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Old 11-04-2013, 08:38 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by tra08hyb View Post
I like the changing your lights to LED lights. Is there a site you used to show you how to do it? Did you have to re-wire anything? I understand that this is a good idea with your lighting because if you're not plugged in for power it can put a strain on your battery.
No change in wiring needed. Simply replace the bulbs. I used two different ones and haven't decided which ones we like the best.
These are bulbs that just replace the originals:
http://www.amazon.com/42-SMD-Replacement-Light-Bulbs-STICKER/dp/B0087XOTWW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383571855&sr=8-1&keywords=921+led $5.63 for 2
These are flat panels:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Light-Panel-48-SMD-LED-T10-38mm-Dome-Festoon-Bulb-Base/390477573662?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid% 3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D180 60%26meid%3D2464894031728667230%26pid%3D100033%26p rg%3D8304%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D390477573662%2 6#ht_2948wt_1141 $2.49 each with free shipping. These have an adhesive backing that you press on to the inside of the light housing. I think these put out a little more light than the previously mentioned bulbs. These panels come with 3 different adapters for various light sockets.

Both are replacements for the 921 bulb in our Flagstaff a-frame.
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Old 11-04-2013, 10:00 AM   #12
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Lonewolf, how many of those panels can be accommodated in the fixture as a replacement for one bulb?

The panels have some advantages if you are able to use a soldiering iron to connect more than one to the pigtail. Although they project light directionally, using mounting tape and shims they can be pointed in different directions to spread the light around.
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Old 11-04-2013, 12:25 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Pooneil View Post
Lonewolf, how many of those panels can be accommodated in the fixture as a replacement for one bulb?

The panels have some advantages if you are able to use a soldiering iron to connect more than one to the pigtail. Although they project light directionally, using mounting tape and shims they can be pointed in different directions to spread the light around.
You are correct that the led's are highly directional. We haven't "field tested" these lights but have only checked them up with the camper set up in the shed. Our Flagstaff A-frame's original light fixures house two bulbs. There is a fixture on each end of the camper. The bulbs came first and when I installed them, both my bride and I agreed that they were very similar to the OEM bulbs. When the panels came, we agreed that the panels might be a little brighter with a more bluish light. I don't think you could squeeze two of the panels into the original housing. As I mentioned, each housing had two bulbs now replaced with two panels. We didn't notice a difference in light dispersion. The plastic defuser on the housing seems to take care of that. For a total of less than $11, I thought it would be a grand experiment!
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Old 11-04-2013, 01:46 PM   #14
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Thanks for the clarification. They must be much bigger (and brighter) than the panels I used inside my pop up in the past.

If I hadn't already put in an LED lighting system in my truck's bed cap, those would be a good option. And less expensive than the lights I used. In fact I could still probably use one to spot light my gear carrier in the back.
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Old 11-04-2013, 06:44 PM   #15
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I started with panels in the overhead lights, ended up removing them on one side and leaving them in only half of the light in the dinette side. The panels are just too damn bright. And with the led light tape mod with mini dimmer, we generally use that much more often for ambient lighting needs than the direct lighting of the overhead ceiling fixtures.
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Old 11-06-2013, 11:43 PM   #16
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no pics = It didn't happen.
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Old 04-09-2014, 04:44 PM   #17
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Have they made a change to the 2014 12DDST Model. I went to change the bulbs to the 921's and it looks like they have led tube lighting in there, or am I missing something. Also would like to see a picture of the mod to the crank so I can figure it out.
Thanks
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Old 04-12-2014, 07:44 PM   #18
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Not to threadjack this but I figured rather than start a new thread I would share a few things I have done with my new a122.

1) Voltage display (Amazon). This way I can keep an eye on the power level of the battery. I really don't understand how this is not included stock.

2) 12v power outlet / Dual USB charging ports (Amazon)

3) 24" TV with built in DVD player (Bestbuy was on sale last week)

The USB / 12v port cost a bit more than I had wanted to pay at first, but I think it looks a bit better than the less expensive options and decided to go for it.

The TV didnt come with the 12v plug, but I just took it into Radioshack and they had a generic car charger that came with 4 or 5 swappable tips and it came with one that fit (if not they sell quite a few beyond what comes with it, just make sure you make the TIP positive)



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Old 04-26-2014, 05:12 PM   #19
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I just completed the inside Fridge Fan mod.

Parts List

3 Pin Fan Extension Cable $3

120mm Computer Fan $14 (Probably overkill)

12v LED switch from Radio shack for $4.50 (I like radio shack's switches over what I saw on amazon as they mount easily with a 1/2" hole drilled)

Process

When i started preparing for this mod I had planned on using the light inside the fridge that I have read about others doing. Well out units dont have lights (its a new camper to me so i haven't had the chance to notice too much about the fridge) So my next plan was to run the wires through the drain plug, which again we do not have in our fridge (strike 2). So finally I decided that I would run the wires through the small hole that the thermosensor is run through.


To do this I took electrical tape and taped the wires to a wooden cooking skewer and attempted to fish the wires through the existing hole. This however did not work out exactly as planned. In the process the skewer made its own exit hole on the outside of the insulation. I dont see any major issue with this and at least I now i had the wires out of the fridge and somewhere where I could get power from.



As you can see, the red and black wires that are taped to the insulation run up behind the fins in the picture just a few inches above where the thermosensor comes out. But I dont think it should cause any issues.



Now I ran a pair of wires (Red and White in the above photo) along the bottom of the fridge access panel (there was a perfect sized gap between the hot and cold water pipes running along the bottom. into the compartment under the table bench that contains all the power and water heater.

Once there I tapped into the 12v line to one of the lights and added a small rocker switch from radioshack



I then zip tied the lower screw holes in the fan to the shelf and it is firmly held in place with just the 2 zip ties.



Overall I am sure the 120mm fan is a bit overkill but i figured the higher CFM and lower speed would help when the fridge is full. I also decided to use the fan extension cable so that if the fan ever needs replacing it is plug and play.

I forgot to snap pictures of where i tapped into the 12v line before closing up the camper. If anyone needs any I can get them next weekend when i am out with it.
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Old 04-27-2014, 10:34 PM   #20
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Nice job.


On a previous camper, I used a small CPU fan that made fair amount of noise. My guess is that you won't hear the 120MM fan even with the door open. Good choice.
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