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Old 08-08-2015, 10:03 PM   #1
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Home electrical hookup

What electrical service is needed to plug in my A frame at home?
I want to be able to check the water pump, AC, furnace before heading out.
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Old 08-08-2015, 10:09 PM   #2
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I would guess a 30a plug is what would be best. 30 amp, 120v single pole. Unless your AC is smaller than 13.5k btu, in which case a regular 20 amp household style outlet could suffice.
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Old 08-08-2015, 10:12 PM   #3
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So I guess I would ask an electrician to run a 30 amp line to my carport??
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Old 08-08-2015, 10:15 PM   #4
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So I guess I would ask an electrician to run a 30 amp line to my carport??
Yes make sure it's 115vac 30 amp, not the common 220vac for dryers/welders 30 amp service.
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Old 08-08-2015, 10:40 PM   #5
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If you will go to the FAQ threads section, there is a sticky thread there that has a file you can print out to give your electrician to make sure he wires it correct. We have many stories here on the forums of where the professional electricians don't have experience with RV's and wire the outlets wrong for them.

EDIT: Here you go:

http://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/30-amp%20Service.pdf
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Old 08-08-2015, 10:48 PM   #6
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What electrical service is needed to plug in my A frame at home?
I want to be able to check the water pump, AC, furnace before heading out.
Of the three aforementioned items, only the A/C needs 120 volt power. The pump and furnace operate off of 12 volt DC, and as long as you have a charged battery, you can test them without 120 volt power.

Here is some more good reading, that explains the electrical systems and also the converters function.

Basic RV Electricity - RV Information (RV Maintenance)

RV Converters and Amp Draw - RV Information (RV Maintenance)
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Old 08-09-2015, 10:02 AM   #7
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I run my Aframe on the 120VAC wall socket that has a 20 amp Breaker. I have not had any problems. I do not run microwave and air condition at the same time.
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Old 08-12-2015, 03:06 PM   #8
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Electrician visited for estimate this morn, sent his estimate to me: $298.00 to run from carport through attic to panel ( approx 30 feet). So now, just to be clear about this: If I keep the camper plugged in to it, it will provide a trickle charge to the battery to keep it topped off? Would I keep it hooked up continuously when not traveling, or maybe only a week out of each month it sits at home?
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Old 08-12-2015, 03:29 PM   #9
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Yes you can keep RV plugged in all the time. If you do that, be sure to check battery water monthly as the standard converter has trickle charger vs intelligent charger which only charged when needed . Be sure to get an all weather outlet in carport so plug is covered when in use. This will also allow you to run a dehumidifier during high humidity months if desired. Not a bad price. Outlet and box is about $25, wire is about $50-75. Breaker $10
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Old 08-12-2015, 04:07 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Electrician visited for estimate this morn, sent his estimate to me: $298.00 to run from carport through attic to panel ( approx 30 feet). So now, just to be clear about this: If I keep the camper plugged in to it, it will provide a trickle charge to the battery to keep it topped off? Would I keep it hooked up continuously when not traveling, or maybe only a week out of each month it sits at home?
Yes, the converter will provide a charge to the battery when you are plugged into 120 volt AC. Depending on what type/brand converter your RV came with, depends on how good a charger you have.

As Flybob pointed out, you will need to keep an eye on the water level of your battery if you do keep it plugged in all the time, as a converter that provides a constant charge can boil the water out of the battery.

Also now, by having a true 30 amp dedicated outlet for your trailer at your house, you can run everything in it, just like you would at a campground. You could make a guest bedroom out of it as needed. (I have had to do that at my house on a few occasions)
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Old 08-12-2015, 07:14 PM   #11
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Before I cave for the $300 job, could I also keep the camper battery charged with just the current 15 amp house outlet I have already?
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Old 08-12-2015, 07:24 PM   #12
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Before I cave for the $300 job, could I also keep the camper battery charged with just the current 15 amp house outlet I have already?
Yes
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Old 08-12-2015, 07:24 PM   #13
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Before I cave for the $300 job, could I also keep the camper battery charged with just the current 15 amp house outlet I have already?

Yes you can
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Old 08-12-2015, 07:24 PM   #14
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Yes the only thing you may not be able to run is the AC. I have start my 13k AC at home on a 20A plug. Started ok but would not do it for a long period of time. I keep mine plugged in when ever I have it at home.
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Old 08-12-2015, 07:30 PM   #15
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I tried it about a year ago and a fuse blew in the camper, so don't know why or which one anymore, darn.
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Old 08-12-2015, 07:34 PM   #16
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I tried it about a year ago and a fuse blew in the camper, so don't know why or which one anymore, darn.
Was it actually a fuse (12 volt DC items) or a circuit breaker tripping (120 volt AC)? It also may have been a gfci tripping. Do you recall which exactly as we may be able to help you troubleshoot it?
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Old 08-12-2015, 07:50 PM   #17
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It was a fuse as I recall my son helped me replace it. I had a reducer from the camper cord to carport outlet.
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Old 08-25-2015, 03:51 PM   #18
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Well the deed is done, the 30 amp service is sheltered in my carport and per my Progressive EMS system, all is well. I decided to position the outlet so I would not need my extension after all. Thanks to everyone for all the input. If it ever gets below 95 degrees I will go out and play with it. The heat in the Tampa Bay area has been horrible with very high humidity! My UPS driver just stopped by to check out the A frame features/size.
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Old 08-25-2015, 08:56 PM   #19
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Much better to advise before things go up in smoke rather than after a catastrophe!
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Old 08-26-2015, 08:03 AM   #20
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If you add a battery disconnect switch to your trailer, you can keep your trailer plugged in to shore power and not worry about overcharging the batteries or boiling off water. Everything in the trailer will still work if plugged in and battery disconnected.. Just remember to switch on the batteries a day or two before traveling to get a full charge.
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