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09-26-2015, 02:44 PM
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#81
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Just a member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Great White North
Posts: 921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gljurczyk
Don't give the Canadians any idea's they came up with the square screw heads....
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This thread is starting to come apart at the seams...
And don't get me started about dealing with two systems of measurement.
__________________
K&L + the Wild Bunch
TT: 2011 Rockwood 8293RKSS
TV: 2019 Dodge 3500 SRW Crew HO CTD
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09-26-2015, 02:50 PM
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#82
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Idaho
Posts: 9,839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wana65stang
Yes they have a colour ( not color) code and they are the BEST design for not slipping when you are driving them in.
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“You like to-may-toes and I like to-mah-toes"
__________________
2016 F350 6.7L LB CC Reese 28K 2014 Chaparral Lite 266sab
"Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." 2014 19 days camping 2015 17 days camping201620 days camping
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09-26-2015, 09:00 PM
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#83
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: St Pete/FL
Posts: 347
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Never would have thought there could be so much input on changing out an anode rod!!
__________________
Dobe Fanatic - Largo, Florida
2012 Flagstaff T12RB A-Frame
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09-27-2015, 07:43 AM
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#84
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SouthWest Michigan
Posts: 5,977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwannacamp
Friend of mine sent his young daughter to get a screw driver....
She came back and asked.... Is it a + or a -
(Plus or a minus)
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
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Smart Girl !!!
I like the way the Square / Phillips works
They should outlaw the Minus one !!!
LOL !!!
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09-27-2015, 05:56 PM
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#85
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: St Pete/FL
Posts: 347
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The suspense is over
My anode rod after 3 years and all the calcium deposits on the ground after a very good flush.
__________________
Dobe Fanatic - Largo, Florida
2012 Flagstaff T12RB A-Frame
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09-27-2015, 06:44 PM
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#86
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7,916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DobeFanatic
My anode rod after 3 years and all the calcium deposits on the ground after a very good flush.
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Same as mine after less than three
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
__________________
2017 Puma 297RLSS
2005 Ram 2500 4X4 diesel SMOKER!!
I love puns, irony and tasteless jokes...
born in Texas.... live in Arkansas
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09-27-2015, 06:48 PM
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#87
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: St Pete/FL
Posts: 347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwannacamp
Same as mine after less than three
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
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Ignorance is bliss. I won,t be waiting more than a year going forward. Already have a new rod ready for next year, and will drain the tank between trips !
__________________
Dobe Fanatic - Largo, Florida
2012 Flagstaff T12RB A-Frame
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09-28-2015, 06:24 AM
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#88
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SouthWest Michigan
Posts: 5,977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwannacamp
Same as mine after less than three
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
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WOW guys,,, where are you getting your water ???
We had a Flagstaff TT for about 8 years,,, Anode never go to that point !!!
Maybe the filtered soft water we use helps ???
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09-28-2015, 06:38 AM
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#89
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Oshawa, ON
Posts: 983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DobeFanatic
Never would have thought there could be so much input on changing out an anode rod!!
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X2
__________________
Dave, Southern,ON
2017 GMC SLT HD All Terrain Crew Cab (6' 6" Box) 2012 Roo 23SS
E2 Trunnion WDH (1,000 lb / 10,000 lb)
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09-28-2015, 07:17 AM
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#90
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny kustom
It's pipe thread, is it not?
Teflon and snug.
2008 F350 CCSB V10
2016 Sabre 36QBOK
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X2. The first time I pulled it last fall I had to use a 1-1/6 socket, extension and breaker bar. Now it's teflon and snug it up, comes off real easy now.
__________________
Joe & Beverly
2014 Ram 2500 CTD, CC, SB
2014 8289WS lifted
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09-28-2015, 07:22 AM
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#91
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SouthWest Michigan
Posts: 5,977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhoneDude 8289
X2. The first time I pulled it last fall I had to use a 1-1/6 socket, extension and breaker bar. Now it's teflon and snug it up, comes off real easy now.
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Right On !!!
As I said it is not a lug nut,,, or a mower blade !!!
If it does not leak,,, it is plenty tight enough !!!
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09-28-2015, 09:35 AM
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#92
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Southern New England
Posts: 862
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Only used our new 2015 once last fall for a 4 day trip. Dealer winterized it for us when we got back (it was in for warrantee work). The side of the camper was soaked in calcium.
