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Old 06-13-2013, 06:58 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by thehamguy1 View Post
And if I forget to pack the drill along I can use the crank handle for the stabilizers, that came with the trailer, since the socket size is the same.
Now that is good design.
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:04 AM   #12
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You will melt down your drill. I killed mine using it on my stabilizer legs in 2 camping trips. I now use a cordless 1/2 in. impact driver. Its mad to take bolts out.
I used a cheap Sears cordless drill to lift the Bal leveler and raise the roof on my Niagara. If that didn't cause a meltdown, then the tongue and stabs on my Aframe don't stand a chance. Particularly with a Ridgid. I would not use an impact driver on the jack for concern of the high sudden torque they can deliver.
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Old 06-13-2013, 12:24 PM   #13
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I'll have to reserve judgement on the meltdown issue. Although the Ryobi is an OK unit, it's certainly no DeWalt or Ridgid. In its favor, though: it's going on 13 years old and I used it for about six years in construction and remodeling work; it hardly slows at all cranking my tongue jack up, not like it does when I drive 4" deck screws into LVL, and; I have a spare one if this one goes.

But I'll keep an ear on it and retire it if it seems to be working too hard. Thanks for the heads-up.
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Old 06-13-2013, 12:49 PM   #14
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Santa brought me a Ryobi 1+ kit for Christmas. It had an 18v cordless drill, cordless air compressor, a charger and two batteries. I've used it countless times. The cordless air compressor is awesome...
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Old 06-13-2013, 12:56 PM   #15
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I've used a B&D that is almost 10yrs old to crank down the stabilizers on the TT. I usually have to set it on the torque setting. Once down I use the hand tool to tighten.

My TT jack crank comes out the front, might have to check if the handle can come off and an adapter made. Guessing it would work for going down but not sure going up would.
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Old 06-13-2013, 01:20 PM   #16
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I've got a used Lippert 3500# I'll take $50 for if someone going to Goshen wants it. Works great, I took it off our 08 Flagstaff 831RLSS when we traded last year. PM me if interested.
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:40 PM   #17
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Switched this morning. Took longer to find the connector nut than to drill the threads and the cross hole. But a 3/4" socket won't work with my 1/2"x13mm connector nut. The 3/4" socket just spun even tho my nut had a 1/2"x13mm label. My 11/64" socket works perfectly tho........

And as recommended, I'll keep the old crank handle with the trailer should it be needed in an emergency.

One other benefit with using the connector nut. It might cut down on trailer theft. I don't think theves will come prepared with the proper tools needed to raise and lower the tongue jack.
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Old 06-14-2013, 05:07 PM   #18
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Switched this morning. Took longer to find the connector nut than to drill the threads and the cross hole. But a 3/4" socket won't work with my 1/2"x13mm connector nut. The 3/4" socket just spun even tho my nut had a 1/2"x13mm label. My 11/64" socket works perfectly tho........
Must be a difference in the manufacturer of the connector nut. Anyway, glad you got it to work. What drill do you have? If you said, I've forgotten...

And I just looked at what I was calling my 3/4" socket, sure enough it's a 13mm socket. Anyway, it fits both the stabilizers and the adapter on the tongue jack, so the exact size is moot. Sorry about the misquote on the size.
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Old 06-14-2013, 05:34 PM   #19
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The last photo shows the 1/2 - 13 coupling nut I bought at Home Depot. This size works for two reasons: 1) the outside of the coupler fits the same socket I use for the stabilizer jack: 3/4" or 13mm. Thus I can do the trailer setup without having to change sockets; 2) the inside diameter (once I drilled out the threads) exactly fits over the crank end of the tongue jack after the handle has been removed.
I tried getting the coupling nut you have in Home Depot Canada and local stores here, they don't have one with a hole. Did you drill the hole yourself? I checked HomeDepot.com, not available there too. If you or anyone know a link to get this part, please post.

My battery drill is not powerful enough to raise the Bal Leveler, did you try your drill for this application?
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Old 06-14-2013, 05:40 PM   #20
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I tried getting the coupling nut you have in Home Depot Canada and local stores here, they don't have one with a hole. Did you drill the hole yourself?
The OP mentioned drilling the sideways hole and drilling out the inside threads.
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