Cordless drill cranks tongue jack just fine!

[ko777]

Originally Posted by rip

The OP mentioned drilling the sideways hole and drilling out the inside threads.

Lol...that's what happen when I speed read and look at pic only. Ok I will buy the nut here and hopefully find a friend that has the tool to drill the hole.

[neil.ervin]

In our Home Depot the CONNECTOR NUTs are not with the other thousands of NUTS. They were along side the THREADED STEEL RODs. Actually only the ends of the steel rods were threaded.

[neil.ervin]

I have an 18v Ryobi cordless drill.

#2 setting is for high speed wood drilling.

I set my drill on #1 setting for slower speed and more torque when I am cranking the tongue jack.

[neil.ervin]

Ain't this just great. 11/64" and 13mm socket sizes are both wrong.........I accept my half of the blame. But then old farts like me are permitted to be wrong.

To me, the best socket fit is 11/16" for the tongue jack and the 3/4" for the stabilizer jacks (according to only me........)

The 18mm socket fits the 1/2"x13mm connector nut more loosely than the 11/16" socket.

And the 18mm socket has a bit more tight fit on the stabilizer jack. The 3/4" socket fits the stabilizer jack perfectly.

I just want to go camping.........Wednesday: off to Lake Kachess in Washington's North Cascades.....

[thehamguy1]

The only thing I can think is that the size of the stabilizer jack shafts is just one more thing that has changed since my A128 was new. Length, tire size, number of steps up, placement of switches, thermostat, radio...all are different now. I should get out of the advice business!

[neil.ervin]

The HamGuy1

I should get out of the advice business!

NO WAY...!!!!!!!!!!!!

I greatly value your ideas/suggestions and I think the AFrame group does too. Keep the ideas coming.

[thehamguy1]

Well, maybe I just need more disclaimers...

[handbuilder]

.... And there I was (blame this on Lee), standing in the aisles of Camping World holding a prepackaged socket that attaches to a drill for the stabilizers and then I stopped and reminded myself to go back and absorb this discussion and photos....and determine if I could slyly relieve my DH of one of his drills. Haha (NOT!)...for now (until then), I'll benefit with the exercise - work off the 'wind flaps' under my arms. LOL
Lee - youve got alot of A Frame experience we can all glean pearls from....disclaimers, schhhlaimers....thanks for sharing!!

[Jeep4Two]

So far I just use the drill in the driveway. Not much room in the jeep for extra gear.

While I setup the DW takes care of the stabs (after I level). So no worries there. She sets up house inside while I finish hooking up power, water and set the aquatainer out for grey water.

So far the tongue jack has been fine and the quick drop during unhitching isn't a bother.

[ko777]

Originally Posted by thehamguy1

And I just looked at what I was calling my 3/4" socket, sure enough it's a 13mm socket. Anyway, it fits both the stabilizers and the adapter on the tongue jack, so the exact size is moot. Sorry about the misquote on the size.

Is this the correct part?http://www.princessauto.com/mobile/p...ductID=3860483
What tool did you use to drill a hole?
What is the spec of your cordless drill in the in-lb of torque?

[neil.ervin]

yes, that is the correct part. replaces the crank handle.

Ryobi does not list torque on their website. I have the P852 drill.

[ko777]

Thanks. I just got this drill on sale 50% off but have to return it because it is not powerful enough to raise the Bal Leveler. It has 330 in/lb torque, maybe double that should be good:

I got the cordless impact drill of the same brand and it has over 1000 in/lb torque, it works but I hate the noise and I can't use it for the stabilizers. With this set up the impact drill should not damage the Bal Leveler:

The universal joint takes the impact, it works but noisy

I wish to bring only 1 drill but I could use the other for backup. Both the new and my old drill should be powerful enough to raise the tongue jack.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by ko777

Thanks. I just got this drill on sale 50% off but have to return it because it is not powerful enough to raise the Bal Leveler. It has 330 in/lb torque, maybe double that should be good:
Attachment 33339
I got the cordless impact drill of the same brand and it has over 1000 in/lb torque,...

Just remember to divide the in/lb by 12 to get ft/lb.

[64c10]

First, thank you Lee for the fresh idea. Now for those having problems finding the same collar that Lee used. Try getting a longer lug nut in the size you need then follow Lee's steps. In my case, it is a 3/4" socket that fits every thing on my 2012 A122BH, including the BAL leveler. To give me a flat spot to drill my hole, I filed down the seat collar on 2 sides then drilled the hole for the same bolt that held on the crank.

[thehamguy1]

A lug nut! Very smart idea. One more thing I did was to get a "wirelock" pin to use instead of the bolt, which will let me change back to the original handle, if necessary, in two shakes of a puppy dog's tail. Or it will allow someone to literally steal the idea without needing a wrench.

[thehamguy1]

Originally Posted by ko777

Is this the correct part?http://www.princessauto.com/mobile/p...ductID=3860483
What tool did you use to drill a hole?
What is the spec of your cordless drill in the in-lb of torque?

I agree with Neil that it appears to be the same size I got. I used my drill press and a good HSS (high-speed steel) drill bit to make the cross hole. I don't recall seeing any specs on the torque of my Ryobi, plus it's going on 13 years old and I bet the specs on the newer ones are different. If you can afford it, get a really good cordless drill and it will quickly become the favorite tool in your shop. And don't get less than an 18v these days. Wish I could afford a 24v one...

Brands? My fav is DeWalt but I can't afford them. Super tools. Others mentioned previously on this thread I've no experience with. The Ryobi has continued to impress me, considering what I've put it through. It was part of a multitool set with a circular saw and reciprocating saw (Sawzall) and all three have been real champs. Ridgid has been mentioned and Home Despot really promotes them. I suspect they'll not disappoint you either. Just my two hundredths of a dollar.

[Pooneil]

Originally Posted by thehamguy1

Ridgid has been mentioned and Home Despot really promotes them. I suspect they'll not disappoint you either.

I can't say a Ridgid is any better or worse than others, but it leveled my Niagara and lifted its roof without any problem. Ridgid is made by Emerson not exclusively for Home Depot, but HD is the only ones that sell consumer tools. Royobi Tools are made by Techtronic Industries of Hong Kong, along with the Milwaukee brand. All the tools are no doubt made in China. A fact that in and of itself is no detriment to quality manufacturing.

[ko777]

Originally Posted by thehamguy1

A lug nut! Very smart idea. One more thing I did was to get a "wirelock" pin to use instead of the bolt, which will let me change back to the original handle, if necessary, in two shakes of a puppy dog's tail. Or it will allow someone to literally steal the idea without needing a wrench.

Is it hard to take out or put on? Maybe taking if off and putting a lock in the hole will add extra security. My friend has the drill press tool and I'll copy your setup, thanks for sharing this idea. I was thinking of getting a power tongue jack and this will be the cheaper replacement.

[thehamguy1]

Tom and "Jas" deserve the credit; I'm just the guy with the drill press. And the two trips to Home Depot to get the right sized nut.


If I don't get to Home Depot at least once a week the manager sends me a get well card.

[ko777]

Lol...is that what I'm looking forward to my retirement, hanging out at Home Depot and a like.