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2017 GMC Yukon
2018 Roo 23 ikss
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06-13-2016, 11:44 PM
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#93
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Bergland (U.P.), MI
Posts: 413
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Hate to revive an old thread, but...
This seems like the logical place to post. I am wondering if it is normal or necessary for the anode rod nut to be completely tightened flush with the outer edge of the drain hole. Mine shows about 1/4-inch of exposed threads and is very tight to the point that I think additional tightening would risk stripping the threads. Last time I tightened it to a seemingly reasonable amount, water leaked around the rod. It is thread-taped. I mentioned the leak to the dealer; I think they tinkered with it, and they claim the leak was fixed. However, it doesn't look like they did anything since my earlier attempts, and I have not filled and pressurized the tank since then.
If it makes any difference, both the rod nut and the drain hole threads are quite rusty and have been since "new" (2016 Flagstaff 12RBST obtained this year). The rod itself is fully intact and the heater has been used only to fill and test.
Thanks!
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06-14-2016, 01:28 AM
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#94
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2007 WildCat 32QBBS
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,349
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The anode rod is National Pipe Thread and is tapered. So when you turn it, it is tightening in the bung like a wedge. You should have some threads exposed even after tightening. Use three full wraps of Teflon tape wrapping it counter clockwise. Tighten it enough so there's no leak. If you see a drip, go a little more.
__________________
*Current: 2005 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually 6.0 diesel 4x4*
*Retired: 1987 F350 Crew Cab Dually 6.9 turbo diesel
2007 Forest River WildCat 32QBBS
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06-14-2016, 06:32 AM
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#95
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Bergland (U.P.), MI
Posts: 413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05CrewDually
The anode rod is National Pipe Thread and is tapered. So when you turn it, it is tightening in the bung like a wedge. You should have some threads exposed even after tightening. Use three full wraps of Teflon tape wrapping it counter clockwise. Tighten it enough so there's no leak. If you see a drip, go a little more.
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Thank you for the clarification!
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06-14-2016, 04:37 PM
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#96
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Orange Park Fl.
Posts: 1,876
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Installation instructions for the rod usually state "no more than 1 1/4 raps of Teflon tape. Idea is you must cut through enough tape to make good metal to metal contact. I usually check continuity with an omh meter after installation.
__________________
2014 Solera 24R
USN Retired
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06-15-2016, 06:39 AM
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#97
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SouthWest Michigan
Posts: 5,977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikegjax
Installation instructions for the rod usually state "no more than 1 1/4 raps of Teflon tape. Idea is you must cut through enough tape to make good metal to metal contact. I usually check continuity with an omh meter after installation.
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Maybe that is why my Anode Rod is in such good shape,,, either to much Teflon tape ??? Or filtered soft water ???
Question for one of our plumbers,,,
Does it matter which way we rap out Teflon tape,,,
Clockwise or Counterclockwise ???
I vote NO !!!
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06-15-2016, 07:08 AM
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#98
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,652
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No. however, typically with all plumbing items where used it is installed clockwise when viewing threaded end (right hand threads). This assures the tape will not try to bunch up or unwind when item is screwed in.
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06-15-2016, 07:32 AM
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#99
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SouthWest Michigan
Posts: 5,977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbles
No. however, typically with all plumbing items where used it is installed clockwise when viewing threaded end (right hand threads). This assures the tape will not try to bunch up or unwind when item is screwed in.
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I have used many many roles of Teflon tape,,, and have never had one bunch up or unwind,,, maybe because I apply the tape very tightly ???
Thanks for your reply !!!
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06-15-2016, 07:33 AM
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#100
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolverine 1945
Maybe that is why my Anode Rod is in such good shape,,, either to much Teflon tape ??? Or filtered soft water ???
Question for one of our plumbers,,,
Does it matter which way we rap out Teflon tape,,,
Clockwise or Counterclockwise ???
I vote NO !!!
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Plumber here. You start the tape at the end of the thread that goes into the fitting and follow the direction of the thread as you wrap up towards the larger diameter of the NPT threads. It is hard to describe it as clockwise or counterclockwise because it all depends on which way you are looking at the threads.
Bruce
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2016 Rockwood Windjammer 3029W Diamond Edition
2015 Chevy 3500HD LTZ 6.0 Crew Cab 4x4 Long Bed 4.10:1 SRW
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