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Old 04-21-2016, 05:54 PM   #11
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Haven't done it yet, but an A-Frame makes it easy enough. I normally don't put the stabilizers down when camping, so I probably wouldn't when napping. Find a level parking spot and snooze away.
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Old 04-22-2016, 10:55 AM   #12
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snoozing question

We have snoozed in rest areas with a frame up. Once were told that we could only stay 4 hours. We've even stopped for lunch in several venues with a frame up, too. No problems.

What is the reason for disconnecting elec. from truck?
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Old 04-22-2016, 12:45 PM   #13
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Have done it on occasion. Did not use stabilizers
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Old 04-22-2016, 02:22 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Susan Abendroth View Post

What is the reason for disconnecting elec. from truck?
To prevent the accidental draining of the TV battery. It may not be strictly necessary for a short stop as long as the fridge is not on 12 volts. Just remember to reconnect when doing the safety walkaround before leaving.
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Old 04-22-2016, 04:55 PM   #15
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I wondered about this myself. Great to hear!
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Old 04-22-2016, 05:59 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Susan Abendroth View Post
We have snoozed in rest areas with a frame up. Once were told that we could only stay 4 hours.
I have read several post about Rest Stops and limits that some states impose.
I know some states say rest 4 hrs some say 6 hrs some states even let you rest overnight but most Troopers I read unless you hung out the party lights and sitting by the fire at the rest stop usually would rather have a tired driver rest rather than force them back on the road so most might let a few hours go beyond what the limits post.
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Old 04-23-2016, 08:26 PM   #17
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Picture

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Thanks for the replies, first trip with new camper soon and know times when on the road we will need to catch a nap and not hassle with un hitching the trailer and setting it up outside of a campground and didn't want to add to much tong weight and end up like this.
Attachment 105629
Case of not enough ass!!
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Old 04-29-2016, 09:13 PM   #18
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To prevent the accidental draining of the TV battery. It may not be strictly necessary for a short stop as long as the fridge is not on 12 volts. Just remember to reconnect when doing the safety walkaround before leaving.
Alternatively, use a battery isolator (any kind) to prevent TV battery drain. Unplugging the a-frame from the TV is too much error prone (for me...) and an error WILL occur. Or the TV will be drained and won't start. Or I will forget to replug. Too much trouble while on vacation.

A solenoid isolator cost almost nothing (10 to 20$ from memory). It does not cost a voltage penalty. If it fails, it can be bypasses easily.

jf
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Old 04-30-2016, 09:58 AM   #19
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Alternatively, use a battery isolator (any kind) to prevent TV battery drain. Unplugging the a-frame from the TV is too much error prone (for me...) and an error WILL occur. Or the TV will be drained and won't start. Or I will forget to replug. Too much trouble while on vacation.

A solenoid isolator cost almost nothing (10 to 20$ from memory). It does not cost a voltage penalty. If it fails, it can be bypasses easily.

jf
We had a battery selector/cutoff switch installed on the trailer a red dial that let's you select battery 1 or 2 or both or off. Is that the same as a battery isolator and if so instead of unplugging the tow vehicle you would just dial the batterys to off?
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Old 05-01-2016, 10:11 AM   #20
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We had a battery selector/cutoff switch installed on the trailer a red dial that let's you select battery 1 or 2 or both or off. Is that the same as a battery isolator and if so instead of unplugging the tow vehicle you would just dial the batterys to off?
Hi,

Yes it would do the same thing, I guess, but my point is that the switch must be automatic, not manual.

What I installed is this thing:
Tow Ready - Battery Soleniod

I added this solenoid in my Toyota Venza in series with the wire supplying the +12V to the Aliner. One wire goes to the battery. On wire goes to the trailer. The third wire is connected to accessories, like the +12V socket in the back of the car. The casing of the solenoid is connected to the frame, so the - pole of the batterie.

When the car is turned off, the accessorie is off and the solenoid disconnects the TV and the trailer. That way the trailer cannot drain the starting battery of the TV. When I turn on the car, the accessories goes to +12V, and closes the solenoid contact and the TV can feed power to the trailer. When that happens, the motor is running and I know that the battery of the car is being recharged, so it is OK to recharge the trailer as well.

The only drawback is that if I let the car on accessories only with the engine not running, then the car batterie gets drained into the trailer. I refrain from doing that. In a perfect world, I would connect the control terminal of the solenoid to the ignition signal instead of accessories. That way the current from the TV would flow to the trailer only when the engine is running.

Doing the switching manually like you suggested is prone to 2 errors.
a) forgetting to disconnect when you stop at the grocery store: you drain your vehicule and cannot start the engine. Not funny.
b) disconnecting when you stop at the grocery, but forgetting to turn back on when you leave the grocery parking: you get spoiled food. Furthermore, the emergency brakes work on the trailer battery. So forgetting to turn it back on is REALLY dangerous.

15.95$ really well spend for a solenoid, AFAIK.

jf
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