Check your hubs for for grease

[jeffnick]

Originally Posted by pgandw

Warning me of a blow out? How much warning - enough time to get the rig off the highway and stopped before the blow out occurs? Color me skeptical.

As far as a slow leak - yes, TPMS could be helpful in detecting one. But - the recommended TPMS in these forums is a lot more than $50. TPMS in Colorado has a higher than desirable false alarm rate - wide temperature swings in early winter invariably produce TPMS alarms even though tires were properly inflated the day before. The effect is exaggerated by living in the mountains and dropping 2-3K ft to go to work. And my phone charger also sets off the TPMS at the most inopportune times in my minivan. Finally, the local tire dealers insist on replacing the TPMS sensors whenever they mount a tire on the wheel. I read on these forums the hassle of checking air pressure/adding air through a TPMS. And that I need metal stems instead of rubber because of the TPMS sensor weight.

With the reserve capacity of the tires FR put on my A-frame (this is in the A-frame section), I'm not pushing the tires as hard as my dual axle TT brethren. Especially now that ST tires are rated to 75MPH or better. I would rather use the TPMS money and effort on a more likely failure, such as the WFCO converter or the lift motor or even replacing the OEM Castle Rock tires.

For my A-frame, I evaluate TPMS as a nice-to-have, not a necessity. Very similar to an EMS - the cost and hassle vs risk doesn't work out that well for my use of my A-frame. Heresy, I know.

Fred W

You've probably never experienced a slow leak or blow out that eventually shredded the tire and damaged the trailer before it was noticed. I have, on two occasions...and since using TPMS have been warned in plenty of time to prevent complications. I'm a believer.

[pgandw]

Originally Posted by jeffnick

You've probably never experienced a slow leak or blow out that eventually shredded the tire and damaged the trailer before it was noticed. I have, on two occasions...and since using TPMS have been warned in plenty of time to prevent complications. I'm a believer.

You are right - I've never had a blow out or even a slow leak on a trailer.

The closest I've come was driving the Ford Explorer and aluminum skiff from Kodiak Alaska to San Francisco. Stopped to camp for the night in northern BC, I saw the tread peeling on one of the boat trailer tires. Tire did not go flat. We stayed an extra day while I obtained a new tire from Ft Smith.

On my cars, I haven't had a blow out since the early '90s, but I have had slow leaks from picking up nails.

I have noticed that I am lazier about tire pressure and visual checks on cars with TPMS. Before TPMS, I used to check tire pressures at least monthly. I still check the A-frame and TV vehicle tire pressures, along with TV fluids before every trip. And do a bearing heat check during the first stop.

Like I said, because the A-frame tires are loaded to less than 74% of capacity, the tires are not subject to the same stresses and failure rates that bigger TTs seem to have. I'm OK with my choice, as you are with yours.

happy camping
Fred W
2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan

[MR.M]

another EZ lube thread between wheel bearings , tires , tire pressures , threads doesn't anybody get tired of going over the same bs and same arguments ? seems it's at least twice a month .

Pack your wheel bearings by hand , make sure breaks are good and clean , then between full off packing it's ok to muse the ez-lube properly jack up spin wheel and go. just did mine yesterday this was after a full hand pack and new rear seals last fall and around 7000 miles . the grease looked good had to tighten the spindles nuts on 3 of 4 as there was the slightest bit of play . then hook up the ez-lube pump in 11 to 12 squeezes of my grease gun and then i could start seeing some grease coming through the outer bearing and stop . good to go another 7000 before i pull and do a hand pack . there is no one way right or wrong just lots of opinionated people that think they are right and on this forum always right . hahahaha

[dtkunkel]

So, I know this is a total newbie question, and this may not even be the right place to ask, but how can I tell what kind of axles I have on my 2017 surveyor 245bhs? We probably only put about 1k miles a year on it but have not yet repacked the bearings and planned to either do it myself or pay the dealer to do at the end of this season. All help is greatly appreciated.

[Tblt44]

Originally Posted by dtkunkel

So, I know this is a total newbie question, and this may not even be the right place to ask, but how can I tell what kind of axles I have on my 2017 surveyor 245bhs? We probably only put about 1k miles a year on it but have not yet repacked the bearings and planned to either do it myself or pay the dealer to do at the end of this season. All help is greatly appreciated.

