like a house panel.

If you were to put both hot legs from a 50 amp plug to one leg on a 30 amp adapter bad things would happen.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:32 AM   #17
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If you were to put both hot legs from a 50 amp plug to one leg on a 30 amp adapter bad things would happen.
I see the confusion. It depends on which way the adapter is going. If you're connecting a 50-amp RV to a 30-amp plug, there's one source so you connect both of the 50 hots to it.

If you're powering a 30-amp RV from a 50-amp plug, then you are absolutely right! Only one hot wire can be used.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:42 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryD0706 View Post
I see the confusion. It depends on which way the adapter is going. If you're connecting a 50-amp RV to a 30-amp plug, there's one source so you connect both of the 50 hots to it.

If you're powering a 30-amp RV from a 50-amp plug, then you are absolutely right! Only one hot wire can be used.
That would be correct.

However, none of the 240v appliances would work if you had any. This would not be a common issue. This would be more of an issue in higher end coaches. Ones that may have a full size dryer, or range in them.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:49 AM   #19
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Ok- good stuff. But now, back to the OP's original issue. He/she is getting zapped when touching his camper and it's plugged in.

Bad adapter/power cord is the one suggestion that I see. Any other thoughts?
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:27 AM   #20
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Sounds to me that he has lost the ground or neutral somewhere along the line.

Is the outlet from the house wired proper? has a ground conductor been cut off a plug? Have you lost the neutral and now we have a back feed down the ground. has a plug been wired backwards (Neutral reversed with ground). Do you have a sub panel from your main panel that has been bonded where it should not have been? These things will create an electrical hazard.

Get a multimeter to test the circuit starting at the end of the cord where the trailer is plugged in and remove each part (cords, adapters, other) untill you find the problem.

If you are comming from a standard 120 volt outlet then get a plug tester and test the plug.
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