Flagstaff T12rb fridge issue, NOT cool!

[BroncoJoeMisa]

Hi all! Purchased our A-frame in early June and have taken it out once. Last camping trip, the fridge cooled fine before we left while it was plugged into the 120v. We are getting ready to camp again and have had the trailer plugged in since Thursday night. The fridge is not cool at all and does not appear to be working.
Switched it over to gas just a bit ago in hopes that it will cool. Any ideas for why it won't cool while plugged in?

[youroo]

Is it Cool now on propane? Maybe you have a low Battery at the time ? Youroo!!

[Herk7769]

Youroo is correct, a good 12 volt DC power source is required to run the fridge on 120 VAC (shore power) or propane.

If the camper was plugged in the entire time, the fridge should have cooled and remained cool as 12 volt power would have been created from the converter and kept the fridge running with or without the battery installed/connected.

So, assuming the 12 volt lights are working bright and the radio (12VDC) and TV (on 120 VAC) plays, the problem is most likely on the 120 VAC power side of the fridge.

Many times there is not a separate circuit breaker in the power center for the fridge and it is daisy chained off of a GFCI outlet somewhere in the camper.
If the GCFI, or circuit breaker for the line, has opened you will lose your fridge cooling. This is why I ALWAYS stay in "auto" with the propane open.

You never know when something as simple as a brownout or power failure at the campground could happen, or the GFCI pop during a rainstorm.

[daveinpickerington]

I don't believe the fridge in our A-Frames require 12v for propane use.

My fridge did the same thing on my last camping trip. I had to go to propane to get it to cool. It cooled on 120v when I plugged it in a home. I'm not sure what the problem was.

I'm solving my problem with a soon to arrive portable 12v compressor fridge. Dometic Portable Refrigerator/Freezer - Dometic CF-035AC110 - Portable Refrigerators - Camping World

[BroncoJoeMisa]

I have power to other devices. Microwave and radio and lights are all OK. The propane running for 7 hours cooled the refrigerator some. Not enough to actually use as a refrigerator however. Our temps here are over 100. At 7am I switched it back over to 120V and went back to sleep for an hour. Seems to have warmed again so now back to propane. I'll switch to 12V when we hit the road in an hour or so but our first stop will be picking up ice blocks for coolers. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll check back again when we return.

[daveinpickerington]

I have read on different forums that ventilation for these type of fridges is often inadequate. Some individuals put 12v fans at the back to move cooler air on the coils and some also add fans internally.

Google "rv refrigerator cooling issues"

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by daveinpickerington

I don't believe the fridge in our A-Frames require 12v for propane use.

My fridge did the same thing on my last camping trip. I had to go to propane to get it to cool. It cooled on 120v when I plugged it in a home. I'm not sure what the problem was.

I'm solving my problem with a soon to arrive portable 12v compressor fridge. Dometic Portable Refrigerator/Freezer - Dometic CF-035AC110 - Portable Refrigerators - Camping World

How does your solenoid valve open to release the propane without DC power?

[daveinpickerington]

Originally Posted by herk7769

How does your solenoid valve open to release the propane without DC power?

It cannot. Point taken. I overlooked the obvious.

My apologies. I should have done my homework before posting.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by daveinpickerington

It cannot. Point taken. I overlooked the obvious.

My apologies. I should have done my homework before posting.

No worries at all.
My forehead has permanent dents from MY "Doh!" moments.

[handbuilder]

On our walk thru, the service tech impressed on us to carry extra fuses because sometimes fixing a problem on these trailers is as simple as that.

I read the refrigerator trouble shooter guide for my trailer & it says if it fails to work on AC check that the fuse on the AC supply is intact, set to "on", check that thermostat is not set on'0'. If not cold enough it may be because ventilation is inadequate (partial blockage of grills from wire mesh) <-- umm...I did that once.......
ambient temp is too high or the door is not properly closed or the magnetic sealingstrip is defective.

Most importantly, because it is an absorption refrigerator system, if the refrigerator is operated when it is not level and the vehicle is not.moving, liquod ammonia will accumulate in sections of the evaporator tubing. This will slow the circulation of hydrogen and ammonia gas or in severe caes, block it, resulting in a loss ofcooling. Level the vehicle when stopping for more than an hour, otherwise the cooling unit could be permanently damaged due to overheating if left "on".if the vehicle is moving, leveling is not critical as the rolling and pitching motion will pass to either side of level, keeping the liquid ammonia from accumulating in the evaporator tubing.

[Jeep4Two]

This last post has me wondering. Is the trailer good and level (front to back and side to side)?

I didn't think of that.

[BroncoJoeMisa]

Thank you all for the helpful replies. Quick update: fridge worked just fine off the propane for the camping trip. Called the RV dealership when we returned home and they suggested re-setting the GFI/circuit under the table. That did the trick!

[handbuilder]

Yay! Glad to hear it was a simple' no cost no time out' fix! Thanks for the update...I know what I will check first if I notice the same!

[Herk7769]

How about that!
Post number 3 paragraph 4...

[handbuilder]

Haw haw Herk - I dont think you have ever been wrong when troubleshooting for us! You call it every time! I bounce around the various forums to listen in on other topics & tuck away the advice you share...your words truly dont go the wayside!