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06-27-2016, 05:29 PM
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#1
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TinTeepee
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 8
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Fridge Installation causing problems
I found that the Refrigerator is installed wrong. There is too much space between the cabinet and top of the fridge. The stove, counter and fridge control panel were warm to the touch and the inside of the fridge would heat up to about 50 degrees after it initially cooled down.
The dealer and Rockwood were of no help but tech support at Dometic suggested filling the void with pink insulation. This has helped with the problem. Next I may try to build a wood block between the fridge and cabinet top but this does not look like it can be done without pulling out the fridge which is a big job.
I talked with Forest River and the dealer and they are denying the problem but since the implementation of the fix it is working. It is hard to argue with facts so I am passing this along.
BTW--I looked at two other trailers at a dealers lot and they are installed the same. There is supposed to be a cardboard piece on the back of the fridge as shown in the install manual but apparently Forest River is removing these. I have confirmed with Dometic that they are to be there and are actually labeled "Not packing--Do Not Remove".
The clearance between the top of the fridge and the cabinet top is ideally 0-1/4" according to the Dometic installation manual. The space in our A213HW trailer was between 2 and 3 inches.
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06-28-2016, 02:39 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,083
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The real problem is not the space on top of your fridge, but the lack of airflow at the back of your fridge, and the likely chance that the hot air from the back is getting on top of the fridge.
There are a couple of other recent threads on fridge performance issues right here in the A-frame section. Worthwhile reading.
On the back side of the fridge are 2 heat-producing components - the cooling coils and the "chimney" (where the electric heating coils and propane burner heat the ammonia). Outside air is supposed to come in through the lower vent, and the heated air is supposed to exhaust out the upper vent. Any impediments to this air flow heats the interior of the camper at top of the back of the fridge, and reduces its cooling capacity. The LP exhaust at the top of the flue goes out the exhaust vent and should suck some of the heated air from the cooling coils along with it.
If working properly, you should have heated air coming out of the exhaust vent, and no heated air trapped at the top of the fridge mechanical compartment (or on top of the fridge itself). So first you want to baffle off the space on top of your fridge from the back of fridge to prevent the heated air from getting into there.
The next steps are to direct the heated air out the exhaust vent, either through baffles or fans (or both). Pictures of my Reflectix baffles are shown in another thread in the A-frame section.
Another step to improve efficiency is to install an air circulation fan inside the fridge. 12V computer fans (with at least a manual toggle) are commonly used for these purposes.
Fred W
2014 Rockwood A122 A-Frame
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06-28-2016, 03:13 PM
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#3
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,074
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I'm not saying Dometic is incorrect, nor am I saying what FR is doing during installation is correct. And, I have no doubt your modification has helped but I agree your problem isn't the space above the refrigerator but a lack of airflow.
I have a good six inches of empty space above my refrigerator. (mounted in a slide out)
My unit came from the factory with three crappy fans about 2/3 of the way up to help move air through the compartment. They would kick on and roar about every 15 minutes and run for 10 minutes or so before kicking out. Refrigerator temps struggled to get to 40º.
I added two quality, ball bearing computer fans, one at the bottom blowing up - one at the top blowing out that run anytime the refrigerator is on. They are so quiet you can barely hear them.
With my additional fans, the factory fans no longer come on and I consistently get refrigerator temps at 28º-30º and freezer temps at 0º even WITH the space above the refrigerator.
__________________
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06-28-2016, 08:31 PM
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#4
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TinTeepee
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 8
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I agree in principle but the Dometic 3 cu ft RM23## series is to be installed with 0 to 1/4" top clearance. I am in the process of adding two Noctua 140 mm fans with a 100 deg F thermal switch to help with airflow but it is imperative to not have an area above the fridge to collect the hot air. This was proven by the fact the fridge would get good and cold and then heat up before I filled the space and works well with the space filled with insulation. The fans should further help especially when the sun is beating on the fridge side of the trailer. If the fridge is one of the bigger models and vented through the roof the airspace above is of less importance than when the fridge is vented with two grates--on low, one higher.
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06-29-2016, 07:04 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,770
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TinTeepee, can you give me some more info on the thermal switch and where you bought it?
