Let's Talk Winterizing...

[Gary Linda]

Hi Folks.
I just started the winterizing process and took some great advice from folks in this forum. I just wanted to put up a few pictures of what the A122 looks like.

Note that there are 3 valves to the water tank. One on red, one on blue. They stop water to and from tank. The 3rd valve is on the verticle hoses, red/blue. This allows water/antifreeze to flow thru hot and cold pipes.

[chucker25]

Originally Posted by thehamguy1

I just finished blowing out the water lines on my A128 and putting antifreeze in the system. Looking far under the sink, I found that there IS a P-trap in the sink drain line, as I'd thought. It's not located right under the sink but at the outer wall of the trailer just before the drain exits. If one just looks at the sink drain, he would think there wasn't a trap there, but look deeper, friends!
Maybe the other models or later ones omitted the P-trap but I doubt it. It would be needed to keep sewer gas out of the camper if one were ever connected to a sewer line (remote chance of that, but still a possibility). So my original advice stands: pour a cup or so of antifreeze into your sink drain when you're done with the other winterizing.

I can confirm my 2013 A128S also has a 'P' trap in the sink drain.

[Yukon Don]

OK, I'm going to throw out a question here for the experienced A-framers. We have umpteen threads on winterizing the water systems, a mention about tires and I think (hope) everybody's smart enough to not leave their battery out there all winter.

What else is there to do?
What about the various openings for the fridge controls, vents, etc?
Should I tape something over these for the winter, or stuff them with something?
If I use tape (say, to tape towels over the skylights) is there a recommended brand that wont bugger up the finish on the unit, come spring?

Would there be any problem with stashing the propane tanks inside the unit for the winter?

I ordered an RV cover and a set of "tyre guards" from RV Covers Direct (and spoke with a very pleasant woman with a delightful southern accent ).
I intend to park on a pair of 2X10s. Rear stabilizers and tongue jack will be down (also on 2X10s). I never did use my water system (too used to hauling jugs along) so I'm not too worried about that.

What I'll have up here in Northern Manitoba, weather-wise, is heavy snow loads and cold -minus 40F is not unheard of, I've seen the (thankfully!) rare day where it dips below minus 50F .

Any thoughts?

[thehamguy1]

I'll be interested in some of those answers too. I can answer one of them partially. Under the trailer are two plastic drain circles, one under the refrigerator control area and one under the Cool Cat. Both openings are circles with perforated plastic disks inside; they allow the two areas above them to drain if they ever get water in them. They're also great at letting Dempster dust get inside. Last fall I covered each of them from below with outlet or junction box covers, the square galvanized metal covers you put on an outlet box if it contains a wiring junction instead of an outlet. I lay underneath the trailer with two short wood screws for each cover and just screwed them over the holes. I took them off in the Spring. Why put them on? I think it would be pretty easy for a rodent to gnaw through the plastic drain, but they'll have to work a lot harder to chew through these. I'll be interested to get suggestions for what to cover the fridge control vent/covers with. I didn't do that last year but I want to this time.

Sometime last fall I posted pics of the cover plate installation. Here they are again; before and after, on the CoolCat drain. The underside of my trailer was much prettier then than now...

[loganmartin]

Thanks for the the winterizing 101 class, Deb!

Where do I mail the check?

[D-mo]

Well ...im not sure about putting any type of toweling around your window(s) as this is the leak point in your campers. Anything that can hold and absorb moisture, in my estimatiion, anyways should not be put close to these areas.
Perhaps cutting or building a styro-foam box for around the window(s) could be the answer, and taping it down? This would allow the cover to not interfer or rub the windows during those crazy Canadian storm that we often get up here ...

anywhooo .. just a suggestion ...

d-mo

[gregory]

Thanks loganmartin, but you'd have to make the check out to Gary. I just wrote the post after conferring with him.

I hope you noticed the correction that there is a P trap under the sink in our units. It's suggested that a cup of RV antifreeze put in it through the sink drain.

I moved some photos around in my photobucket account and lost them in the post... sheesh!

Deb

[loganmartin]

Originally Posted by gregory

Thanks loganmartin, but you'd have to make the check out to Gary. I just wrote the post after conferring with him.

I hope you noticed the correction that there is a P trap under the sink in our units. It's suggested that a cup of RV antifreeze put in it through the sink drain.

I moved some photos around in my photobucket account and lost them in the post... sheesh!

Deb

THANKS Gary!!

Yes, I saw it and I picked up RV AF this evening.

LM

[Tinsu]

Battery Questions:

(1) Just want to verify that to remove the battery, should I disconnect the black cable first, then the red?
(2) Wrap them in electrical tape?
(3) Remove the battery and store on top of a 2x4 in the garage.
(4) What should I do with the wrapped cables? Leave them in the black storage box and tighten it for the winter?
(5) I plan to do some winter camping at campgrounds with electrical? Do I need to reinstall the battery? I will not use anything without electrical power. Would it be smart to include in case power went out to the gas furnace worked?
(6) My battery cables are connected with 1/4 inch nuts. I replaced them with wingnuts. Is there anything better for quick release?

Thank you in advance for taking the time to help.
John

[gregory]

The following answers are personal opinion from our experiences. Others may have differing opinions and advice.

Tinsu's Battery Questions:

(1) Just want to verify that to remove the battery, should I disconnect the black cable first, then the red?
Black first. Actually, with the battery in the plastic battery box, it shouldn't be a problem. Most of the problems, when removing batteries or jumping vehicles, come from automotive engine, metal frame etc in close vicinity of the wrench.

(2) Wrap them in electrical tape?
Sure, that would keep them from touching each other or the battery posts.

(3) Remove the battery and store on top of a 2x4 in the garage.
Yes, if you are doing that because you are worried about theft. If theft is not an issue, as long as the cables are disconnected, the battery will be fine stored inside the black case on the camper for several months.

(4) What should I do with the wrapped cables? Leave them in the black storage box and tighten it for the winter?
Sure, that would keep them out of the weather.

(5) I plan to do some winter camping at campgrounds with electrical? Do I need to reinstall the battery?
When you plug into AC, the "hot" cable will become "live" from the converter trying to charge the battery. With the battery unhooked (not present), the converter will also continue to run, believing the battery needs charged.

As a side note, you will not have DC power to run the refrigerator while traveling. You would still have the propane operation option.

I will not use anything without electrical power. Would it be smart to include in case power went out to the gas furnace worked?
For sure, that would be a consideration. Having the battery with you would give you some insurance in that regard.

(6) My battery cables are connected with 1/4 inch nuts. I replaced them with wingnuts. Is there anything better for quick release?
No recommendations for optional quick release. A little advice about the wing nuts: take care to use stainless steel wing nuts, so they won't corrode.

Deb

[RJHuser]

In addition to the comments on item 5, without the battery installed, the emergcy breakaway switch won't have power and the trailer brakes won't work in a hitch failure situation.

Never pull any trailer with electric brakes without a good, charged battery installed.