Battery cut off switch

[ko777]

Before I install my battery back to my A128S this season, I'm planning to put a cut off switch to it. I normally just pull the fuse installed outside before the the battery box. When I put the fuse back I hear sparks, I don't like that because it is close to the front storage box where I store my gas containers. Here is the link of the switch I'm planning to use Princess Auto
I'm not sure if this completely cuts off the power or allow small current through for accessories like the radio. What do you think?

This will make it easier for me to turn off the battery to the trailer and also when I charge the main battery directly with my solar panel.

My trailer is still covered and a foot of snow around it, this time last year I already have it ready for my first trip....

[spierce617]

These may cost a little more but I have been using mine for years with no trouble.
m-Series Mini On-Off Battery Switch with Knob - Red - Blue Sea Systems

Here it is on Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...pf_rd_i=507846

[dcheatwood]

I see yours in many units, but never used it. I installed this one on my last Wildcat. Simple, cheap and never any issues.
Less than $5 at walmart and other places.

[litgrep]

I use the same one as spierce617. No key to keep track of. Works great.

[Ford Idaho]

I think it matters where you put the disconnect switch as to what will be turned off.

If you want everything off disrupt the ground lead.

[ko777]

I just called my store branch and they have it in stock. This switch cuts off the power completely and that is what I want. I plan to have this switch in line with the wires outside the battery wrap with electric tape.

Where do I connect the line? Positive or Negative line?

[ko777]

Originally Posted by Ford Idaho

I think it matters where you put the disconnect switch as to what will be turned off.

If you want everything off disrupt the ground lead.

I just got my answer...negative is it.

[garbonz]

I am not in favor of using the ground lead for the switch, but it would work. Otherwise just use the positive BATTERY cable beore it goes anywhere. If can be selective on what you disconnect, if you want, but then you are kinda disrupting the purpose of the disconnect in the first place, and you battery will draw down over time. If you want to keep the radio hooked up, then at least determine what specific wire is the one that keeps power to the electronic portion of it, and determine how much power it takes. AND then determine how long your battery will hold up to that discharge a .25 amp draw will suck a group 24 battery down to 50% in not much more than a week.

[ko777]

If I want to put a cut off switch inside the trailer, where in the A128S I could find the wire to cut?

Did any one installed a battery meter in their trailer? If yes, how did you connect it? Pics will be great and a link to the type of meter you used will be awesome...

[ko777]

I just ordered this voltmeter from Amazon
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00CDJM...6118077&sr=8-2
I'm planning to attach a lighter plug to the battery, which I'll use to connect the solar panel and/or this voltmeter.

[B47]

Originally Posted by litgrep

I use the same one as spierce617. No key to keep track of. Works great.

The one shown in Ko 777's post #1 is very similar to the one that came factory installed in our 2012 Silverback. The key was attached to the panel with a lanyard - never got loose.

[Pooneil]

Originally Posted by ko777

I just got my answer...negative is it.

I disagree. If the negative is switched off. the breakaway switch cannot energize the brakes. This means you must remember, without fail, to turn the key on every time you move the trailer. It means you cannot have battery switched off when towing, say to prevent the fridge from drawing down the camper's battery.

My preferred location is to cut the positive wire, just after the split to the breakaway switch. You will find the split under the front left of the trailer. Cut it there and run a wire to your switch and back. Alternately, cut the breakaway wire and connect the breakaway directly to the battery from then cut the positive wherever it is convenient.

While it is easy to think that we will just always remember to flip a simple switch, in reality, sometimes we won't. It is easy to think that the breakaway switch is not really needed, but sometimes it is. It is easy to think these won't happen at the same time, but for someone they will.

[pgandw]

Originally Posted by spierce617

These may cost a little more but I have been using mine for years with no trouble.
m-Series Mini On-Off Battery Switch with Knob - Red - Blue Sea Systems

Just took delivery of our new A122 a couple of weeks ago. After discussions with our knowledgeable sales persons, and my experiences with dry camping in a popup and on sailboats, we went with a dual size 24 battery installation. I wanted to go bigger (size 27 or 29), but was convinced not to for the following reasons:

• space for a 2 larger batteries was going to be an issue. 2 size 24 would be much easier to handle (remove for maintenance or replacement) than a single 27 or 29.
• our tow vehicle (Hyundai Entourage minivan) alternator could be an issue with 2 large discharged batteries. Trucks and SUVs with towing rigs have larger alternators than minivans do, but minivans alternators are better than passenger cars.
• 2 batteries give us the flexibility to use 1 at a time, knowing when the 1st one is down we are down to 50%. For this, I need to wire in a 2 battery version of the switch linked to. This also gives the shutoff capability to avoid removing battery connections while the camper sits in the garage.
• best I can figure 2 size 24 will carry us using the heater reasonably (set at 50 degrees or so) while dry camping for a long weekend in the mountains of Colorado - 20-30 degree night lows outside of summer. Can't go too much colder in temp without freezing water tank (or a discharged battery). But I think at those temp ranges, water tank will receive just enough heat transfer through floor to be OK.
• the whole point of the A122 vs another popup was that we no longer do week-long dry camps during the summer as the kids are off to college. For just the 2 of us, the A122 for a couple of nights on a long weekend is fine.

