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Old 09-22-2015, 02:27 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by AquaMan View Post
I've always used a basin wrench to take my anode rod out and to just snug it up when installing. I also don't replace it as long as there is sacrificial material left. We are on season 4 on this rod.
x2 on the both the "just snug it up" and 4th season comments
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Old 09-22-2015, 04:42 PM   #22
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Talking Anode Rod Removal

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Originally Posted by kdot View Post
Nut Cracker or Liquid Wrench. The anode probably takes a 1-1/16 socket, on a short extension. All the talk about breaker bars sounds scary. The anode should NEVER be turned in that tight. Like others have said, just snug it up with the Teflon tape. Incidentally, I've found that anodes need to be replaced about once a season. Incidentally X2, never remove an anode without making sure that there's no pressure in the line; always pull the relief valve first! Beats getting wet.

Kdot
Great advice! I forgot to open the releif valve the last time I drained my water heater to winterize and I received a great reminder! Water and the crud sediment all over my shirt and jeans! Had to laugh at myself and so did my wife!
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Old 09-22-2015, 04:55 PM   #23
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...Also, be aware that the socket usually requires a 1-1/2 inch drive, so you'll need that size wrench and a short extension. They'll cost you a little bit of money but those three pieces probably ought to be in every camper's tool box!

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And what are you going to do with a 1-1/2" drive? Never seen one quite that large.
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Old 09-22-2015, 05:02 PM   #24
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PB Blaster works great. Once it is out and repalced, remove it annually to prevent it from seizing up again.
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Old 09-22-2015, 05:16 PM   #25
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I only own 3/8 wrenches. I purchased my 1 1/16 socket (1/2 drive) at Lowes along with a short extension - 1/2 to 3/8 adapter.
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Old 09-22-2015, 05:36 PM   #26
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I have always used a set of shower valve sockets. They come is a large clip with a bar that goes thru the other end of the sockets and there is a 1 and 1/2 inch socket for the anode rod, also they are relatively light to carry with you.
I'm afraid your 1-1/2" socket will not loosen the anode as it is 1-1/16".
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Old 09-22-2015, 05:40 PM   #27
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Loosening the anode rod

Yes, you can use adaptors and a 1-1/8 socket, but it will be loose and run the risk of stripping the corners on the anode. And why buy adaptors when, for a few dollars more, you can get the 1-1/2 inch drive wrench and do it right. Incidentally, the 1/2 inch drive wrench and appropriate socket also fits trailer lug nuts!

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Old 09-22-2015, 05:47 PM   #28
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Many years ago I bought a folding tire wrench at Walmart in USA. It opens and forms a 4 point cross with 4 sizes of sockets. One size (forget which one) works just fine to turn out the anode rod. Handy tool to have for TV or Trailer wheels. I keep it stored in the cubby that has the hot water tank, water filter, and pump so I never have to hunt for it.
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:00 PM   #29
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Throughout my lifetime this FR trailer has the first electric WH I've ever had. We will rarely use AC power as we camp at National Forest and State campgrounds without hookups most of the time. Do you think the anode will still need annual replacement?
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:39 PM   #30
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Throughout my lifetime this FR trailer has the first electric WH I've ever had. We will rarely use AC power as we camp at National Forest and State campgrounds without hookups most of the time. Do you think the anode will still need annual replacement?
Heating method has nothing to do with anode life. Anode life depends on the water.
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