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Old 06-25-2016, 09:35 AM   #1
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Where do I put Scizzor Jacks?

I have a 2010 Cardinal 3450RL and find it a bit bouncy when set up.
I bought a set of Scizzor jacks but don't know the best place to set them up on the frame. I suspect that being 40' with solid jacks at the front and stabilizers at the rear, there is some flex in the frame.
Do I put them in front of the duals? Behind? Center?

What's your opinion of best placement?
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Les and Bonnie with 4 Leggers Bella and Shelby
2010 Cardinal 3450RL 4 slide Full Body Paint pushing our 2015 Ram 3500 Laramie 4x4 CCSB SRW - Pullrite 2900 Superglide 18k
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Old 06-25-2016, 09:53 AM   #2
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I vote for in rear of the tires. Solid jacks at front are more solid than rear stabilizers.

A set of jacks in front of tires couldn't hurt either. Bounce comes from load on tires.
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Old 06-25-2016, 10:55 AM   #3
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A camper that nice deserves an auto level set up. Toward the rear would work the best in my opinion but not at the rear as they would probably get damaged in a rear drag situation.


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Old 06-25-2016, 01:46 PM   #4
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I put them just in front of the duals this AM. I'll try that for this camping trip. Slides were already out and easier to set up. Made a difference!

I'll try behind the duals next time out before I put the slides out. See which is better.
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Old 06-26-2016, 08:07 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rugersdad View Post
A camper that nice deserves an auto level set up. Toward the rear would work the best in my opinion but not at the rear as they would probably get damaged in a rear drag situation.


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Not "everyone" wants another hydraulic giddy up to worry about.
His unit has REAR stabilizers; just trying to remove some bounce by the tires. Comments are spot on where to place jacks. Looks like he found his sweet spot! 👍
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Old 06-26-2016, 09:19 AM   #6
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I'd love an auto level set up, but for about 5 weeks a year use, find the expense to convert my existing system to auto level would be too much. If we keep this 5er, I'll look at it down the road if we go full timing.

After using the Scizzor jacks ahead of the duals, behind may be better as I still feel some bounce. Although, I may not have the ones in the existing placement cranked up enough. I'm scared to rack the frame.
I do find the rear stabilizers weak. It feels like the motor stops before putting enough pressure to the ground.

More experimentation needed.
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Old 06-26-2016, 09:38 AM   #7
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WARNING: watch those sizzor jacks at RETRACTION. I was distracted and in 2 seconds broke the roll pin. Now operating manually until THE RALLY. Do yourself a BIG FAVOR. Order a T SLOT socket for a drill that you can use in event of failure. Costs $17 shipped to your door. Heck, I like it better than electric operation. With a drill, takes 10 seconds and done! Thank goodness they left out the stupid manually operated hand crank. I might still be under there....live and learn from others experiences!!
PM me for where and how to order. I am out of the house this morning. ��
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Old 06-26-2016, 10:11 AM   #8
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OK,
While we are on topic, I may have broke my roll pin as well. One of my electric jacks does not set after full extension. (When it hits the pad the drive shaft does not spin but the motor does). Also the jack would not extend out on last set up. After I spun it manually it worked with the motor drive.
Any ideas where to start for repair?
I can not find a brand name on the jacks. They are mounted on a new Flagstaff 27 BEWS. They are on one track (bar) that bolts to each side of the under frame. The jack in question appears to have a "gap" between the motor and what looks like a rubber bushing. I believe I can remove the motor and either realign the bushing or replace it. On the right track (no pun intended) here?

Thanks ahead of time..............
RMc
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Old 06-26-2016, 10:47 AM   #9
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Lippert

Go to: www.lci1.com or go to internet and look up Lippert Components; Goshen, IN and seek Customer Service phone number. Once you connect, ask for tech support. They are VERY CONSUMER FRIENDLY.

WRITE YOUR ISSUE DOWN SO YOU CAN ZERO IN ON THE PROBLEM.

Be AWARE: while it is 99.9% they built and supplied your stabizer; they have a crappy schematic on their end to zero in on. Ask me, Mel, how do you know??! They TOLD ME SO!!
I am going to the Rally and this is one of my 3 repair items. So, my temporary aggravation will subside until next time it quits.
Like you, I was ready to tear it down, but WHY?! ( in my case ) let the factory guys repair or replace it.
NOW THE BAD NEWS: To order a new tiny ROLL PIN, they want like $20 for the $3 pin and $17 handling/shipping.
Give them a call and take a nerve relaxer first!
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Old 06-26-2016, 10:59 AM   #10
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Thanks SilverbackMel.
I will start with a search on the net inside enjoying the AC before I go outside and bust some knuckles and sweat out the wrong repair.
Good info. Thanks again.
RMc
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