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Old 10-21-2012, 09:45 PM   #121
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Originally Posted by thehamguy1
The low point valves are pull-up valves, so gently lift the handles, slowly applying increased pull, until the T-handles pop up. I'm advising caution because it looks to me like one could break off the T-handles by jerking them up. You'll want to open the sink faucet to let some air in the lines while the low point valves are open. There shouldn't be much water coming out by this time after you've already got so much out.

You mention another switch and picture but I don't see that one. Did it get left off your post?
It is the same pic is what I'm talking about and the switch is the T-handles. What is the function of the T-handles when it is set to cross the line and when it is set to parallel? And there is a difference because the water pump stopped pumping when the T-handles is set to parallel the line.

If I pop up the T-handles where will the water go? I assume outside. Is the position of the T-handles important before popping it out?
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:18 PM   #122
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As far as I know there's no way the orientation of the T-handles should affect anything, unless the factory has started using a different kind of valve there. On mine the orientation of the handles doesn't affect anything, only popping them up does. This might be a question your dealer should answer; it certainly puzzles me that your water pump would respond to the handle position. Maybe your rig has twist-type valves after all? In which case I've wasted your time, sorry.
How about we see if others have a better answer?

The water should drain out underneath, as the valves go through the floor. You can see them if you squirm under the camper.
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:34 PM   #123
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Originally Posted by thehamguy1
The water should drain out underneath, as the valves go through the floor. You can see them if you squirm under the camper.
That is what I was expecting, when I twist the T-handle one way and the other way: I lay under the outlet were I could see and touch them and not a drop of water went out. I remember when I had my PDI the guy told me to twist the handles to dump the water and I just believed him.

Maybe draining the tanks, using the water pump and air compressor to push out the water via the faucets left it dry. It seems like in the cross over twist position I felt some air coming out while the air compressor was running but not a drop water, weird.

I hope someone with a 2012 or higher could confirm how the T-handles works. As I said before the T-handles have to be parallel to the line for the water pump to stop pumping in my 2012 A128S.
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Old 10-22-2012, 06:38 PM   #124
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Originally Posted by gregory

I believe the longest our aframe has sat in one position is about 4 months, but we keep our trailers stored inside. Even so, winter weather here in the Midwest US is not extended & extreme like in Canada... Go with your gut on this.

A project to consider is, either this fall or in the spring while your aframe is not in use, remove/bypass the water filter all together.
We take milk jugs of water for coffee and use bottled water (both bought and also filled from home) for drinking. We never installed the filter cartridge anyway.

Gary plumbed a bypass which removed the filter jar. This freed up space under the sink and also eliminated one step of the winterizing process.

In our situation the filter was not used. You may feel, the way you use your water system, filtering the water is necessary.

In case you are interested, here are a couple of photos of his work:
I like that idea to bypass the water filter. I may do that and reference your post for guidance.

My rig will be in my front yard for the next 5 months. I moved it last night from the driveway and I learned some more tips from the parking experience which I'll use next time. It was a challenged getting it there, here is a pic:Click image for larger version

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From street view my hedges blocks my rig, so I should not hear complains from my neighbors

Next steps will be removing the batteries, remove all cushions, remove all supplies like pasta, can goods, rice, and spring water. The fridge is already empty. I'm storing all my camping equipments in the trailer. Cover the tires and trailer. Maybe elevate the tires.

Winterizing Phase Complete, hope it passes my first winter, wish me luck!

Storing Prep Phase here it comes!
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:02 PM   #125
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As long as you are confident that the water lines under the sink are drained. Gary confirms what thehamguy said about pulling straight up on (popping up) the T handles for draining on our 2012 A126. He said they twist very easily, but that doesn't do anything in any postion on ours. Strange...

Anyhoo, your aframe looks unobtrusive in your yard within the hedges. Nice to have it close by so you can check on things over winter if you want to.

I like to leave the drawers and cabinet doors slightly open while in storage. Also, I put our bedclothes and pillows in "space bags" to keep dust off them.

Did you know the refrigerator door lock has a notch that allows the door to be open just a crack for ventilation?

thehamguy has started a thread for storing and covering his aframe. You might get some good ideas and suggestions reading there too.

Deb
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:00 PM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregory
As long as you are confident that the water lines under the sink are drained. Gary confirms what thehamguy said about pulling straight up on (popping up) the T handles for draining on our 2012 A126. He said they twist very easily, but that doesn't do anything in any postion on ours. Strange...
I called FR service and warranty and they confirmed that what I have in my A128S is the twist type to open and close the lower point drains.

Finally my rig is winterrized!
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:18 PM   #127
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Good to know. FR has evidently changed the low point valves. Owners of newer units would probably get pretty frustrated trying to pull up on valves that are made to turn instead.
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:37 PM   #128
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Originally Posted by thehamguy1
Good to know. FR has evidently changed the low point valves. Owners of newer units would probably get pretty frustrated trying to pull up on valves that are made to turn instead.
Yes they did and I could have broken it if I forced it to pop out. In page 3 of this thread, I reported a problem of the water pump keeps going even after I filled up the tanks, the reason for this was shown in the pic I post in page 4 it was in the open position; by turning it closed, the water pump stopped pumping. This was the clue of the change they did. This was a good change or improvement after all.
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Old 10-26-2012, 12:05 AM   #129
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I called FR service to find out where the jack goes for changing the trailer's tire, he said at the rear of the tire on the frame and not the axle.
I also asked FR the tire flat spot issue if I store my trailer for more than 5 months, he said the tires are radials and flat spot will be minimum.
I mentioned to him my plans of elevating the tires by putting jack stands on the frame beside the rear and front of the tires and he said that should be ok.
To eliminate the minimum flat spot issue I have decided to do my plan to elevate the tires. My trailer is now parked on my front yard and will be there for more than 5 months. This is what happen when I was doing the job:
The stabilizers were set and both of them were raised on the side I was jacking up the tire to the height I could set up the jack stands; I also placed the tire covers while they were raised, that was easy. When I lowered the hydraulic jack the tires touched the ground but the stabilizers where still raised by a couple of inches, this means that the trailer's weight are distributed on the tires and on the jack stands. The tires are not 100% elevated but I'm ok with that. I'll take some pic and post my set up later.

Storing Prep almost complete!
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Old 10-26-2012, 03:33 PM   #130
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Here is a pic of the jack stands:
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The trailer's weight is now distributed to the tires and the jack stands.

Now all I have to do is cover the rig, that is coming soon
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