Good discussion and points.

Fred W

[ko777]

Originally Posted by Pooneil

I disagree. If the negative is switched off. the breakaway switch cannot energize the brakes. This means you must remember, without fail, to turn the key on every time you move the trailer. It means you cannot have battery switched off when towing, say to prevent the fridge from drawing down the camper's battery.

Good point, I did once forgot to put the fuse back on one of my trips, I was lucky my TT did not break away. I'll add this to my checklist before taking off: make sure the battery switch is on by turning on/off the front light of the trailer before connecting the 7-pin to the TV.

The purpose of the battery cut off switch for me is when the TT is parked at home or when I'm charging it with solar power connected directly to the battery.

Do you know where to cut off the battery inside the trailer? Install a cut off switch inside, this way I could turn it off easily before sleeping. I will do this exercise during dry camping.

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by ko777

Good point, I did once forgot to put the fuse back on one of my trips, I was lucky my TT did not break away. I'll add this to my checklist before taking off: make sure the battery switch is on by turning on/off the front light of the trailer before connecting the 7-pin to the TV.

The purpose of the battery cut off switch for me is when the TT is parked at home or when I'm charging it with solar power connected directly to the battery.

Do you know where to cut off the battery inside the trailer? Install a cut off switch inside, this way I could turn it off easily before sleeping. I will do this exercise during dry camping.

The same thing would happen it you used the disconnect on the POS side unless you were very careful about where you placed it along the routed wires.

Make a key ring out of one of the switch keys by drilling a hole in the handle, put a slip ring in the hole with the keys to the trailer on it.

A reminder?

[jonrjen]

I went with the knife blade design. It is a good heavy unit with plenty of contract surface to keep the current flowing.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by jonrjen

I went with the knife blade design. It is a good heavy unit with plenty of contract surface to keep the current flowing.

Amazon.com: WirthCo 20108 Battery Doctor Knife Switch for Top Post Batteries: Automotive

My bad, I thought you went with the key type..

[garbonz]

Originally Posted by pgandw

Just took delivery of our new A122 a couple of weeks ago. After discussions with our knowledgeable sales persons, and my experiences with dry camping in a popup and on sailboats, we went with a dual size 24 battery installation. I wanted to go bigger (size 27 or 29), but was convinced not to for the following reasons:

• space for a 2 larger batteries was going to be an issue. 2 size 24 would be much easier to handle (remove for maintenance or replacement) than a single 27 or 29.
• our tow vehicle (Hyundai Entourage minivan) alternator could be an issue with 2 large discharged batteries. Trucks and SUVs with towing rigs have larger alternators than minivans do, but minivans alternators are better than passenger cars.
• 2 batteries give us the flexibility to use 1 at a time, knowing when the 1st one is down we are down to 50%. For this, I need to wire in a 2 battery version of the switch linked to. This also gives the shutoff capability to avoid removing battery connections while the camper sits in the garage.
• best I can figure 2 size 24 will carry us using the heater reasonably (set at 50 degrees or so) while dry camping for a long weekend in the mountains of Colorado - 20-30 degree night lows outside of summer. Can't go too much colder in temp without freezing water tank (or a discharged battery). But I think at those temp ranges, water tank will receive just enough heat transfer through floor to be OK.
• the whole point of the A122 vs another popup was that we no longer do week-long dry camps during the summer as the kids are off to college. For just the 2 of us, the A122 for a couple of nights on a long weekend is fine.

Good discussion and points.

Fred W

One issue to consider is that you never want to draw any battery all the way down, they will not last long. AND Peukart's law says that you will have less usable amps if you separate the batteries, than if you wire the together. SO on balance, I would recommend hooking the two batteries together and getting a good monitor if you are going to drycamp much.

[D-mo]

agree totally with Garbonz, what the point of having a two battery system if you are only going to use one at a time. Double it up .. and dont worry about the alternator ... I have never had any problems with my two deep cycles. Batterys are just receptacles for charge, and do not add any stress or strain on either an alternator or your trailers converter unless you have discharged them over the 50 percent level .. but in that case the batterys would last long in the first place ..

d-mo

[camaraderie]

Ditto...definitely do NOT split this small bank AND get a real battery monitor to insure that you don't discharge this single bank below 12.2 Volts (50%).

You don't have to worry about your alternator in THIS case...but a LARGE battery bank can EASILY overload a standard auto alternator as they are NOT built to deliver their full output on a continuous basis. If I had a 4 battery 6 Volt setup...then I would size up the alternator or split the banks. Otherwise...no worries on ANY standard size batts up to a group 31.