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Old 10-04-2011, 11:54 AM   #11
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Location: Hebron, KY
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I too have found the Lynx leveling "legos" plenty good. I thought about the BAL leveling system but usually one block level or two at the most works great. I back the trailer in position , check side to side level, place the blocks, and then pull forward the sort distance onto the blocks. I think it is faster than using the BAL but I speak from ignorance having never used that hardware. I know many here swear by it.

One thing I have found is that you should always put the roof and walls up BEFORE cranking down the stabilizer jacks. I tried it the other way and the frame must have deflected out of level just enough that the wall latches wouldn't all engage correctly. My suggestion, set up the unit before stabilizing.

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Old 10-04-2011, 02:35 PM   #12
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good point hardsider ... this stabilizer before popping up has caused me a few headscratches too ... and i do not crank mine down hard at all ...


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Old 10-04-2011, 05:00 PM   #13
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The only real issue I have with the bal leveler is the cost. I like the idea but at over $80 the lynx Levelers make better sense for me. Lynx Levelers require no tools and cost under $30 for a full set that should level you on any safe grade.

I saw a great write up somewhere on the net of a guy who made his own by cutting up some old stall mats (similar to a truck bed rubber mat). Of course if you had to buy the mat I think the cost comes out a bit high.
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:51 AM   #14
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Location: Murrells Inlet, SC
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I haven't leveled up my new Flagstaff Aframe yet but I did have a Flagstaff pop up, canvas sided type. I glued one small level on the back bumper for side to side and I opened the door and placed a 6" torpedo level on the floor for front to rear leveling, using the tongue jack. For side to side, I carry a 2" x 6" X 8" long piece of treated lumber and another one that is the same except I have two nailed together. I also carry a 1" X 6"" X 8"" block. That gives me the choice of 4 different adjustments. (I tried beveling both ends of both pieces but where I camp it is sandy and the blocks of wood would not stay still and would slide when the camper wheel would start up the bevel.) So, I just use my car's scissors jack, jack up the camper and place the appropriate size block under the lower tire. A bit of work but I couldn't figure out another way. (It's also a cheap way to level the camper.) I plan on using the same technique for my Aframe unless someone comes up with a better method. It also helps if you put a block of wood under the cars scissors jack for stability. The jacks foot alone might sink into the sand. Another thing you can try is digging a hole next to the high sided tire and back into the hole. I have always carried a small folding shovel, what us Army guys used to call an entrenching tool, to adjust the fire in the fire pit and clean the fire pit before I leave the campsite, and you can use that to dig the hole, saving the dirt under the camper to replace when I break camp. SAFETY TIP: When doing all this, I always have the opposite wheel well chocked. I pound the chock in tight with a rubber mallet when I'm either digging or jacking so the camper doesn't move. Leveling front to back can then be done using the camper jack, as we all know. For those of us that have a wheel on the bottom of the camper jack, I use a rubber cup that I bought at Walmart. I put down a 12" X 12" plate, put the rubber cup on top of the plate and lower the camper wheel onto the cup. And when I'm done leveling, I tightly chock the other wheel.
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:33 PM   #15
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I used a 3 ft level in the center of the floor. Once it was level, I glued a circular level on the tongue, squishing it into the glue until it read level.
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Old 02-14-2013, 03:35 AM   #16
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That's a good tip. Of course, the longer the level, the more accurate the reading, and you only have to bring the long level with you once, or level it in your driveway. I use a circular level on my Coleman stove when I set it up on the picnic table. The stove must be perfectly level or all the liquids will always drain to one side, especially for frying.
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Old 02-14-2013, 09:59 AM   #17
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i just use a level app on the iphone, take measurements on the tongue in both directions. not looking for dead on balls accurate, just good enough to be comfortable and ensure proper working of everything. BAL and electric tongue jack make it all relatively easy and straightforward.
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Old 03-27-2013, 12:35 PM   #18
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been camping in popups for 40yrs, i m camping not expecting things to be perfect, use a 2ft level check a couple of place and its done, like the other guy said, its camping not rocket science
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Old 04-04-2013, 12:40 PM   #19
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I use a smaller circular level in the fridge. When it's level there I call it a day.

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