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Old 09-28-2012, 11:10 AM   #11
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Just checked outside. The 20amp fuse by the propane is fine. Can't find one outside in either of the fridge panels. I will keep trying and let you all know.
Thanks to everyone for helping out this rookie. Rookie with all conveniences, that is. Previous camper was a Kamparoo with no ammenities.
I don't think the microwave runs on 12v. While there are no labels telling what each fuse is for, there are labels indicating what amperage they should be.
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Old 09-28-2012, 11:28 AM   #12
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Solved. #6 apparently controls, at least, stereo, lights, ceiling fan. This was a fuse that was giving me fits. Replaced it and, so far, all is well.
Thanks for the tip about not having fridge on 12v when connected to 'shore' power. What?? are we sailors?
Again, can't thank you all enough. I am sure I will be back.
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Old 09-28-2012, 07:33 PM   #13
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ok just turned every thing on and pulled fuse's one at time, as numbered

12 volt
F1 10 amp water pump
F2 10 amp thermostat control
F3 15 amp co/propane detector
F4 10 amp inside lights and ceiling fan
F5 20 amp fridge
F6 20 amp radio
at the bottom is a 40 amp listed as reverse battery protection
red lights by fuse light when fuse is blown and item is on

120 volt
main 30 amp
B1 15 amp 110 outlets
B2 15 amp microwave
B3 20 amp Air Conditioner

hope this helps
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:44 PM   #14
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When you lose DC power is also helpful to check the in-line fuse at the battery, It corrodes over time/moisture- a simple fix.
Anne
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:08 PM   #15
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There is a learning curve to all this stuff, but coming from no amenities to the A-frame is going to be great fun for you. You can keep your battery charged on household current or other trickle charger when stored. The detectors and converter do use battery even when stored unless you disconnect the battery.Just remember you cannot operate the A/C, heated mattress or microwave on battery or on your household current. They require the 30 amp provided at campgrounds. Be sure you get a plug to convert your 30 amp plug to 50 amp hookups just in case your site only has 50 available.Use only one power source for the frig, propane is most efficient and will run almost forever on one tank- coldest spot is on the bottom/milk will get icy if set to high cold. Battery is least efficient. The furnace will use up your propane if on more than approx 8 hours. Avoid frying food inside to avoid getting greasy film on the inside of the camper eventually. The water pump is only needed when using your stored water/not when connected to campground source. Keep a small supply of various fuses just in case.........have fun! I live in Florida with two Dobermans that love to camp- especially in colder climates!! Anne
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:55 PM   #16
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Just a few days ago the problem with blowing the inside light fuse was solved. The wires for the lights come up thru the frame (for want of a better word) at the drivers side front corner. The wires connect to a switch that will turn off the lights, if left on, when the top comes down.
One wire was bare and when I put the 110 power on it blew the fuse. I taped it up and it appears to be OK. No idea why there is no rubber grommet in the hole.
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Old 07-02-2013, 04:41 PM   #17
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What type of fuses do I need to buy for replacements? I have a 2014 rockwood a122bh.
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Old 07-02-2013, 04:52 PM   #18
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Pretty standard car fuses. Just check the panel to see what you have there. Sometimes A Frames are wired a bit different. My fuses seem to control different things than others.
The one I have been having trouble with is the one that controls lights on 12V.
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Old 07-02-2013, 04:53 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RascalRv View Post
What type of fuses do I need to buy for replacements? I have a 2014 rockwood a122bh.
Ato automotive fuse.
Mostly 15amp

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Old 07-02-2013, 05:40 PM   #20
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Here is the converter fuse panel on my A122S. Your's should be identical


Fuse Panel by b2220128, on Flickr

These are standard automotive blade fuses. Just take one to a parts store and they will fix you up.
10X3
15X1
20X1
30X1
40X1
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