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Old 10-17-2016, 04:38 PM   #1
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Need advice regarding draining water heater

Hi all!
In preparation to winterize our 2016 T12BH, I'm a little confused about the water heater.
Specifically, I'm unclear about the by- pass valve. It's purpose, and how to use it.
I need to get a 1" 1/16" socket to remove the anode rod to drain the water heater.

**Does anyone have a step by step process (or a link to one!) for draining the A-frame.

It should be fairly simple, it's just I've never done it before. There isn't a toilet, or P-trap to deal with, so it just draining the supply lines and water heater.
Thanks for your help!
Russ
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Old 10-17-2016, 05:49 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Russ in CO View Post
Hi all!
In preparation to winterize our 2016 T12BH, I'm a little confused about the water heater.
Specifically, I'm unclear about the by- pass valve. It's purpose, and how to use it.
I need to get a 1" 1/16" socket to remove the anode rod to drain the water heater.

**Does anyone have a step by step process (or a link to one!) for draining the A-frame.

It should be fairly simple, it's just I've never done it before. There isn't a toilet, or P-trap to deal with, so it just draining the supply lines and water heater.
Thanks for your help!
Russ
Close the two lines going into the tank.....red and blue.....the handles should look like they cross the lines........the bypass valve should be the opposite it should be inline with the line. Any water/fluid that comes that way will bypass the tank. Drain the tank by removing the anode.....inspect anode to look for excessive wear, replace if necessary. when replacing anode......wrap a few turns of white teflon tape around threads before replacing.
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Old 10-17-2016, 07:13 PM   #3
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Close the two lines going into the tank.....red and blue.....the handles should look like they cross the lines........the bypass valve should be the opposite it should be inline with the line. Any water/fluid that comes that way will bypass the tank. Drain the tank by removing the anode.....inspect anode to look for excessive wear, replace if necessary. when replacing anode......wrap a few turns of white teflon tape around threads before replacing.
And be sure to open the preasure relief valve at the top of the tank before you remove the anode.
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Old 10-18-2016, 05:07 AM   #4
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If you are just draining, release the pressure by either opening a hot water faucet or the pressure relief on top of the heater. Then unscrew the anode rod. When you replace it, be sure to use some teflon tape on the threads.

If you need a check on the bypass to be sure the WH is isolated, try pumping some water through after draining the WH tank. If the bypass is correct, water will flow out the hot water faucets, and not out the anode rod opening.
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Old 10-18-2016, 03:47 PM   #5
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This may help for the valve positions when by-passing.

When I empty the WH, I leave the pressure relief closed until after I've removed the anode so it doesn't flow full force when I'm standing there. I find it's easier to open the pressure relief valve from the side to avoid getting wet.
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Old 10-18-2016, 04:42 PM   #6
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Thanks all...
I just picked up a 1 1/16 socket, and I'm gonna get after it.

I'm sure I'm not the only one getting ready to do this, so keep the great suggestions coming!
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Old 10-18-2016, 04:50 PM   #7
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The main function of the bypass valves is to divert the antifreeze from entering the H/W heater.


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Old 10-18-2016, 07:26 PM   #8
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Here is an excel spreadsheet copied over to a word doc. I use this to winterize every year. Good luck buddy
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Old 10-18-2016, 09:16 PM   #9
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You also have the option to drain at least 90% of the water in the heater by just leaving the bypass system in "Normal Use Mode" while you drain the rest of the system with the 2 low point drain valves and the hot and cold knobs on the sink faucet full open. Even if the small remaining amount of water in the heater freezes, it is in an un-restricted area and will not cause any damage.

After fully gravity draining, set the heater valves to bypass and add antifreeze to the system. Don't forget to drain the freshwater tank, add anti freeze, and then run the pump to push the antifreeze through the system. You should remove the water filter element before this if you plan to use it again next season. Personally, I replace the element every spring when de-winterizing.

Also, don't forget to purge the outside shower circuit. I use 3 gallons total of anti-freeze when I do my T12.
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Old 10-18-2016, 09:35 PM   #10
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Lots of You Tube videos on the subject. Do a search for one close to the same RV that you have.
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Old 10-19-2016, 10:46 AM   #11
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And be sure to open the preasure relief valve at the top of the tank before you remove the anode.
Just leave the pump off and open a hot water faucet, BEFORE you isolate the heater with the valves. I was a plumber for many years, and those things dont like to be treated like an on off switch. They can develop leaks if you dont just leave them be.
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Old 10-19-2016, 10:56 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by itat View Post
This may help for the valve positions when by-passing.

When I empty the WH, I leave the pressure relief closed until after I've removed the anode so it doesn't flow full force when I'm standing there. I find it's easier to open the pressure relief valve from the side to avoid getting wet.
Excellent diagram - thanks for sharing!
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Old 10-19-2016, 12:05 PM   #13
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OK, I think I got it done.

A couple things I don't think were mentioned in case someone else refers to this thread:

Check the under sink filter canister. We didn't install the filter, yet the canister was full with water, that didn't get removed with air pressure, or opening drain valves.

For some reason, I didn't think the sink had a p trap, since there isn't a grey water holding tank on our unit.
I couldn't seem to remove the trap to drain it, so I blew air into the sink drain, and the water came out the side of the A frame drain.

I think I'm done!
Please leave more comments for the future new A frame owners.
Thanks again for the help!
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Old 12-14-2016, 09:59 PM   #14
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Just winterized my 2016 T21TBHW using the compressed air method. I have always hated filling the lines of my Jayco camper with antifreeze because it takes so long to flush the sytem and we have several trips down south planned this winter.

In addition to draining and blowing out all the lines and removing and draining the cannister filter I found a small, for lack of a better description, sediment bowl attached to the water pump. It did not drain. Look for one on your system. It was not described in my manual.

Finally i disconnected th water line at the water pump and found it full of water that did not drain.

Perhaps these wold not have caused problems but better to be safe.
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