Flex Seal Brite

[dmtex]

I've developed a leak on the large skylight on my 127TH. I'm thinking of using a spray sealant called Flex Seal Brite (advertised on TV). Has anyone used this product or a similar product? I'll also probably apply additional caulk.

How does the dealer repair these leaks?

I'd like to be able to avoid a dealer repair so any suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks


Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

[B47]

Originally Posted by dmtex

I've developed a leak on the large skylight on my 127TH. I'm thinking of using a spray sealant called Flex Seal Brite (advertised on TV). Has anyone used this product or a similar product? I'll also probably apply additional caulk.

How does the dealer repair these leaks?

I'd like to be able to avoid a dealer repair so any suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks


Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

"But Wait - just pay S&H and we'll include a second tube ..."

Just me,but I don't buy anything from those TV ads - they always want to sell you additional items and once they have your name,they'll bug you for additional products.

FWIW - I found several of the products that are advertised on TV as "only being available on this site" in a store called Bed,Bath & Beyond.

[BigJohnD]

I'd stay away from using the Flex Seal on any RV roof, or its components. One of my brother in laws tried the flex seal, and it looks like crap. I'd stick with Dicor 501 lap sealant, as that's what is more than likely up there. Clean or remove the old, add the new.

[Pooneil]

3M extreme sealing tape. It is made for just this type of application.

[BigJohnD]

Is the skylight cracked and leaking, or is it leaking where it's secured to the roof, as in the flange?

[dmtex]

The skylight itself has no damage so I believe the leak is somewhere around the flange.


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[Kaadk]

There was a recall on some of the skylights last year. My dealer validated mine was fine when I was having some other warranty work done. When I asked about it, they mentioned they were informed of the recall direct from the skylight manufacturer and that it hadn't come through FR so it was possible other FR owners didn't know.

[BigJohnD]

dmtex, I think you'd be fine going with the dicor 501 or clean and eternabond tape the flange. I don't know much about the 3m stuff that Pooneil mentioned, but I reckon that would work too.

[dmtex]

Thanks everyone. I'll use the Dicor product and one of the sealant tapes. I'll also follow up on the recall possibility.

Thanks again


Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by dmtex

I've developed a leak on the large skylight on my 127TH. I'm thinking of using a spray sealant called Flex Seal Brite (advertised on TV). Has anyone used this product or a similar product? I'll also probably apply additional caulk.

How does the dealer repair these leaks?

I'd like to be able to avoid a dealer repair so any suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks


Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

I had a "leak" on a skylight over the shower awhile ago . When I inspected the roof sealant I could find nothing wrong. I dropped the inside 'bubble' and low and behold the shower humidity was leaking past the nonexistent bubble seal inside and condensing on the outer bubble. Would run down past the bolts and looked like a leak. Answer was to run exhaust fan in humid conditions.

[Kaadk]

Originally Posted by VinceU

I had a "leak" on a skylight over the shower awhile ago . When I inspected the roof sealant I could find nothing wrong. I dropped the inside 'bubble' and low and behold the shower humidity was leaking past the nonexistent bubble seal inside and condensing on the outer bubble. Would run down past the bolts and looked like a leak. Answer was to run exhaust fan in humid conditions.

That sounds like the defect the recall was for.

[D-mo]

only go with 3m exteme. We have had this problem a couple of times ... even with the 3m extreme ... the Aframe is back at the dealer getting re-done.
i have also purchased externa-bond tape .. but found it so sticky it was impossible to apply.
First you should find out where the leak is coming from, by removing the inside trim. Your may notice that the caulking is coming loose from this persective, by looking up from the bed/sleeping area and noticing a bit of sunlight coming through the area which is causing the problem. Get a good quality new generation caulk/or adhesive and apply it to the inner line of the window, then caulk around the outside of the window ...then apply 3m extreme to the entire outside ledge of the window ... overlapping 1 inch on the window (covering the rivets) and one inch to the roof. FR has instructions on how to do so as they have now fixed a number of these situations.
Hopefully i will get my trailer back tomorrow ... as this is the 2nd time it has been in for this situation ..

