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Old 09-24-2013, 02:40 PM   #1
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Helpful guide to winterizing Forest River Rockwood/Flagstaff A-Frame

Attached photo provides step by step instructions how to winterize.
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Old 09-24-2013, 03:05 PM   #2
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Can't see the fine print on my computer anyway....

Here's a link to our FAQs on winterizing
Winterizing - Forest River Forums

Happy Camping!
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Old 09-24-2013, 06:50 PM   #3
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Here are better photos of the guide to winterizing
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:37 PM   #4
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Last winter, I just blew out my water system with air, poured antifreeze into the drain to fill the trap. I didn't like the idea of anti-freeze in the water system.

Also put a container of Damp-Rid into the camper, covered it and it sat in the driveway.

(BTW - I also got my camper at Jerry's)
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Old 10-02-2013, 01:27 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RascalRv View Post
Attached photo provides step by step instructions how to winterize.
Thanks! This is a nice step-by-step resource.
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Old 10-02-2013, 02:13 PM   #6
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I have to get mine done in the next two weeks due to elective surgery,(New Hip). I can't believe the season is over already....at least for me.
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Old 10-02-2013, 02:43 PM   #7
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Winterizing done on our 5th wheel.
Less than 1 gallon used.

My process:

1) open outside heater cover and make sure water heater is turned off.
2) Go inside and place water heater valves to bypass.
3) Using a 1 1/16 inch socket, remove/inspect anode and drain the water heater.
4) Using a wand hooked to the garden hose, flush out anode bits and calcium nodules.
5) Dry out interior of water heater by placing a paper towel corner through the anode hole and hang down the heater door. Siphon will dry out interior.
6) While heater is draining, open low point drains.
7) Go inside and open all faucets and then the outside shower faucet; let water drain until it stops.
8) Close shutoff valve on 2 gallon water pressure accumulator.
9) Close all camper faucet valves (including outside shower!) and close/cap the low point drains.
10) Turn winterization valve to antifreeze hose.
11) Remove 10 amp fuse from water pump and go inside to turn on water pump switch.
12) Insert hose from winterization valve into 1 gallon of RV antifreeze.
13) Insert 10 amp fuse in holder. Pump should run about 1 minute and shut off sucking about 2-3 pints of antifreeze into system and pressurize it. If pump does not siphon antifreeze it will need to be primed. If pump does not prime there is an air leak somewhere.
14) Open each faucet handle briefly starting with the one farthest from the water pump. Leave open until you see strong pink color come out then shut off. repeat for other faucet. Pump most likely with start up and shut down. (You should have a helper watch the gallon to make sure it does not fall over or the hose suck air.)
15) Work towards the pump repeating step 14 till pink comes out of all faucets. Don't forget the shower stall and the outside shower. Flush the toilet until strong pink color comes out.
16) You should have used about 4-5 pints of RV antifreeze at this point and the inside plumbing is done.
17) Go outside to the shower and remove the handle. Install an A-663 brass adapter on the outside shower wand. Screw one way check valve to adapter and connect check valve to city water inlet. Open one outside shower valve. Remove 10 amp fuse from water pump so it does not run. Crack open a single low point drain valve (cap) briefly. The pressurized antifreeze exiting the low point drain will cause the trapped water in the city water check valve to be replaced with the antifreeze in wand hose.
Close the low point drain and shower faucet valve.
18) Remove wand assembly from city water inlet and connect to black water flush inlet. Replace 10 amp water pump fuse. When system is pressurized, open shower faucet valve again till you hear the turbo spinner whirling. Close shower valve.
19) Repeat step 18 with your gray water tank flush if you have one.
20) There should be about 1 pint of RV antifreeze left in the gallon. Pour 1/3 of what is left in each of the sink, shower, and vanity drains.
21) Remove paper towel from water heater anode port. Coat anode threads with Teflon pipe dope or Teflon tape. Screw in until snug and then extra 1/4 turn. Do not over tighten. If it leaks in the spring (never has for me), just snug it up till it stops leaking and no more.
22) Open fresh water tank drain; drain; close drain.

Have a Cold beer (or hot chocolate) for a job well done.
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Old 10-02-2013, 03:23 PM   #8
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Great stuff, Lou.
Thanks

Addition - some (myself included) can't forget the washer/drier water feed and drain lines.
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Old 10-02-2013, 03:55 PM   #9
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No filter canister? Youroo!!
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Old 10-02-2013, 04:07 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by youroo View Post
No filter canister? Youroo!!
Nope. Removed when I put the 2 gallon expansion tank in the system.
Useless piece of junk, IMO.
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Old 10-02-2013, 04:37 PM   #11
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Just didn't want people who have filters to Miss this item,as they have a way of (Placing them in the Damnest Places to get to! Youroo!!
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Old 10-02-2013, 05:02 PM   #12
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did the expansion tank keep water pump running to a minimum when not hooked to water at cg? tired of mine starting when i get up in the wee hrs to, well, you know. sounds like im going to wake up all neighbors at early thirty in the morning.
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Old 10-02-2013, 05:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwaynerz View Post
did the expansion tank keep water pump running to a minimum when not hooked to water at cg? tired of mine starting when i get up in the wee hrs to, well, you know. sounds like im going to wake up all neighbors at early thirty in the morning.
Even with my "silence" mod to the water pump, it is still pretty loud. The 2 gallon tank is good for 3 #1 flushes or 1-2 #2 flushes without the pump starting. Perfect for middle of the night visits.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tor-32137.html

I tried the small Shurflo tank but only 1 #1 flush before the pump.
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Old 10-09-2013, 12:29 PM   #14
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On the Forest River Rockwood Aframes, are the water heaters just powered by Gas(Propane) or are they powered by electric/gas?
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Old 10-09-2013, 01:33 PM   #15
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I just attach a 2.5 gal container of antifreeze to the pump inlet, open hot,cold,and flush the crapers. takes about 1.5 gals and all good, I have a on demand water heater so I do not turn that line off like most.
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Old 10-09-2013, 02:12 PM   #16
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RascalRV ... our hot water heaters are propane only... but use a 12volt ignition system ..
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Old 10-09-2013, 02:53 PM   #17
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k, thanks. I haven't had a need to use my water heater since I bought my unit this past June since my unit doesn't have the installed bath/shower feature so was curious if it was both electric and gas like bigger units offer. I would be more incline to use it on a reguar basis it was electric.
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Old 10-09-2013, 03:57 PM   #18
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We kinda like it because it allows us to camp off line .. and still have hot water ... however we still dont use it much ... as the sink/water system makes us crawl into the camper to do the dishes ....
As we are definately outside camper people ... we use the shower head to fill up the recepticals to do the dishes on the outside .. and occcasionally wash off the dog, when he has been bounding around the campsite .. especially in the early fall and spring ...
im trying to make it for one more camping trip .... but right now it looks like early November for me ...... water will be drained and winterized ... but im still looking forward to the adventure ... would like to see a little snow on the camper before we winch it into the garage ...

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