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Old 06-24-2013, 02:22 AM   #41
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I keep a 12v adapter in mine at all times
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:31 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by thehamguy1 View Post
The clearance between the jack and my tailgate (when down) is about half an inch, and only when the whole unit is straight. I think the only reason I have that much clearance is that the ball mount sticks out of the hitch receiver about three inches more than it needs to. So maybe you could look for a slightly longer ball mount-?
Thanks. Than is a good idea, I'll look into a longer ball mount.
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:48 AM   #43
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This is just what I need. I now have a very basic electrical question. What is the correct way to connect my new wire to the wire going to the fridge? Thanks!
I am no expert on this, but...the more difficult the method of connection, the better it will be.

The best way is probably solder. The second is to cut the wire and use crimp on splices.

The least good way is to use "snap on" splices that do not require cutting the wire. They will work but are prone to losing the contact. But if the connector is easy to get to it can be repaired quickly. I used these to get power for the fridge compartment ventilation fans on my old Niagara without incident. YMMV

An examination of your fridge may find a more suitable way.
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:51 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by Pooneil View Post

Thanks. Than is a good idea, I'll look into a longer ball mount.
If the 2" square tubing of your present ball mount is long enough, you could try moving the hole for the hitch pin farther back. BTW, the suggestion to use the fridge wiring is genius. It would have to be substantial wiring to handle the fridge's current demands, though I've never looked at it.

No wonder the folks in your previous popup's owners group miss you.
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:05 AM   #45
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If the 2" square tubing of your present ball mount is long enough, you could try moving the hole for the hitch pin farther back. BTW, the suggestion to use the fridge wiring is genius. It would have to be substantial wiring to handle the fridge's current demands, though I've never looked at it.

No wonder the folks in your previous popup's owners group miss you.
Thanks for your kind words. Most of what I know is gleaned from people who really know their stuff. I just remember it well.


Of course, when tapping into the fridge power line, one should know the fuse amp rating of the circuit and use wires and outlets with the same or greater rating. Or a inline fused outlet. Without being able to look at the converter right now, I'd say my fridge circuit is on a 15 amp fuse. So that would require only 14 gauge wiring.
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