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Old 10-08-2011, 10:53 AM   #1
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Generators and the A-Frame

Has anyone done any testing or research on what size generator is required to run the A/C/Heatpump on the Hard Side trailers?

I have a nice larger Cummins inverter generator (bought through Costco 3200 w peak, 2900 w continuous)that was purchased when I had a larger trailer so that I could run the A/C when boondocking.



This thing is HEAVY ( 130 lbs) and it is all I can do to get it in and out of the back of my pick-up without a serious back injury. I hauled the thing all the way to Montana and back but never even used it because it was a hassle to set up. I would have loved to run my microwave and charge my battery in Yellowstone while dry camping.

I was considering a smaller generator but wanted to know what others have been able to use successfully? Will a Honda EU2000i run the A/C? I also think there is a Yamaha 2400 watt unit that is fairly light weight. There are also lots of clones of the Honda unit but I wonder if they are as quiet?

I would appreciate any input and experience others may have.

Thanks

Russ
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Old 10-08-2011, 01:49 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardsider View Post
Has anyone done any testing or research on what size generator is required to run the A/C/Heatpump on the Hard Side trailers?

I have a nice larger Cummins inverter generator (bought through Costco 3200 w peak, 2900 w continuous)that was purchased when I had a larger trailer so that I could run the A/C when boondocking.



This thing is HEAVY ( 130 lbs) and it is all I can do to get it in and out of the back of my pick-up without a serious back injury. I hauled the thing all the way to Montana and back but never even used it because it was a hassle to set up. I would have loved to run my microwave and charge my battery in Yellowstone while dry camping.

I was considering a smaller generator but wanted to know what others have been able to use successfully? Will a Honda EU2000i run the A/C? I also think there is a Yamaha 2400 watt unit that is fairly light weight. There are also lots of clones of the Honda unit but I wonder if they are as quiet?

I would appreciate any input and experience others may have.

Thanks

Russ
Boliy 3600SIE - roughly the same electrical specs as your Cummins but half the wieght. Also pretty much the same noise level as the EU2000. At about 1K$ not a bad deal.

...VTX-AL
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Old 10-08-2011, 03:12 PM   #3
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without knowing what size a/c you have, it's not easy to say.
i have a Dometic 13.5 a/c and a Honda 2000.

i tried running it at YNP when we were there. no it woudn't run it. it will run it near sea level but no way at elevation.
if it's a Coleman, it definitely will not run it.

to be sure, you have to have at least a Yamaha 2400. the Boliy should run it but be aware, there's not a lot of warranty support for it.
there are a number of Chinese-made inverter gennies, like the Boliy, such as Kipor, Magna, the new Dometic.
the problem is warranty service if you have issues.
the new Dometics should have a better support system than the other brands. it's made in China and you can find that it and the Magna, are the same exact generator, but the Dometic repair services are much more available.
here's one on Ebay:
Dometic LW3000 Portable RV Generator | eBay

you can find more info on Dometic's website.
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Old 10-08-2011, 04:07 PM   #4
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The A-Frame campers have only a 10,000 BTU A/C Heatpump (Dou-Therm Cool Cat). That's why I thought MAYBE a 2000w generator could handle the job... although those starting surges can be a bear depending on the design of the unit. The induction loads on an electric motor are often three times the running load on an older motor design. Modern electronics, if included, can now cut that by at least half. Hoping someone out there has tried running the little Hardside ( A-frame popup) on a smaller genny.

Thanks

Russ

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Old 10-08-2011, 04:13 PM   #5
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I think you will find the Honda 2000 will not run the DuoTherm heatpump. I say this from experience (coming from a 2009 T@B trailer which uses the identical unit). Go to the Yahoo T@B group tabtrailers : T@B / TAB Travel Trailers Dutchmen Thor and search for "Honda 2000" for lots of feedback on this subject.
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Old 10-08-2011, 11:42 PM   #6
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Mine is a Generac 4400, I used it all summer to power the a.c., had a few problems running the heat pump last weekend. Had the thermostat set for 65, it was 36 F outside overnight on the lake. It would run a couple cycles, then the 3rd or 4th time it would kick on, the breaker on the gen would kick. I'd have to get up and go 50 ft. down the steep hillside, few too many dos equis, and reset....just kept lowering the thermostat a degree til it would run..... put the thermostat on 60 the next night-- it was 39 outside-- purred like a kitty all night....
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Old 10-12-2011, 05:02 PM   #7
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Hello All,
I was wondering how much time (hrs) is needed for a 2000w generator to re-charge a group 24 battery from 50% down?
Debating on how many times I would need it vs. installing a second battery for dry camping.
Any help will be appreciated for this newbie.
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Old 10-12-2011, 07:04 PM   #8
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Approximate Recharge Time Calculations

