Home type Frig in RV, Now Questionable

[B and B]

Check the Inverter. There is a GFCI that blows on it causing issues. Also a pair of minimum Group 27 deep cycle batteries or what I did was junk the dealer Group 24 and a pair of 6 Volts trojan T 105 batteries with 4 times the amp hour of the 12 volt batteries.
2 $150 solar panels and a $30 controller. Runs the fridge all day long and all night with no issues in our storage lot.


For the Naysayers the Residential fridge works fine and won't burn your house down like a Norcold will. Had one that was recalled for fire bomb issue when the Ammonia cooling system leaks and goes up in flames.

[B and B]

Originally Posted by formerFR

also, have you compared the prices between 'RV fridges', and regular ones...my goodness!!! I'll stick with a good 'ol household type fridge....

Agreed!! My double door Norcold in my old trailer was $6500 to replace. The Isignia in my new Landmark costs $1100 at Best Buy!

[jimmoore13]

Several have referenced this.
1) Check your battery disconnect switch.
2) Verify that your inverter is feeding the house circuit that powers the fridge without any switching.
3) Ensure your battery(ies) is fully charged on departure.
4) Ensure that the fridge is cold and fully stabilized at temp as fully loaded with supplies before unplugging from shore power. Don't fill it with a bunch of warm beers and groceries right out of the car and expect it to cool all that while on the road.
5) Know that your TV will supply LESS than the power required to run the fridge thru the inverter, and that your battery will drain while on the road. Conventional RV 2-way fridges should run on propane while on the road.
6) Test whether the inverter will power the fridge through a known-to-be-live outlet elsewhere in the coach...run by the inverter.
7) Know that your inverter could be at fault instead of the fridge. Ensure that the inverter output is 120 volts, adequate amps at, say, 1000 watts draw, and that no circuit protection between the inverter and the coach circuits has shut down the power.

Illustration: I bought a new "off brand" (not Honda) 1500 watt inverter generator. It ran and made power. But I put it to the test at home. I ran an extension cord from my over-the-range microwave oven to the generator. The generator should have run the microwave, but it didn't. I returned it and bought another brand (Generac) that ran the micro effortlessly. My assumption is that the INVERTER portion of the generator had a flaw. In other words, an inverter can deliver some power but not its rated power. Check your coach inverter by putting it to a similar test. Whatever its rated output is, load it with a CHALLENGING load like a micro. Don't rely on an electric heater, because simple, resistive loads will draw what's available without whimpering, and the inverter will deliver what it can without whimpering. Unless the heater fails to run altogether, you won't be able to tell if it's working to claimed capacity. Something like a microwave will absolutely require their full, rated startup power to get going...or it will fail or overload the inverter and trigger a fault.

Opinion: IF, AND ONLY IF, you boondock, a residential fridge is a bad choice. Running 120 volt appliances off battery power is not the way to go for boondocking. If you mostly go where there's shore power, the residential fridge is the hot setup. In the boonies, it's a HUGE draw on the battery bank.

Can you overcome it? Sure. Lots of batteries and plenty of solar charging power will do the trick.

But, the difference between the energy storage capacity of a 20 lb propane tank and a 12 volt deep cycle battery is almost immeasurable.
2 x 20 lb propane tanks hold approximately 500 times the energy as a single group 24 12-volt battery. The two propane tanks hold about 80 times as much energy as 4 x 6 volt golf car batteries. A two-way RV fridge is VASTLY SUPERIOR for boondocking...unless you just love the sound of a generator or you can afford to put at least 4x6-volt golf cart batteries in the battery bank and at least 400 watts of solar on the roof (in a sunny area--make that 800 watts in more cloudy areas).

Do your own math: A gallon of propane contains 91,000 BTU. Convert BTU to Kilowatt Hours. Convert Kilowatt Hours to Amp Hours. Assume 9 gallons of propane in two 20 lb tanks combined:
https://www.rapidtables.com/convert/...TU_to_kWh.html
https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/ele...alculator.html
Two tanks of propane contain the energy equivalent of 20,000 AMP HOURS at 12 volts.

The residential fridge is substantially superior technology as long as you're on the grid or you compensate somehow. But don't go off the grid with a conventional factory-equipped RV and expect your fridge to run on a pair of 12 volt group 31s unless you plan to listen to your generator run....a lot.

