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Old 08-13-2016, 03:25 PM   #1
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A192HW Dinette table mod

When we first bought our Rockwood A192HW A-frame camper, the thing that bothered us the most was the dinette table. After careful consideration, I decided to modify our table. Please note that my wife and I are retired and only the two of us use our camper. This mod may not be for everybody, as noted later.
We had 5 criteria for this project, and managed to get all 5 accomplished:

1. The table had to be easily removable.
2. We had to have enough room for either of us to get into and out of the dinette without moving or sliding the table.
3. We wanted to lower the table to a better usable height.
4. We wanted to eliminate the folding legs.
5. We wanted to shorten table length (amazing what 5-1/4 inches of added floor space does in the A-frame!)
6. We wanted table to stay set up all of the time, even while towing. No more breaking it down and setting it up.

I purchased the following parts:
Sea-Dog : Quality Marine, Industrial and Rigging Hardware
SurFit™ Table Leg & Base System - ITC Marine

I had purchased the ITC SurFit pedestal pole in 29" length and it would have actually raised our table instead of lowering it. Instead of sending it back, I bought a new plastic end cap from ITC, shortened the pole by 1-1/2" to our desired height and glued on the new cap.
I probably should have just bought the 27" pole.

I started by removing the folding legs and cutting 5-1/4" off the end of the table closest to the wall. Then I removed the underside piece of plywood nearest to the wall end. This was replaced by another longer piece of plywood using Gorilla glue and pneumatic staples.

Next on the agenda was to locate where the pedestal floor flange would be cut into the floor. This was done by careful measuring, based on where the pedestal top flange could be mounted on the underside of the table. A small hole was drilled in the floor at the desired flange center location. I made a cardboard template from the floor flange and by lying on my back under the camper, I determined that it had to be moved about 1/4" to make sure that 3 of the flange bolts would go through frame steel and 3 would just be bolted to the wood floor. A 2-1/2" diameter hole was cut throught the floor using a hole saw. The floor flange was bolted through the floor with #12-24 flat head screws, washers and nuts. #10 screws would have worked just as well and are easier to find.
Next a support board was made to mount on the wall. Note that the only place on this wall that is backed up by wood is in the center, about 12" wide. The height of the board on the wall is determined by the height of the pedestal. Note that the pedestal is mounted to plywood under the table top, and I chose to just have the underside of the tabletop sit directly on the board without plywood. I could have had the added piece of plywood go all the way to the wall side of the table to sit on the support board. (And probably should have, figuring the height of the support board would have been easier)!
Once the support board is mounted on the wall at the correct height, the table top can be set in place to mark the mounting holes for the top pedestal flange. Here I used #10 x 1-1/4" flat head sheetmetal screws. At this point I varnished the entire underside of the table top including the cut edge at the back end. Self adhesive craft felt was applied to the cut edge that will contact the wall, and the underside of the top where it sits on the support board.
With the top in place I determined the location of the marine wall brackets. The right angle pieces that mount to the table top have a small locking tab that has to flattened with a hammer or you won't be able to remove the table. I had to add 2 plywood blocks for spacing to accomodate the socket parts of the brackets that mount to the support board. #10 flat head sheetmetal screws were used to mount the brackets. At this point the dinette table mod is done! The table just sits in place under it's own weight and is extremely stable. I added a small stainless steel rope loop and a caribiner under the front of the table to hang a trash bag.

This mod yielded a couple of added bonuses:
Gave us a convenient place to hang a trash bag.
We can now store the porta-potty under the table during the day.

If you need the table to be broken down to form a bed, or if you need to have more than two people use the dinette, this mod may not work well for you.

This took a lot of work in the planning and implementing stages, but we are extremely pleased with how it turned out.
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Old 08-13-2016, 06:21 PM   #2
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Awesome, well done Joe. It will be interesting to see if others will find this mod helpful to their needs. I see, shortening the table top gives you more floor space in front of the table. Couldn't the table top still be used for a single person bed, if needed for a child? Great photos showing your mod. Happy camping, Don.
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Old 08-13-2016, 06:54 PM   #3
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Sure Don, the table can still be used as a single person bed. The original reason to shorten the length of the table was to provide clearance for a person to get in and out of the dinette on the stove side without moving the table. The additional floor space is a plus!
Thanks for your comments.
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Old 01-29-2017, 11:22 AM   #4
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OK Joe,

I have the bases and leg on order. Anything you would do different five months later?

This is an awesome writeup.

Thanks.
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Old 01-29-2017, 12:08 PM   #5
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I have been scratching my head

for the last couple of years, wondering how I could downsize that log of a table.
I have also been looking for a replacement, but did not find any suitable.

Thanks for providing a solution that will work, with a little work.

