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Old 05-24-2016, 08:11 PM   #1
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A122S battery charging

I got an A122S that I picked up late in 2015. Only have used it once and ran the lights off of the battery. Not exactly sure about charging the battery. I believe the battery charges while being towed but what about when it is plugged into the 30 amp land line? Does this also charge the battery? Also when I plug it into the land line there is a little fan by the breaker panel that runs. Is this normal?
Thanks Roger
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Old 05-24-2016, 08:49 PM   #2
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Yes, Yes Yes
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:07 PM   #3
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When plugged into shore power the converter will charge the battery. It contains an auto temp controlled fan that runs when high current is being supplied. When you store the"A" for any period of time, you should disconnect the battery if you don't charge it regularly, as there is parasitic draw that will kill the battery. If the TV is set up properly (fuse in panel and relay installed if needed) the TV will help keep a charged battery topped off, but will not charge a depleted battery.
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Old 05-25-2016, 07:24 PM   #4
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A122S battery charging

Roger1984, the battery charges while the camper is being towed. It also charges when it is plugged in, either at the campground or at home in the driveway. But when it is not plugged in to either the towing vehicle or campground/house current, there are all kinds of little current users, what FlyBob calls "parasitic " draws. Many people have put their trailer in the garage unplugged and discovered that the battery goes deader than a doornail from these little LED's on things like the LP gas and smoke alarms, the dial that stays lit on the stereo (unless you remember to shut it off). etc. The only way to avoid this is to disconnect a cable from the battery (I disconnect the negative cable), or install a battery disconnect switch whenever you want to store the trailer for a while.

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Old 05-26-2016, 03:37 AM   #5
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The tow vehicle only provides a trickle charge and would take hours of driving to recharge a low battery.
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Old 05-26-2016, 07:12 AM   #6
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A122S battery charging

Thanks to everybody for the information that you have provided. I am sure I will have a few more questions in the future once I get out with the camper a few time.
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Old 05-26-2016, 04:57 PM   #7
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A voltmeter that is readable to 1/10th of a volt is a real help in diagnosing battery problems.


A full battery in good condition should read at least 12.5 volts after sitting idle for 24 hours.
When camping, a 50% charged battery will read about 12.0 volts (assumes modest A-frame loads).
While charging:
- 13.1 volts means battery is being trickle charged, battery should be fully charged
- 13.6 volts is normal charging for the stock WFCO converter
- 14.1 - 14.4 volts is bulk charge for faster charging when battery is low


If you tow with the fridge on DC, check the camper battery voltage with your fridge and trailering lights on, and the tow vehicle motor running. If the voltage is 13.1 to 13.2, your tow vehicle is only trickle charging your battery. Try running up engine RPM to 1500 to see if you can get a higher voltage. If you get 13.6 volts, you can run the fridge and recharge your camper battery, though not real quickly.


The voltmeter allowed me to find out that my stock WFCO converter would never go into trickle charge mode. It stayed at 13.7 volts, and was over-charging my battery after a while.


just my experiences
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Old 06-03-2016, 06:04 PM   #8
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Dead battery

Thanks for all of this useful info. So, I guess I did a bad thing and just left my A frame in the garage for the last 2 winters without disconnecting the battery. I normally camp without power and, up until now, I haven't had any issues using water pump, lights when needed, etc. Very basic. This last week, although I charged it with my home AC for 3 days, I ran out of juice after only 1 day. I tried jump starting with my car, but that only worked for a few hours. Is my battery fried beyond hope or is there some remedy? Thanks again for all the useful information I find out here!
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Old 06-03-2016, 06:17 PM   #9
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Probably best just to replace it. Batteries don't like being discharged too deeply too often. If you don't want to be replacing batteries every 2 - 3 years, watch your level of charge (try not to bring it down below about 60%), recharge them as soon as possible and keep them charged. A good smart charger is cheaper in the long run than batteries. Just leave it connected in the garage when not in use and forget about it.
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Old 06-03-2016, 06:28 PM   #10
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Thanks so much!

Well, learned a lesson here. Thanks for the reply, raspivey. Any recommendations on what I should buy as far as a replacement battery?
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Old 06-03-2016, 06:45 PM   #11
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I'll message you so we don't hijack the thread.
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:28 PM   #12
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What we did: Our A-frame was bought for long weekend camping in Colorado. We wanted to be able to go for up to 4 nights anytime snow wasn't an issue.

Based on past experience with a PUP dry camping at Lake Tahoe, we knew battery was the 1st thing to run out, and the most difficult to get more of while out camping. So I went for a dual battery install right from the beginning. Calculations were enough battery to run the heater with the thermostat at 55 degrees for 5 hrs/night for the 4 nights without taking the batteries below 50%. We like to camp in the trees pointed whatever way suits us. And winds are a problem for portable solar panels (and awnings) in Colorado. I did not want to bother with lugging and monitoring and fueling and storing and paying for a generator.

Actually, the calcs were conservative. The A-frames hold heat (or cool) a lot better than the canvas walls of a PUP. And there's far less volume to heat or cool. So I am quite comfortable with nights down into the high 20s. Below that, I might start worrying about the water tank freezing.

Due to a number of SPUTs (Stupid Pop-Up Trick) on my part, the two batteries were destroyed in about 15 months. In looking for replacements, I came across 6V golf cart batteries at Costco. These were Interstate batteries, GC-2 232AH, for $150 for two, including tax. I measured carefully - they fit my battery box better than the two size 24 12V (which cost $85 each). So I now have more battery capacity, and for less cost (see pics below).

I installed a battery cut-off switch on the end of the battery box. The wood battery box cover I made because the plastic one disappeared in the winds while driving down the Interstate in Eastern Colorado. One strap is not enough! I now use two bungy cords hooked on eyes in the cover. The last pic also shows the remote for my fridge thermometer. I use a standard Walmart wireless thermometer (less than $10) to monitor my fridge temp while camping.

I am a happy camper.

Fred W
2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
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Old 09-11-2016, 04:58 PM   #13
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Update on earlier post about dead battery

Hello! I thought I'd update everyone on the battery issue I posted a couple months ago on my A-Frame. Might save others some money.... Turns out my battery is just fine - confirmed by the dealer technician - and that I probably inadvertently put the frig on 12v on the way to camp and left it on. That and the fact that fuse was burned out on the pigtail. I have gone on several trips since and everything is ok and no new battery needed. Yay! Thanks to everyone for their insight!
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