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Old 09-26-2011, 10:11 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thehamguy1
Guess I worried to soon (per my previous post); I think there won't be a problem installing it after all. The RV dealer where I picked up the valve kit had a variety of plastic fittings so I bought a 90 degree elbow and a union like the plastic union that came with the brass valve kit. I should be able to install the valve parallel to the pump body, then reattach the supply tube and inline screen filter at the end of the valve, all without needing any more width than the current configuration takes. I may get a chance to try it tomorrow.

By the way, I've also replaced the incandescent bulbs in the ceiling fixtures with LED bulbs from prudentrver.com. And at IKEA I found some 12V LED strip lights that I'm mounting along the top edges of the sidewalls (inside). They provide indirect lighting. Between the two approaches I hope to have all the light we need and still consume half a watt or less.
This give me hope.

Hey Ham... Wonder if you could start a thread with pics and details on those light mods and sources for parts. DW and I both think the stock incandescent lights are too bright and I recognize the excessive current draw. I'd like some low current draw alternatives for the A126 and sounds like you have it figured out.
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:32 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep4Two
Wonder if you could start a thread with pics and details on those light mods and sources for parts.
I can try. My 5mp photos have been too large for most forums I've joined, but maybe they'll be ok here. That'll have to wait a day or so, though.

For now, the LED replacements for the ceiling lights are item # W9.RV2N. These are 120 lumen "wedge base" LEDs that replace the 120 lumen incandescents. There's a 200 lumen replacement too but we think those would be too bright. As it is, we're thinking we might remove one of them from the fixture over the bed to soften the light in our favorite evening reading area.

The ones I got were $11.98 each, plus $7 shipping for the order. Go to prudentrver.com to order. I ordered ours last Friday afternoon; they arrived in the mail Monday.

I see on the packing slip that these units use 1.75 watts each, so I was way off in my ideas about how much power they use. Still, I'd bet that they're using a quarter of the power the incandescents used. The specs also indicate they'll run on 10v, good to know when boondocking.

The IKEA lights--I'll have to look up the kind they are. They came with a transformer in each set so you can use them on 110, but I cut the transformers off and just wired them straight into the camper's 12v circuit. Nothing's blown up yet...
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Old 09-27-2011, 03:54 PM   #13
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If I can get the photo to load, here's a shot of the pump bypass valve installed. It took about a half-hour, most of that time spent modifying the enclosure around the pump to accommodate the new route for the intake pipe. I'm hoping there are no leaks. Thank goodness it's on the vacuum side of the pump.

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Old 09-27-2011, 04:27 PM   #14
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thanks for this hamguy ... can you give me the part names and sizes of the "extras" you used in the installation .. i plan to do mine when i come back from a fishing trip with the boys ...
A quick question tho ...what is that part that is situated previous to the brass valve- looks to be part to the pump ....

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Old 09-27-2011, 04:54 PM   #15
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Can't give part numbers, my friend. I don't think the RV place uses them. There was just a wall of plastic sacks, each with a specific shape in it. When I said I needed an elbow and a union to fit the valve, the parts lady grabbed the ones I needed almost before I knew it, $3 each. If your valve kit didn't come with a union, get two of them and an elbow. I imagine hardware stores would carry this stuff, I think they're pretty standard plastic plumbing items. Take the valve in with you.

In the photo, starting at the brass valve and moving toward the pump, the first grey plastic item is a union. It's threaded inside at both ends, so you can join two male-threaded fittings together. There are gaskets inside so it will make a watertight joint without a wrench (even though the union is six-sided, which makes one think of wrench tightening, hand tightening will be enough). Next is a 90 degree elbow, threaded on the outside (male threaded) on both ends. Last, and hard to see, is the black plastic union that came with the valve kit. It joins the elbow to the pump. It's pretty much identical to the grey union but slightly shorter. It also has internal gaskets.

Unscrew the pump from the floor. After unscrewing the supply line from the screen filter, next unscrew the filter from the pump. Mine was on VERY tight; I worried I'd break it but it popped loose finally. Then install a union to the pump--I found the black one was best to use there--it's slightly shorter. Then the elbow, the other union, and finally the valve and filter, which I'd preassembled together. The last steps were to screw the supply line back on the filter, reattach the pump to the floor, and reconfigure the enclosure. Voila!
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Old 09-27-2011, 05:00 PM   #16
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Oops. I just realized you may have been asking about the part with the clear plastic cap on it, which came with your pump. It's a screen filter to keep chunks from getting into the pump. The other filter, up under your sink, is a lot finer. The screen filter was originally screwed onto the pump's threads on the input side. Essentially all I did was to put the brass valve between the screen filter and the pump, it just took three plastic pieces to get the job done.
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Old 09-28-2011, 10:51 AM   #17
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great stuff ... thanks much ..

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