(Battery Capacity) / (Charger Current) = Hours
(Amp-Hours) / (Amps) = Hours


An Example

Suppose I have a 50 Amp-Hour battery. That’s a fairly typical size for an automotive engine start type battery. Now let’s say I have a 10 Amp charger. (50 Amp-Hours) divided by (10 Amps) = 5 Hours. So we would estimate that it will take a good 10 Amp charger about 5 Hours to recharge a dead 50 Amp-Hour battery. Actually this rough estimate usually tells us how long it takes to recharge the battery to about 80% of its capacity. This is bulk charging.

To complete the recharge of a battery to 100% with a 3-step charger, it turns out that it will probably take an equal amount of time, or another 5 hours to recharge the last 20% of the battery capacity. This is the adsorption charging phase.

If your RV is plugged into shore power for 48 hours and no load is detected, it goes into float mode. This is trickle charging.

You need to know:

Capacity of your battery ( Group 24 is 85 Amp-Hr I think)

Charging Current- I assume your generator is an AC unit? Are you using it to power your converter which in turn will charge the battery? If so you need to check the specs on your converter.


My A122 has a WFCO converter that has three stage charging and max of 20 amps, That's good since you typically don't want to charge a lead acid battery at greater than 25% of capacity in the bulk stage.

Here are the converter modes:

Absorption Mode: During this mode the converter output
is at 13.6 VDC range. This is the mode that the converter
will function at normally. This mode provides the 12 VDC
and the current required by the RV.

Bulk Mode: When the converter senses that the battery
voltage is less than 13.2 VDC (about 50% battery capacity)the converter will automatically go into the Bulk Mode.

Float Mode: If the RV is not being used for a period of time
and the shore power has been left plugged in, the converter
will automatically go in to float mode. The converter senses
if there has been any demand. If there is no activity for a
period the converter will automatically go into float mode.
When the converter senses a demand by turning on lights the
converter automatically goes into buck mode and returns to
absorption mode.

So it isn't exactly a straight forward calculation.

Assuming, with my converter, an empty battery would take

85 aHr / 20 amps = 4.125 hours to get to about 80% and about the same time to absorption charge on up to 100%. Since you are starting at 50% let's say you need only 3/8's of the bulk time to get to 80% or 1.5 hours plus the the same absorption time of about 4 hours.

Total charge time 50% to full batteries, about 6.5 hours. Hope that helps?
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Old 10-12-2011, 07:16 PM   #9
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Bob,

I have the Honda 2000, but on my T@B trailer I added a second 100 aH battery to go with the standard 75 aH battery and used an 80W solar panel when dry camping. The two batteries were not connected, but seperated by a switch. I primarily used the 100 ah battery. The 75 aH battery was kept in reserve (but was never needed).

This system is much quieter, no gas required and plenty of power. If you replace all incandescent bulbs with LEDs and use good conservation of power techniques the extra battery route will work just fine. I will be adding a second battery and solar charger to my A122 next camping season.

Dave
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Old 10-12-2011, 07:18 PM   #10
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Nice explanation hardsider.
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Old 10-12-2011, 08:10 PM   #11
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hmm ...

Save friends ... save nieghbours and go solar ...
I have an unused Kipor 2000 inverter genset in my basement .. that basically will never go camping since i replaced my RV/boat battery with two group 27s and an 80 watt solar panel.
On hot summer days ..or trips to the south .. i will go to the electrical sites .. but on normal 70 to 80 degree days, i stay on solar, stay quiet, and keep my neighbours happy.
An extra fantastic fan - "create a breeze" certainly helps in the solar situations.

d-mo
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