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Old 08-26-2016, 04:50 PM   #1
2TR
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Hot water tank draining and mods to A128S

Hi I have an 2014 A 128S Used it for the first time last weekend,. Things went well. Question. I used the city water, did not fill the potable water tank. So to drain the hot water tank can I turn the hot water faucet on and the water pump on after disconnecting from the city water? Will this drain the hot water tank? I have read other forms and it sounds like the water pump only serves the potable water tank. I can not see me removing the valve on the hot water tank to drain it. Feedback please.

In looking for an answer on the hot water tank, I found an old post on removing a table and putting 3 or 4 planks in the sleeping space where the table top would go. Then one can remove ?? to better use the space for non eating events. We had started that process prior to using the camper last week-end. I wish we had found that posting to help us decide what we were doing. We did this for both sleeping areas. I will use the small table top plus a plank for one sleeping area and store the big/folding one at home. My boards store really well and give the option of layered storage etc.

We also used the storage behind the back bed for stuff and left the back support up on the bed/couch, no problem with clearance.

I also carried my Trek-Madone road bike (intact-did not remove the front wheel) on the front floor of the camper, crank side up. I could carry a second bike on the floor if I took off its front wheel. There is a lot of possible storage options on the beds/floor etc. I was amazed.

I wanted to carry a 5ax7 plastic rug (??) on the bumper. PVC (6 inch) was way to heavy etc. So we took a closet maid shelf and cut it to fit the back bumper (does not touch the back of the camper or spare tire). The little bumper thing or ridge (?) is out to the back of the bumper, facing up, elect ties it down. WE put the rolled up rug on the shelf and tied it down. Since it is plastic I did not care if it got wet, etc. Will take it off and dry/store at home.

Now looking for some kind of clip light that I can use for an up light as the roof lights seem to be in everyone's eyes when visiting.
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Old 08-26-2016, 04:55 PM   #2
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Here is the site for the planks Handbuilder 7-7-2014


Plank boards for dinette bed in A-Frame
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Old 08-26-2016, 08:23 PM   #3
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RE:
Question. I used the city water, did not fill the potable water tank. So to drain the hot water tank can I turn the hot water faucet on and the water pump on after disconnecting from the city water? Will this drain the hot water tank? I have read other forms and it sounds like the water pump only serves the potable water tank.


If you want to drain the water heater you have to remove the anode at the base of the tank. Be sure to open the preasure relief valve at the top of the tank 1st.

This isn't rocket science stuff. Pull the release valve at to the top of the tank to the horizontal position, get a large adjustable wrench and turn the bolt looking thing at the bottom of the tank in a counter clockwise fashion. You might want to stand back, water will come out. To be sure you get it drained, open a hot water faucet in the camper. This will allow air to enter the system, eliminating a vacuum.
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Old 08-26-2016, 08:26 PM   #4
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Thanks I was afraid that would be the only way. I will try. Should I be worried about the water in the hot water tank?
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Old 08-26-2016, 08:29 PM   #5
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I'll just add: you should do this very thing at your house at least one a year to flush the sediment from the bottom of your water heater.

After turning off the water of course,
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Old 08-26-2016, 08:33 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2TR View Post
Thanks I was afraid that would be the only way. I will try. Should I be worried about the water in the hot water tank?
If it's less than a few weeks, no. If you live in the north and it gets cold. YES.
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Old 08-26-2016, 08:44 PM   #7
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I open my low point drains, it drains water heater and water lines. It sheds 40+ lbs. of weight. So I can save like .0005 Gal. of fuel per tank. It makes me feel better anyway.
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Old 08-27-2016, 07:43 AM   #8
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Would that be the drain for the potable water tank? Mine is close to the driver's side tire sort of behind it. If the hot water tank will fill from the city water fill or the potable water tank, then should it not drain from either? If I have not filled the potable water tank and I open the drain for the potable water tank it seems this should drain the hot water tank. Are their valves that direct the hot water fill/empty to which every side I fill it from? Must be as the hot water tank should be higher than the potable water tank right so I am thinking it should gravity flow to the potable tank unless there is a valve to stop it? Could it be a back flow check valve so I would not have a valve I can turn on or off? I would open the hot water faucet to help with vacuum issue. Thanks
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Old 08-27-2016, 08:50 AM   #9
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Draining the water heater by removing the anode rod is easy, once you have the right size socket (1 1/16). As stated above, first open the pressure relief valve and then unscrew the drain plug.

The advantage of this is that sediment in the heater will drain directly out of the heater. It is good to flush out the heater at this point, to get more sediment out.

If you use the low point drains, some of that sediment may get into the low point drain water lines. This also gives you the opportunity to examine your anode rod and replace when necessary. Put some teflon plumbers tape on the plug threads when re-inserting the rod, and do not over tighten it.
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Old 08-27-2016, 10:44 AM   #10
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No that's not, low point drains are for draining any water lines after the pump. Yes there is the possibility for sediment.
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