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Old 07-27-2016, 07:28 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
I guess we can agree to disagree. I think the wire is a CYA addition. If there isn't enough contact for a ground, I suspect there isn't enough contact to pull my TT.
Do you put grease on your ball? Is there any dirt or oxide on the ball? That is the kind of added and variable resistance I am talking about. And the relative movement of the ball and coupler will cause arcing and sparking because of any dirt or oxide, creating more oxide for a large current to flow through.

That's why I believe the ball/coupler is an inferior electrical path.

Fred W
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Old 07-27-2016, 07:30 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by f5moab View Post
The computer controlled charging systems used on many new vehicles makes it next to impossible to get an accurate read of the charge voltage to the trailer while the TV is idling. I cannot speak for Hyundai, but I know on later model GM vehicles it gets rather complicated.

On my Silverado, after certain parameters are met (basically cruising down the highway with a fully charged TV battery and no high amp accessories are turned on), the TV output from the generator will be 12.9V. Just enough to sustain the battery and the other required electrical drain.

However, if I simply turn on the headlamps (or turn on Tow/Haul mode), the output voltage of the vehicle goes to 13.9-14.5. That will increase the charge to the trailer. And from an experience of having dead batteries after a long trip without the headlamps On with the fridge running on 12V, and then many long trips with the headlamps On and the fridge on 12V, I learned there is truth in these facts.
Good point.

Fred W
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