Fridge on propane

[DanoHB]

Originally Posted by johnbryanpeters

Don't run it on DC - it uses a lot of current. Mine uses 11 Amperes nominal.

Is it an issue while driving though with a decent alternator? I am upgrading truck and am thinking about getting the 220 Alternator option.

[aceinspp]

Originally Posted by DanoHB

Is it an issue while driving though with a decent alternator? I am upgrading truck and am thinking about getting the 220 Alternator option.

I have always ordered my trucks with the 220 alternator and never have any issues with Frig. Later RJD

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by DanoHB

Ok, so after reading this, and not having my trailer yet until December, does my new Rockwood Ultra Lite have a 3 way or a 2 way fridge? Would love to run it on DC if i can while driving. Propane is not cheap out in SO Cal.

It's a 2 way fridge.

Generally, 3 way fridges are only found in popups, A-frames and truck campers.

Nearly all full size TTs, 5th wheels and motorhomes have 2 way fridges. Some have residential fridges.

3 way fridges are much smaller and have no freezer, just an ice tray. Since they have much less cubic feet to cool, 12v DC power can maintain the temp.

[DanoHB]

Originally Posted by bikendan

It's a 2 way fridge.

Generally, 3 way fridges are only found in popups, A-frames and truck campers.

Nearly all full size TTs, 5th wheels and motorhomes have 2 way fridges. Some have residential fridges.

3 way fridges are much smaller and have no freezer, just an ice tray. Since they have much less cubic feet to cool, 12v DC power can maintain the temp.

Got it. thanks again for the info. i am totally new to all this, and it makes it harder, because i haven't even gotten my trailer yet...lol

[tjwoody]

In some longer tunnels it is illegal to go through operating a propane appliance. It's a safety issue.


2017 A212HW
2016 Ford Explorer TV
The Villages, Florida

Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

[Pooneil]

Originally Posted by tjwoody

In some longer tunnels it is illegal to go through operating a propane appliance. It's a safety issue.

As well as a number of tunnels where camping trailer are restricted altogether because of the propane bottles.

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by tjwoody

In some longer tunnels it is illegal to go through operating a propane appliance. It's a safety issue.


2017 A212HW
2016 Ford Explorer TV
The Villages, Florida

Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

I've only seen this once, on the east coast where most everything is illegal but unenforceable

[MinneweeseMI]

Originally Posted by JArry

I have actually found that simply holding in the igniter button for a few seconds after the successful ignition tends to keep the flame going. I don't know why - maybe the button is somehow connected to the gas flow? Or maybe it's just coincidence.

There is a thermocouple in the flame, it tells the gas valve that there is flame. If you were to quickly ignite, then release the button, the gas would shut off as a safety feature. If you hold the button down, it bypasses the thermocouple until it is heated a bit. Once there is enough heat, the thermocouple tells the gas it's okay to keep flowing.

If you start your fridge, then turn it off, if you listen carefully, you might hear the gas shut-off make a tiny click. It usually takes about 30 seconds when I play with it. That's the thermocouple telling the gas valve there is no flame.

As a side note, we have had the flame blow out during very windy weather, the gas will continue to flow and it generally sets off our propane alarm. At least that's my theory. I also have it blow out while we are towing, so now I use the 12v while driving.

[Jaydubya81]

My 3 way has a freezer


2015 rockwood 194A HW.

[johnbryanpeters]

Originally Posted by Jaydubya81

My 3 way has a freezer


2015 rockwood 194A HW.

As does the Dometic RM8501 in my R-Pod RPT-171.

[SidecarFlip]

Originally Posted by bikendan

It's a 2 way fridge.

Generally, 3 way fridges are only found in popups, A-frames and truck campers.

Nearly all full size TTs, 5th wheels and motorhomes have 2 way fridges. Some have residential fridges.

3 way fridges are much smaller and have no freezer, just an ice tray. Since they have much less cubic feet to cool, 12v DC power can maintain the temp.

Hey Dan...

My Dometic 3 way in my TC has a freezer... In fact, in the hard sided Palomino TC's you can opt for a double door 3 way with separate freezer and ice maker and or a compressor fridge.

IMO, the absolute best way to increase the efficiency of any absorbtion refrigerator is to add an exhaust fan (or fans) in the upper vent area and duct the airflow across the upper external condenser.

