A-Frame Aluminum edging warps/roof panel buckled

[OYO]

It's not as bad as it may seem. I replaced our actuator over a year ago with an aftermarket version with almost twice the power as the original. It's been up and down 50+ times without the slightest issue.

The HW versions are a little harder to lift manually 1) because they are bigger and 2) because they are higher off the ground. I can do it myself, but my wife would have a tough time.

I really didn't mean to start another actuator thread. It was more about roof damage. Guess they kinda go together.

[mickrock]

torque if not stopped at the extreme ends, or if something makes it hang,
or basically blocks the movement.


Also, if the top mounting hole is more toward the edge of the right angle,
instead of being close to the center axis of the right angle, a side flexing
will try to "ribbon" that side when torque is applied.

All the same, it's Friday!

[D-mo]

Originally Posted by mickrock

torque if not stopped at the extreme ends, or if something makes it hang,
or basically blocks the movement.


Also, if the top mounting hole is more toward the edge of the right angle,
instead of being close to the center axis of the right angle, a side flexing
will try to "ribbon" that side when torque is applied.

All the same, it's Friday!

yea....like I totally understood that...

dmo

[OYO]

Originally Posted by D-mo

yea....like I totally understood that...

dmo

I think dmo is commenting on a point I tried to make (though not as eloquent as he) regarding pressure exerted on the roof by the actuator when conditions are not ideal. Like things are misaligned, the roof is already fully extended or lowered, trying to raise the roof while latched down. But I'm sure he'll correct me if I'm wrong.

Besides, as he said: it was Friday night.

[mickrock]

was about the placement of the upper mounting hole.
I stated that if the hole is close to the edge of the right angle,
instead of near the angle center axis, then any overload torque
would "ribbon" the side of the right angle.

I couldn't find a pic that showed a detailed top mounting hole,
so I borrowed a gas strut pic to show how the top hole was done for that.

Note that in the pic, the top of the gas strut is mounted close to the angle,
or at the topmost place that it could be mounted. The idea is to maximize
the strength of the right angle and put the mounting point there.

Ok, the pic is of a gas strut, which will not have to apply the torque of an
actuator that is a motor driven unit. But, if the top mounting hole was at
the lower part of that roof panel right angle, it could stress that side of the
right angle.

How can I say that? When I was experimenting with the setup of my drive
unit, I initially put the top hole closer to the bottom. When I tested it, I saw that
the side of the right angle was starting to "ribbon". I immediately stopped
the drive actuator and lowered the drive. The "ribbon" effect straightened
out, and I put a new hole close as I could get it to the center of the right
angle. It works fine, as the torque is applied more to the center axis of the
right angle. Similar to the borrowed pic.

Maybe someone who has had a "ribbon" effect will post a pic of their top
mounting hole, so we can see its placement.

I hope this helps, somewhat.

[OYO]

Wow mickrock. You do rock.

1st - let me apologize for quoting you as dmo.

2nd - around the time of my post I lamented to my wife my desire to understand physics and geometry better (not a joke)

I see what you are saying about the mounting point being away from the "L" of the aluminium edging.

Thanks