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Old 06-19-2013, 08:54 PM   #31
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I just put in a 12v outlet on the side of the microwave cabinet for my new Endless Breeze fan. That location is close to the door so I can use the fan outdoors too.
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Old 06-20-2013, 05:27 PM   #32
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I just put in a 12v outlet on the side of the microwave cabinet for my new Endless Breeze fan. That location is close to the door so I can use the fan outdoors too.
Can you say more about how you installed the 12v outlet. Did you run wire directly from the positive battery terminal? If so, where did you run the wiring? I was thinking about running 14 gauge zip cord with 15 amp fuses directly from the battery and terminated with 15 amp Anderson Powerpoles. I operate VHF/UHF radios for the local ACS and ARES/RACES so I have all the parts and tools. On the other hand, I have no experience modifying RV wiring so I was going to fall back on what I did know. Thanks!
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:04 PM   #33
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I did it a quick 'n dirty way, I'm afraid. I just paralelled the power wires running to the factory radio. That wiring isn't substantial enough to run my Yaesu dual-band rig, I'm sure. You could open up the left dinette seat and tap into the wires from the battery as they enter the converter but then your rig's load would be added to the rest of the camper's load going through the external (main) fuse. That's going the long way around the barn to say I think the situation you proposed is good: heavy-duty wiring with its own fuse, directly to the battery. I think 14 gauge is right, so you don't starve your rig on the high-power setting. You'll likely have to drill one or more holes thru the floor to run the wires; be sure to caulk them afterwards.

You might think about installing a 12v terminal strip under a seat somewhere so you'll have a high-amperage access point with its own fuse for future mods. I need to do that myself. I believe daveinpickering did just that, and has a YouTube video showing it.
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:19 PM   #34
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i fused a 12 volt outlet to my exterior light system, going through the fire extingisher back box ... and also use an endless breeze fan ... works great for me .. as the endless breeze only uses minimal amps.

d-mo
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:23 PM   #35
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I got my fan on your recommendation from a couple years back, D-mo.
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Old 06-21-2013, 08:29 PM   #36
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I bought nice marine grade 12v sockets in amazon to install one if these days, both a regular cig plus as well as a dual USB plug. They are nice quality....

Blue Sea Dual USB Charger Socket

Blue Sea 1011 12V DC socket

I will probably run a common hot lead from the battery and then off of the use a blue sea 6-slot marine fuse block and run the accessories off of that.
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:35 PM   #37
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Can you say more about how you installed the 12v outlet. Did you run wire directly from the positive battery terminal? If so, where did you run the wiring? I was thinking about running 14 gauge zip cord with 15 amp fuses directly from the battery and terminated with 15 amp Anderson Powerpoles. I operate VHF/UHF radios for the local ACS and ARES/RACES so I have all the parts and tools. On the other hand, I have no experience modifying RV wiring so I was going to fall back on what I did know. Thanks!

One of the best places to pick up 12V is from the fridge. It works well because the fridge is on its own fuse, with no other draws and will never be used on 12V while the camper is occupied. On mine, a wire from the fridge can be run through the cabinetry to anywhere except the front right bench seat, without putting a hole in the floor.
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Old 06-23-2013, 10:25 PM   #38
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Carly is back from her voyage. She did very well. As experienced on the drive home, she tows with absolutely no drama. No wiggling or tugging the truck around.

We drove straight through to Lampasas, filled up for gas and headed out to the park, getting there with a fair about of sunlight available. I backed her in and set my Bal and chocks and unhitched. After helping the two passengers unload gear from the bed of the truck, I quickly leveled and stabilized her, then popped the top and folded the side up. Since the day was so hot, I opened all the windows and started the fan. The camper immediately started to cool down.

When I stepped back out the passengers were still pondering how to set up the first tent. So it was over to help them. Both were new to our group, one had never camped before, much less set up a tent, the other was a novice camper with a brand new tent. After getting the complicated poles on the REI tent set, I went back to my work of setting up camp (stove, chairs and lights etc.), which was completed before the other had finished loading gear in their tents. So right there, I had what I wanted, a quick setup and comfortable living. It beats my old pop up anytime. The fridge ran on gas the whole way and kept the contents cool for the weekend. I want to put a thermometer in there before I will fully trust it with food.

Sleeping was great because it cooled at night. I found that if the window at the head of the bed is open the fan draws a great breeze in.When combined with my battery operated fan, it was tolerably cool inside moving to sleeping bag cool as the night progressed.

Everyone of course wanted to come in for a tour, which was fun. The greatest benefit came when several people were opening wine bottles after our 10 mile hike and the ranger came over and told us to put it away. Thereafter, the wine was open and kept on the table just inside the door and we slipped over to fill our a glasses.

This morning, I kept getting sidetracked by people coming by for coffee. I love French Press coffee, but it is a time consuming way to make coffee for a group. Next time I volunteer to make coffee for a group, it will get a drip maker and and extra server. So striking camp took longer than usual but when it came to closing up the camper, It was just positioning thing on the floor, shutting the top, drilling up the stabilizers and "deleveling." No time at all.

It was a great all around trip. But there were two problems with the camper. First the roof ridge seal started coming off while I was packing and was dislodged even more by the several time I raised the top this weekend.

Second, after hitching up, I discovered that I cannot drop the tailgate on my truck with the camper is hitched. Because the tailgate hits the jack. It makes loading the truck a real pain, requiring holding the gate while someone else lifts a heavy cooler over the raised lip. Then closing the gate and climbing on the bumper to position the cooler. I find it odd that Forest River hasn't figured out not to build campers that can block a tailgate.

The solution for the first, I fear is a trip back to the dealer in Waller. The second problem may require the use of a swing up jack.

I think I will buy a second trunk lid support. My hitching routine starts and finishes on the the drivers side. I want to close the lid, latch the drivers side, then do my walk around and latch the right before getting into the car.
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Old 06-23-2013, 11:38 PM   #39
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The clearance between the jack and my tailgate (when down) is about half an inch, and only when the whole unit is straight. I think the only reason I have that much clearance is that the ball mount sticks out of the hitch receiver about three inches more than it needs to. So maybe you could look for a slightly longer ball mount-?
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Old 06-23-2013, 11:40 PM   #40
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One of the best places to pick up 12V is from the fridge. It works well because the fridge is on its own fuse, with no other draws and will never be used on 12V while the camper is occupied. On mine, a wire from the fridge can be run through the cabinetry to anywhere except the front right bench seat, without putting a hole in the floor.
This is just what I need. I now have a very basic electrical question. What is the correct way to connect my new wire to the wire going to the fridge? Thanks!
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