That's my 2 cents.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by jimmoore13

Several have referenced this.
1) Check your battery disconnect switch.
2) Verify that your inverter is feeding the house circuit that powers the fridge without any switching.
3) Ensure your battery(ies) is fully charged on departure.
4) Ensure that the fridge is cold and fully stabilized at temp as fully loaded with supplies before unplugging from shore power. Don't fill it with a bunch of warm beers and groceries right out of the car and expect it to cool all that while on the road.
5) Know that your TV will supply LESS than the power required to run the fridge thru the inverter, and that your battery will drain while on the road. Conventional RV 2-way fridges should run on propane while on the road.
6) Test whether the inverter will power the fridge through a known-to-be-live outlet elsewhere in the coach...run by the inverter.
7) Know that your inverter could be at fault instead of the fridge. Ensure that the inverter output is 120 volts, adequate amps at, say, 1000 watts draw, and that no circuit protection between the inverter and the coach circuits has shut down the power.

Illustration: I bought a new "off brand" (not Honda) 1500 watt inverter generator. It ran and made power. But I put it to the test at home. I ran an extension cord from my over-the-range microwave oven to the generator. The generator should have run the microwave, but it didn't. I returned it and bought another brand (Generac) that ran the micro effortlessly. My assumption is that the INVERTER portion of the generator had a flaw. In other words, an inverter can deliver some power but not its rated power. Check your coach inverter by putting it to a similar test. Whatever its rated output is, load it with a CHALLENGING load like a micro. Don't rely on an electric heater, because simple, resistive loads will draw what's available without whimpering, and the inverter will deliver what it can without whimpering. Unless the heater fails to run altogether, you won't be able to tell if it's working to claimed capacity. Something like a microwave will absolutely require their full, rated startup power to get going...or it will fail or overload the inverter and trigger a fault.

Opinion: IF, AND ONLY IF, you boondock, a residential fridge is a bad choice. Running 120 volt appliances off battery power is not the way to go for boondocking. If you mostly go where there's shore power, the residential fridge is the hot setup. In the boonies, it's a HUGE draw on the battery bank.

Can you overcome it? Sure. Lots of batteries and plenty of solar charging power will do the trick.

But, the difference between the energy storage capacity of a 20 lb propane tank and a 12 volt deep cycle battery is almost immeasurable.
2 x 20 lb propane tanks hold approximately 500 times the energy as a single group 24 12-volt battery. The two propane tanks hold about 80 times as much energy as 4 x 6 volt golf car batteries. A two-way RV fridge is VASTLY SUPERIOR for boondocking...unless you just love the sound of a generator or you can afford to put at least 4x6-volt golf cart batteries in the battery bank and at least 400 watts of solar on the roof (in a sunny area--make that 800 watts in more cloudy areas).

Do your own math: A gallon of propane contains 91,000 BTU. Convert BTU to Kilowatt Hours. Convert Kilowatt Hours to Amp Hours. Assume 9 gallons of propane in two 20 lb tanks combined:
https://www.rapidtables.com/convert/...TU_to_kWh.html
https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/ele...alculator.html
Two tanks of propane contain the energy equivalent of 20,000 AMP HOURS at 12 volts.

The residential fridge is substantially superior technology as long as you're on the grid or you compensate somehow. But don't go off the grid with a conventional factory-equipped RV and expect your fridge to run on a pair of 12 volt group 31s unless you plan to listen to your generator run....a lot.

That's my 2 cents.

2 cents worth?
jimmore13, your novel length posts are worth at least $1.[emoji23][emoji16][emoji23][emoji16]

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by 5picker

2 cents worth?
jimmore13, your novel length posts are worth at least $1.[emoji23][emoji16][emoji23][emoji16]

Should I send my address, or do you want to transfer via PayPal?

[KEN9XL]

Originally Posted by Jeff from Burlington Ont

I have had a residential fridge in my Heritage Glen for 3 years. we have had over 10k miles and no problems. I love the added size.. Took me a while to catch on to putting the spring loaded bars inside to keep the food from sliding around while traveling.. but now it is perfect

Jeff,

Like you I have a 2017 Heritage Glen 272RL with a residential frig. I also have traveled for three years and some 10,000 plus miles without an issue.

As Kimber stated in message #4, I am also confused. Your post says it has always been plugged into shore power and never been unplugged. Was it cold or light on inside while plugged in? If not, you can not blame inverter. Was temperature control turned up in both frig and freezer?

[bobcre]

Myself I like the option of running on propane or electric would not have a residential in my RV an if I was to buy a new one would tell them the only way I would buy is if they took out the res and put in a electric/propane, but that is me.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by jimmoore13

A two-way RV fridge is VASTLY SUPERIOR for boondocking...unless you just love the sound of a generator or you can afford to put at least 4x6-volt golf cart batteries in the battery bank and at least 400 watts of solar on the roof (in a sunny area--make that 800 watts in more cloudy areas).