Great mod and post.
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Old 01-29-2017, 05:03 PM   #6
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Hi OYO
After using this mod for a camping season, we really like it and glad we did it. The only thing I would do differently is to make the long piece of plywood I added to the underside go all the way to the wall end of the table. This would make the height of the wall support board exactly the same height as the pedestal, and it would not require the 2 extra blocks for the stainless steel brackets. Also, the carabiner to hold the trash bag was difficult to use and was replaced with a standard S hook.
Let me know if you have any questions. Happy modding!
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Old 01-29-2017, 05:17 PM   #7
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Hi mickrock
Thanks for the kind words. I can't figure out what I like better, modding the camper or camping!
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Old 01-31-2017, 06:06 PM   #8
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To kickoff the new season,

I activated the Windy Nation actuator, and it ran smooth and sounded like sweet music.

I have parts on order for your table mod, so I took out the existing table.
And, a log it is, at 40 pounds overall.

I have to admit, I do miss my first toy erector set, from over 60 years ago.
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Old 01-31-2017, 06:16 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mickrock View Post
I activated the Windy Nation actuator, and it ran smooth and sounded like sweet music.

I have parts on order for your table mod, so I took out the existing table.
And, a log it is, at 40 pounds overall.

I have to admit, I do miss my first toy erector set, from over 60 years ago.
Oh yeah, it's fun to tinker. And having the time to do so is even better.

After I typed that I flashed back to my tinker toys from '56 or so.
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Old 02-03-2017, 10:05 AM   #10
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Modifying table. I, too, found the table too heavy and too cumbersome. I had three planks cut so a bed could still be used. The planks were made out of finished shelving material. Two are stored under the dinette seats and the third becomes another dinette seat (I made a cushion to go on it). I use two nice foldable "TV" tables as my dining area. I can fold them up and slide them under the bed for storage or I can use them outside. Much easier for me.
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Old 02-03-2017, 04:41 PM   #11
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Got this done today. Surprised how easy it was thanks to Joe's engineering.

Mounted the base pretty much as he did. However I did do the wall support differently.

I just attached a 3/4" x 3/4" strip to the wall. Put a strip of velcro on the top and added velcro to the underside of the table. It seems ok. Certainty simpler, but probably not quite as stable. We'll see over time. But that is pretty much how forest river designed the table's towing position.

If you do the velcro thing don't rely on the peal and stick. Shoot some staples in there (a best practise thing for any velcro project).

I'm running out of mods to do and we don't head south until March 11th. Maybe I'll look into LED running and tail lights.


Thanks again Joe.
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Old 02-03-2017, 06:42 PM   #12
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That's great OYO. I think the velcro will work fine. There are many ways to attach the table to the wall. I just tend to overkill everything!
I am glad you like the mod.
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Old 02-08-2017, 09:05 PM   #13
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Finished up the table mod today,

and it was more work than I expected. This was mostly due to a stereo speaker mounted on
the front wall just under the original table.

So, to lower the table, I had to also shim it back 3/4" for speaker clearance. I did this by using
2 pieces of 3/4" thick wood blocks, about 3 x 6. I also screwed the table brackets to those.
The speaker is now "opened up", and actually has good sound. Big difference.

I used a table leg of 25 1/2" with tapered ends and bases for the table support. So, the height decreased
about 3". I put a small steel shim in the center of the bottom base to keep the table leg from
getting pushed into and stuck tight in the base. It can easily be removed and still used as
a bed returned to original size with an additional cross board. of 6" width.

I cut off about 6" of the length of the table.

I put 3 coats of Minwax Polyshades on the table to strengthen the finish and improve its look.
The original tabletop surface would scratch if a ladybug walked across it.

I used Gorilla glue on the threads of all screws.

The original table had been "knocking" into the front wall, and some buff marks were there
that I touched up with paint stick.

The mod definitely has its benefits, and a bonus is the greatly improved stereo sound!

Thanks to Swampweasel for doing his initial groundwork.
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Old 02-08-2017, 09:53 PM   #14
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Great work Mick!
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Old 02-14-2017, 11:43 AM   #15
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Took some pics today, so,

here is a pic to show that Swampweasel's mod can be done when a speaker
is mounted on the front wall. And, the sound is much improved, as a side benefit.
The front of the table looks bigger than it really is, kind of from the angle effect.

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Old 02-14-2017, 02:42 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mickrock View Post
here is a pic to show that Swampweasel's mod can be done when a speaker
is mounted on the front wall. And, the sound is much improved, as a side benefit.
The front of the table looks bigger than it really is, kind of from the angle effect.

Nice. You make a new table top too?
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Old 02-14-2017, 02:51 PM   #17
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Thanks for the pic mickrock. Well done!
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Old 02-14-2017, 10:10 PM   #18
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Same table top minus a few inches of length,

and plus 3 coats of Minwax Polyshades to add some sheen.

Well worth the work.
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Old 02-16-2018, 07:49 AM   #19
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FYI. I changed my original velcro wall attachment method to the brackets in the OPs original post. I leave the table up while traveling and there was too much vibration using the velcro.
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Old 02-16-2018, 08:55 AM   #20
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Nice OYO.
This table mod is still one of our most favorite mods.
Can't wait for camping season!
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