We have a 30' travel trailer (which we bought new 25 years ago and have never moved it) and we have our A128S Aframe.
I have a question about the 30' trailer that you guys should be able to help me with. Since we never pull it I need to level it again. The ground is pretty soft when it rains so it keeps sinking. The tires on it are dry rotted and not sure even if the bearings have frozen or not so don't want to have to pull it out. We have it under a metal shed roof.
I was thinking of crawling under the trailer and digging down a ways and laying a 16" x 16" concrete pad...then putting a 3ton automotive jack stand on that and then leveling the trailer and sitting it on the jack stand.
My other alternative to using the automotive jack stands was to use 5 ton scissor jacks so that if it did start leaning a bit I could just jack it up a little with the handle....but I think if I remember correct that scissor jacks are just to stabalize and probably won't hold the weight of the trailer for very long.
Can you tell me if either of these should work or why it won't. Thanks
David
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Tow Vehicle: 2012 Durango 3.6 Pentastar Engine
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Go ahead with the 16X blocks as planed, one jack on each corner the others space evenly between them.
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2016 F350 6.7L LB CC Reese 28K 2014 Chaparral Lite 266sab
"Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." 2014 19 days camping 2015 17 days camping201620 days camping
David - maybe use screw jacks with 2X12 pressure treated lumber under them. I would think 6 or 8 jacks would be plenty. I've seen them at walmart for about $30 for a set of 4 and supposed to support 6,000 pounds. If (like me) you don't like snakes, spiders, and dirt maybe you could find a guy who levels camps/boathouses?
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I would be leary of using a concrete slab. You didn't say how thick it was, but I would be concerned with it cracking mid lift. I would make a bed of PT 6 x 6's.
For a long term setup... I agree with FordIdaho... PT cribbing the entire frame (getting it off the wheels entirely), but wouldn't be comfortable with stands other than for the initial lift and blocking. If it needed to be leveled again in the future you could always just lift and add material to the existing blocks.
With the jacks in a long term situation, the point of contact is quite small and concentrated. Any sinking or shifting.. the jacks could lean and topple or the base could slip off the PT base material.
that I use with a floor jack(auto) to raise things all the time.
Jack up a corner and then hold it up with an automotive jack stand.
Do the other corners and maybe another round if needed to check out and change the tires, and lube the bearings.
Put some rock gravel in the tire dips, and you're ready to roll!
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