Do your own math: A gallon of propane contains 91,000 BTU. Convert BTU to Kilowatt Hours. Convert Kilowatt Hours to Amp Hours. Assume 9 gallons of propane in two 20 lb tanks combined:

https://www.rapidtables.com/convert/...TU_to_kWh.html

https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/ele...alculator.html

Two tanks of propane contain the energy equivalent of 20,000 AMP HOURS at 12 volts.

For me, with a double door Norcold fridge, I go thru a 30 lbs. propane tank a week to run the fridge. I contacted Norcold about it and said that I felt it was excessive. They responded that it is expected propane consumption.

[evil irv]

They do not all fail.
Ours is a Maytag in a new Tiffin Motorhome.
I know many 4-5 yr old res frig that are flawless.
Your repair May be something simple and is covered by warranty.
Keep calling!

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by bobcre

Myself I like the option of running on propane or electric would not have a residential in my RV an if I was to buy a new one would tell them the only way I would buy is if they took out the res and put in a electric/propane, but that is me.

x2!

[TheWolfPaq82]

WOW ! this is not about running out of battery or no power. The OP stated it will not cool as well as it should.

[evil irv]

My Maytag works fine.
Invertor and AGS.
To the best of my knowledge a red frig has never burned down an RV.
I could be wrong but love our red frig.
Solar isn’t that costly if you don’t want a gen.
Shop around.
If res frig does conk out, its about 1/5th the price of a gas/ electric.

[NMWildcat]

Sure it's cheaper, until you actually have to replace it like my father did. Had to remove a slide to get it out. Some folks remove windows. Not cheap.
After doing all the upgrades to his truck charging system, extra batteries, solar, bigger wiring, etc, my Dad got fed up and sold it. Bought one with a two way RV fridge.
His biggest complaint was even with upgraded charging from his truck and 4 batteries, it wouldn't last during a 12 hour drive day, which they did frequently.
Then the damn thing broke down twice, repaired once, then replaced.
And when boondocking, he would have to run his generator pretty much full time.
Big no no items for me when looking at new RVs are residential fridges, solid steps, large Schwintek slides, and lack of auto leveling. Slim pickings these days

Originally Posted by evil irv

My Maytag works fine.
Invertor and AGS.
To the best of my knowledge a red frig has never burned down an RV.
I could be wrong but love our red frig.
Solar isn’t that costly if you don’t want a gen.
Shop around.
If res frig does conk out, its about 1/5th the price of a gas/ electric.

[evil irv]

I agree about getting one out.
That would be tough.
I guess you can convert the propane ones to 12v compressor or so they say.

It is slim picking like you say now days.

[The Newsoms]

Originally Posted by BandJCarm

Two biggest reasons I love my trailer is the Auto Level and the Residential Refrigerator. The Refrigerator has not been off since May, 2016, when we got it. It runs flawlessly. It is on inverter only when in transit, sometimes up to 8 hours. Four 6V batteries and an inverter and it has never lost even one degree.


Some of them are bad, I guess.

Us too!

[Jomo]

I've had mine for two years now no problems. The only thing that I have done was two pieces of velcro attached to the wall next to it.

[dannko]

Originally Posted by SlowrideHD

I absolutely would not have a residential fridge in a camper that I moved around. If it was going to sit on a lot year around with shore power, then fine. They put them in because they are a lot cheaper and bigger than conventional electric/propane models. I'll be glad when that fad runs it's course. Too many problems.

They are in almost every high end rv made. My problem with rv gas/elec fridges are they never work, either freeze or hot. So it's a problem either way.

[dannko]

Originally Posted by evil irv

My Maytag works fine.
Invertor and AGS.
To the best of my knowledge a red frig has never burned down an RV.
I could be wrong but love our red frig.
Solar isn’t that costly if you don’t want a gen.
Shop around.
If res frig does conk out, its about 1/5th the price of a gas/ electric.

My concern is getting a replacement to fit. Though these things are completely repairable.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by dannko

They are in almost every high end rv made. My problem with rv gas/elec fridges are they never work, either freeze or hot. So it's a problem either way.

We've had 2-way and 3-way fridges for the past 30 years and none of them every failed us.
We have always dry camped mainly and never would have a residential fridge.

[Dennis King]

We have an LG 22.5 foot for two years and 17,000 miles!
I am afraid to say no problems because that is what usually happens when you say everything works great! But I do love the extra storage but I know it can be a problem when boondocking!!