All the ones I have found locally are ovetemp protection switches for electronics that cut power when they get hot.
__________________
Tom
2012 Rockwood A122S
2008 Toyota Tundra Double Cab 4X4
Former owner of a 2002 Coleman Niagara GTE
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06-29-2016, 07:38 PM
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#6
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TinTeepee
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 8
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Pooneil. I ordered the thermal switch on EBAY. Here's the address
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231113900817
Copy and paste into your browser
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06-30-2016, 08:50 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,770
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Thanks, TinTeepee. I ordered one.
__________________
Tom
2012 Rockwood A122S
2008 Toyota Tundra Double Cab 4X4
Former owner of a 2002 Coleman Niagara GTE
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06-30-2016, 11:35 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Philadelphia PA
Posts: 460
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I am right now having the same problem with my DOMETIC DM2652 that is on my kitchen slide out on my 2015 Palomino Puma 32DBKS. Been to the dealer multiple times, added 2 computer fans and still refrigerator will not go below 42 degrees. The ventilation system appears to have been installed wrong, according to DOMETIC on a slide out application, ventilation begins through the floor with a fan drawing air up into the rear of the fridge, lower vent should be solid with no air ventilation and another fan below the upper vent that has slots for the hot air to exit. My refrigerator has NONE of that. I spoke with Forrest River, supplied Forrest River with the page number from the Dometic ventilation requirements when installed on slide. It is called an "Island Ventilation Application ". Forrest River replied that a rep from. DOMETIC is on the factory floor when the units are built and they know what they are doing. Yep, deny, deny, and when presented with evidence, deny harder.
__________________
Bill & Cindy McKenna
Philadelphia PA
2015 Palomino Puma 32DBKS
2005 Ford Excursion 6 liter Turbo Diesel
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06-30-2016, 11:40 AM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 9,850
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Bill -- Can you post some pictures of your installation?
It would help us know what's going on with your unit, so we could help people in the future.
__________________
Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin!
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06-30-2016, 11:56 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Philadelphia PA
Posts: 460
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Sure, here is my set up. Top picture is of my kitchen slide out with the vents fir the refrigerator. Second picture is of my lower vent, just to the left of my white clip on fan is smaller cpu fan. The third picture shows top vent with a second fan. Last picture is the coils at the top of the freezer section. According to DOMETIC the bottom vent should be a solid cover (Dometic sells it). This is how my unit came from the factory, except my white clip on fan which I was hoping would help with ventilation. It helps a little.
__________________
Bill & Cindy McKenna
Philadelphia PA
2015 Palomino Puma 32DBKS
2005 Ford Excursion 6 liter Turbo Diesel
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06-30-2016, 12:02 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Philadelphia PA
Posts: 460
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I also noticed that in the top vent there was a thin piece of plywood that was ripped off and out or the top vent as evidence of splintered and jagged edge in this lower right side in the picture. My friend had a coachman 2016 Liberty same floor plan and his top vent was 80% covered with plywood and his worked properly. Again, Forrest River says it is not needed.
__________________
Bill & Cindy McKenna
Philadelphia PA
2015 Palomino Puma 32DBKS
2005 Ford Excursion 6 liter Turbo Diesel
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06-30-2016, 02:40 PM
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#12
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 9,850
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It's hard to say without being there, but it looks like it's installed correctly for a slide installation.
You can't have an island installation in that application, because if the vent was through the floor it would be blocked when the slide was in.
I'm not saying that there's not something wrong with the fridge, just that the installation looks correct.
__________________
Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin!
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06-30-2016, 09:54 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Philadelphia PA
Posts: 460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Rambler
It's hard to say without being there, but it looks like it's installed correctly for a slide installation.
You can't have an island installation in that application, because if the vent was through the floor it would be blocked when the slide was in.
I'm not saying that there's not something wrong with the fridge, just that the installation looks correct.
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That makes sense, perhaps the service tech at Dometic misunderstood my question regarding ventilation. I just made an appointment with the dealer to, again look at it and diagnose it. Will keep you updated. Thanks for your help and advice. Happy holiday
__________________
Bill & Cindy McKenna
Philadelphia PA
2015 Palomino Puma 32DBKS
2005 Ford Excursion 6 liter Turbo Diesel
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