Climb under.
May be a sticker still there,

[bill32]

A properly greased trailer wheel bearing doesn't not need to be re-greased for at least 30-40,000 miles, if that. It is all too common for people to over grease trailer wheels that have those "handy" grease fitting on them. The result is over greasing, seals failing and thus brakes not working. Boat trailers are an all together different matter, but even there, unless the wheel seals are old and leaking, thus allowing water to enter when submerged, they seldom need greasing.

[Jboshell1]

Don’t ever assume that they where greased at the time the axel was assembled. It’s like anything made by hand. You never want anything made on a Friday and a Monday. And yes I know not all will understand what I just said. But some will.

[Chuck_S]

Scheduled maintenance for the wheel bearings on every trailer I've owned is 12 months or 12K miles whichever comes first. Clean and re-grease. No exceptions for EasyLube or Bearing Buddies. This appears to be overkill, but overkill always works. I consider the first event to be paramount considering the seemingly indifferent workforce. Dry bearings have been reported.

-- Chuck

[KyDan]

Originally Posted by MR.M

another EZ lube thread between wheel bearings , tires , tire pressures , threads doesn't anybody get tired of going over the same bs and same arguments ? seems it's at least twice a month .

What's old and over discussed to you might be brand new to a new member.
You can always skip or even hit the ignore button on any thread!

Put me in the column with folks who have found at least one wheel with in-adequate grease when new. I've never burned up a bearing but always try to check them within a few thousand miles on a new rig. Once I know they are properly lubed I'm good for as long as I feel like the brakes are good for.
In other words I'm going to pull the wheels to check brakes before I worry about properly lubed bearings.

[pgandw]

Since this is on the A-frame forum, does anybody have a part number/bearing number so I can get a pair of rear seals? I'm feeling like I may want to pull my wheels - the brakes are not working as well as I'd like and the number of reports of improperly lubed bearings from the factory is not comforting. And I'd rather have the seals on hand than trying to chase them after I pull the hub.

Fred W
2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time

[Chuck_S]

Call Forest River with your VIN. I just did this a month ago and got the parts.

The axle is probably a Dexter (or one of their subsidiaries) and will be a Dexter part. The axle will have a label on it so get that data too. Shipping will probably exceed the cost of the seals so order a couple sets and maybe a bearing set for down the road. Get cotter pins as well as they're officially one-time-use although from the looks of mine a couple of weeks ago the looked like they'd been used several times.

One you know the bearing and seal part numbers you may find them at Autozone or similar but I couldn't find a part number on my seals so I called FR with the VIN.

-- Chuck

[spidey1972]

Originally Posted by sundancer330

Do yourself a favor and DONT use the LAZY LUBE system, its like asking a blind man to operate on you. If you pump to much grease in you may blow the rear seal which will fill your drum with grease and cause brake failure or if the bearing is damaged you wont know it unit it fails on your next vacation. A good old fashion pull the bearings, clean, insp, grease and install take less than 20 minutes a wheel with basic tools, easy for any DIYer. Here is a link to a video from Dexter on how to do it right.

https://youtu.be/GnH-h3W9XvI

Ive heard this from many, and heard just as many say they have no issues. Ive done both, and now use the EZ Lube system on my last 2 trailers. No issues ever. Why wouldnt I use a tool installed to make my life easier, then the old way.

Its all personal preference really, for every fail on what you say Lazy Lube, is as many fails as doing it manually.

This back and forth has been on this and other trailer forums for at least a decade. And its only because you think your way is better, thats it

[wabakami]

Originally Posted by KyDan

What's old and over discussed to you might be brand new to a new member.
You can always skip or even hit the ignore button on any thread!

Put me in the column with folks who have found at least one wheel with in-adequate grease when new. I've never burned up a bearing but always try to check them within a few thousand miles on a new rig. Once I know they are properly lubed I'm good for as long as I feel like the brakes are good for.
In other words I'm going to pull the wheels to check brakes before I worry about properly lubed bearings.

X2

Geoff
.