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Old 10-01-2018, 11:46 AM   #1
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Gas Struts

I searched Gas Struts for this forum and got everything from propane bottles to steps so I'm not certain how organized the topics are. I apologize for asking a simple question that may have been answered but I can't get any response from Forest River. I have the A Frame A215 FKHW and it has the ele lift. I'd like to know two answers. First if it fails can the actuator rod assembly be taken off and simply raise the roof by hand; and, secondly is there a gas strut that can be put on in lieu of the ele actuator like are found on the front roof (there are many) and just do away with the ele. system. I'm concerned that on a camping trip this ele lift system may fail. It sounds like me getting up out of bed some mornings. Like it might break under the pressure it sounds like it is under.


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Old 10-01-2018, 01:07 PM   #2
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Look under 2017 213HW Roof Repair
I have posted my story about the trouble I have had and the repairs Forest River made under warranty. My original lift finally did go out this summer and FR sent me a new one that seemed to a lot better than the factory installed one. I removed the lift and manually raise and lower the roof. Is a lot faster that way and not all too difficult. I use a 6 ft. shovel handle from Menards with a rubber bumper on the end. The two struts that where put on so far have done a pretty good job but that roof is heavy, for an old man like me with two bad shoulders.
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Old 10-01-2018, 08:22 PM   #3
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Would have to find a strut with the same length travel as the electric one.

The actuator is held on by two nuts and very easy to remove. The new models even have quick release wiring from the outside of the camper.

I have a t21dmhw and cannot lift the roof by myself, however, I've been using the electric actuator for 2.5 years and just replaced it with the new model. Over the years it did slow down but still allowed me to open the roof with a little help from me. The new motor hasn't had any issues... (knock on wood it doesn't)
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Old 10-08-2018, 12:55 PM   #4
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I pulled all that crap off and raise and lower by hand, very easy to do. I saw to many where the electric lift bent the heck out of the aluminum where it attached to the roof and made a real mess.
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Old 10-21-2018, 10:37 AM   #5
OYO
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Two-part post:

1) My Windy Nation actuator died last week. Two years and a bunch of actuating. Thing is, the motor didn't burn up, the gear stripped. I noticed it was getting slower and that the roof frame was buckling a bit when raising. I'm thinking the torsion springs are getting weak or loosened up causing the actuator to overwork.

2) We didn't have too much trouble lifting, but it sure came down in a hurry. I'm considering backpacker3's gas struts. I've used them in several other projects and am comfortable doing it.

So. Questions for backpacker3: you said they installed "two 36 inch 60 pound gas assist struts on the front roof". And later you said "so far have done a pretty good job", maybe implying it could be better. I'm old too, and it ain't gonna get any easier.

1) Is it worth doing?

2) They make a 36" 120 lb version. Do you think that's too much? I use 120 lb on our bed lift. Seems the roof would be a lot heavier. I guess the issue could be difficulty getting them to close.

Thanks
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Old 10-21-2018, 12:40 PM   #6
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So far the struts have held up well this summer. Did over 30 days camping and all went well. At the time that I had the struts installed I also thought that 100 to 120 pounds would be better than 60 pounds but the tech who installed them said that if you have too much resistance when closing, you would put more pressure on the brackets when closing the roof and make the roof harder to close the last foot or so. After thinking about it, I agreed with him and he then said to try the 60 pound struts and if I'am not happy with them, he would replace them with 100 pound struts. So far I am very pleased with the install of the 60 pound struts and they have been working very well. When I open the roof, the front section with the struts go up about 3- 4 feet, I stand inside the camper door which is in the down position, and push up the rear roof section some and then use a 6 foot long shovel handle with a rubber cap to push up the roof and engage the front section locking them in place. When lowering, I stand inside the door again with the sides down and push up on the roof to disengage the two sections, being careful not to get bonked in the head but so far so good. I keep an eye on the brackets of the struts to make sure they are holding and realize that eventually, the struts will leak and fail but they all do sooner or later. In my opinion, the struts are worth it, makes raising and lowering manageably without the electric lift which is in the storage bin and there it will stay.
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