d-mo

[nosaint3]

The shower skylight on my 2013 Trilogy had cracks all around it when I bought it. The dealer put ugly black sealant on the cracks. Didn't see any stop drill holes. I let it go as I had to head south. Requested a new skylight from the factory because of the leaks and they sent one to me. The supposed reason for the cracks was the factory worker screwed it in too tight. Looks like I'm showering outside its so big and clear.

[dmtex]

Examined my large skylight more closely and found the outside left lower corner of the flange was pulling away from the caulk. I also noticed a heavier line of caulk at this corner. This leads me to believe the dealer noticed this leak sometime prior to my purchase and added more caulk. I also removed the interior trim and could see daylight in that corner. I'll seal it further using the Dicor sealant recommended. Will also get a sealing tape. Since I already have the trim removed I think I'll also add a light bead of caulk on the interior side of the skylight. Any thoughts on adding caulk to the interior side?

Since I 'very received so may helpful responses, let me ask another question unrelated to the skylight.

I have the habit of draining my water lines by releasing the low point drains. Opening the drains is easy, but I have difficulty closing the drains. Should be a simple matter of pushing down on the handle, but I find it difficult to push the handle down and it doesn't go down completely. I'll have to keep trying to close until they finally close. I've attached a photo of the drains.

Thanks so much for your response. Everyone has been very helpful.




Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

[Pooneil]

I've had the same difficulty, resulting in dripping at camp under the trailer when the water systems was under pressure. The tech at my dealer suggested a lubricant called elbow grease used in combination with an applicator called better leverage. He said it was better than the arm driven compression tool I had wanted to use. YMMV

[dmtex]

Googled Elbow Grease and found it to be personal lubricant. Surprised me to say the least. Couldn't the find applicator mentioned.


Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

[woodsman]

Got my recall letter. Called dealer. Got appointment and they did great work FREE of charge. They also inspected the roof free. Several months later at a SP a large cone fell on the sky light damaging the new plastic sky light. I got the clear flex-all sealent spray. Did testing, then cleaning, then two coats. A great seal. A year later still good seal. Got can at local store.

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by dmtex;694700
I have the habit of draining my water lines by releasing the low point drains. Opening the drains is easy, but I have difficulty closing the drains. Should be a simple matter of pushing down on the handle, but I find it difficult to push the handle down and it doesn't go down completely. I'll have to keep trying to close until they finally close. I've attached a photo of the drains.

Thanks so much for your response. Everyone has been very helpful.

[ATTACH

62113[/ATTACH]

Appears in the pick there are valves just upstream of these two dump seals, yes?. If so there's your answer. The tee valves are cheap knockoffs of real valves. I'll bet there's an O'ring near the bottom of the stem you have to force into a narrow plastic barrel to provide the seal. If you are have trouble already it won't get better. Go to a hardware store and show the guy the picture. There are a myriad of plastic valves and fittings made, most better than the ones you're showing.


Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

Appears in the pick there are valves just upstream of these two dump seals, yes?. If so there's your answer. The tee valves are cheap knockoffs of real valves. I'll bet there's an O'ring near the bottom of the stem you have to force into a narrow plastic barrel to provide the seal. If you are have trouble already it won't get better. Go to a hardware store and show the guy the picture. There are a myriad of plastic valves and fittings made, most better than the ones you're showing.

[dmtex]

Thanks, good advice


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[Pooneil]

Originally Posted by dmtex

Googled Elbow Grease and found it to be personal lubricant. Surprised me to say the least. Couldn't the find applicator mentioned.

But really, the techs advice was push harder but don't use a hammer. While it might relieve the symptoms it is less than fully satisfactory. If you replace the valves, let us know about the ones you use and how they work out.