[youroo]

Originally Posted by DanoHB

Got it. thanks again for the info. i am totally new to all this, and it makes it harder, because i haven't even gotten my trailer yet...lol

If as you stated "all the options " you have a 2 way frig! Unless they / You install a "Residential "! Youroo! !

[JArry]

Originally Posted by MinneweeseMI

There is a thermocouple in the flame, it tells the gas valve that there is flame. If you were to quickly ignite, then release the button, the gas would shut off as a safety feature. If you hold the button down, it bypasses the thermocouple until it is heated a bit. Once there is enough heat, the thermocouple tells the gas it's okay to keep flowing.

If you start your fridge, then turn it off, if you listen carefully, you might hear the gas shut-off make a tiny click. It usually takes about 30 seconds when I play with it. That's the thermocouple telling the gas valve there is no flame.

As a side note, we have had the flame blow out during very windy weather, the gas will continue to flow and it generally sets off our propane alarm. At least that's my theory. I also have it blow out while we are towing, so now I use the 12v while driving.

Ahh, that makes sense. Thanks! Maybe this is explained in the instructions and I never read them, thinking I knew what I was doing.

For the record, I also run it on 12V while driving because I never had a reason not to, and because the dealer told me, probably falsely, that it is illegal to run on propane in MI while moving/driving.

[pgandw]

The thermocouple is connected to the gas valve "switch" - the one that says on and off. Pushing in this switch while lighting bypasses the thermocouple. For the reasons already given, that switch should continue to be pushed in for 30 seconds after lighting the fridge.

The igniter is a one push peizio igniter to create a spark at the fridge burner (very similar to many lower end propane grills). It creates one spark per push of the button. That is why is recommended to push the igniter button immediately after a "poof" where the flame blows itself out (not uncommon at high altitude). Because the flame blew itself out, there is residual gas at the burner that will readily light if another spark is created right away.

Since I learned this trick, I have had very few problems starting the fridge (usually 2 quick pushes of the igniter with a "poof" on the 1st push) at altitudes from 6,000 - 8,000 ft (we haven't camped higher yet).

Our fridge will blow out while driving - I tried it twice on a 6 hour drive from Panhandle Texas to Colorado Springs. So I use DC while towing. I did check, and I am seeing 13.2 to 13.7 volts at the camper with fridge on DC, and running lights on with tow vehicle running. So I am satisfied that I will not run my camper batteries down while towing with fridge on DC. But not all tow vehicles have wiring as robust as mine. And I did change out the camper tail lights for LEDs (another 1.2 amp reduction). Eventually, I will change all the running lights out for LEDs.

Fred W
2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan

[JArry]

Originally Posted by pgandw

The thermocouple is connected to the gas valve "switch" - the one that says on and off. Pushing in this switch while lighting bypasses the thermocouple. For the reasons already given, that switch should continue to be pushed in for 30 seconds after lighting the fridge.

The igniter is a one push peizio igniter to create a spark at the fridge burner (very similar to many lower end propane grills). It creates one spark per push of the button. That is why is recommended to push the igniter button immediately after a "poof" where the flame blows itself out (not uncommon at high altitude). Because the flame blew itself out, there is residual gas at the burner that will readily light if another spark is created right away.

Since I learned this trick, I have had very few problems starting the fridge (usually 2 quick pushes of the igniter with a "poof" on the 1st push) at altitudes from 6,000 - 8,000 ft (we haven't camped higher yet).

Now I'm confused. Above I was referring to continuing to hold down the igniter (piezo) button/plunger after the spark - NOT the gas valve knob/button, which I had already been holding down (turned to the full open ignition position). So is the piezo igniter connected to anything else, or is it an entirely self-contained mechanism? As I said earlier, it may have just been coincidence that holding the igniter down seemed to have some effect.

[MinneweeseMI]

Originally Posted by JArry

Now I'm confused. Above I was referring to continuing to hold down the igniter (piezo) button/plunger after the spark - NOT the gas valve knob/button, which I had already been holding down (turned to the full open ignition position). So is the piezo igniter connected to anything else, or is it an entirely self-contained mechanism? As I said earlier, it may have just been coincidence that holding the igniter down seemed to have some effect.

In this case, I think it would be a co-inky-dink. The piezo just fires one shot and it's done. It's self-contained. In fact, I cannibalized an old camp stove and took the ignitors out and put them in the three-burner range inside the trailer!

One last note, here's what my flame looks like when it's working properly:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...up-119763.html

I had a problem with some soot and could never find our what a good flame was supposed to look like.

Cheers!