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Old 04-25-2015, 10:04 AM   #1
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New A122 hardside A-frame questions

Just brought home our new popup. Could someone please walk me through the steps for using the hot water tank and heater? Thank you!
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Old 04-25-2015, 10:08 AM   #2
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Howdy JC Slugger, I moved your post to it's own thread.

This FAQ may help in the understanding/operation of the water heater if you have the Suburban brand:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ore-36197.html

When you also stated heater, were you referring to the furnace or still the water heater?
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Old 04-25-2015, 10:29 AM   #3
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Thank you for the info. I will start reading now. I meant the hot water heater.
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Old 04-25-2015, 02:49 PM   #4
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So I have the SW4D water heater. So I don't have the electric option. My next question is, can I fill the water heater tank from city water rather than the holding tank? And am I correct in assuming that I must have the propane on at all times and the water heater switch turned on at all times. Or can I turn them on only when I expect to use them at a camp site (i.e. just before taking showers?) Thank you
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Old 04-26-2015, 09:00 AM   #5
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Your water heater runs on propane, so the propane tank valve must be open whenever you want to use the heater. If you haven't used the propane for awhile, it can be helpful to light a stove top burner to make sure the propane lines are purged of air and propane is flowing.

Your water heater will fill from either city water hookup (make sure you have turned on the water valve at the hookup!) or from your water holding tank (make sure the water pump in turned on and the tank is at least 1/3 full). You can turn off the water heater switch, water pump switch and propane when not in use, but remember that it can take about 20 minutes for cold water in the heater to warm up.
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Old 04-26-2015, 09:10 AM   #6
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Water Heater

Thank you, Big Vic!

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Old 04-27-2015, 09:30 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by JC Slugger View Post
Just brought home our new popup. Could someone please walk me through the steps for using the hot water tank and heater? Thank you!
In addition to Big Vic's info, the water heater has a winterizing bypass kit installed. Unless you live in a sub-tropical area of the country, you will want to prep your camper with RV anti-freeze at the start of winter. You can reach the water heater (and some other appliances) by removing the plywood on the top of the service side bench. This is also good to know just in case the dealer left it set on bypass.
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Old 05-05-2015, 06:20 AM   #8
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A related question about draining water -

so, if you drain out all of the water from the main water drain line valve, does the hot water tank remain filled with water?

It looks like removal of the anode is the only way to drain the hot water tank...
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Old 05-05-2015, 07:20 AM   #9
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New A frame questions

Yes, if you want to drain the water heater, and you should whenever you want to winterize your system, you will want to remove the anode. Many of these take a 1-1/16 socket, usually on a 1/2-inch drive. A small extension makes this easier. Some say leave the anode out over the winter, some say it doesn't matter. Jury's still out as far as I know. Another benefit to this is it provides an opportunity for you to see what condition your anode is in, and whether it needs to be replaced.

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Old 05-05-2015, 07:50 AM   #10
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Another benefit to this is it provides an opportunity for you to see what condition your anode is in, and whether it needs to be replaced.
And yet another benefit is you'll see how easy it will be to replace the anode with a Hott Rod or similar unit. Adding an electric conversion saves using propane when you have shore power available. And you can heat the water a lot faster when used in combination with the propane. For dry camping you'll still have the stock propane setup.
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Old 05-05-2015, 08:23 AM   #11
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Exclamation Questions

Well, I'll be darned; didn't know such a thing even existed!

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Old 05-05-2015, 09:18 AM   #12
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Well, I'll be darned; didn't know such a thing even existed!
I'm always reminding my wife that a RV, or a Harley, is nothing but the equivalent of a "Barbie Doll" for "grown up" boys. The initial cost is just the beginning, it is the accessorizing that is really expensive!
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Old 05-05-2015, 09:55 AM   #13
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Questions

So it is. I'm in the process of rigging an HDTV antenna into the unit to get TV weather/news when we are away from the stations. I have an antenna, have hooked it up and discovered that it works, pulling in stations over 30 miles away. Now I have to rig the trailer so that it's quick and easy to put up and take down the antenna. Then I think we're home not quite free. Got about $45 invested in it.

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Old 05-06-2015, 02:22 PM   #14
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so, if you drain out all of the water from the main water drain line valve, does the hot water tank remain filled with water?

It looks like removal of the anode is the only way to drain the hot water tank...
Make sure that you open the pressure relief valve on the top of the heater before removing the anode or you will get a refreshing bath...I drain the heater after every trip - the water in the heater can get pretty foul smelling if it sits there for a long time.
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Old 05-07-2015, 07:42 PM   #15
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Question about the H

About that Hott Rod replacing the anode -

Since the anode serves a purpose as a "neutralizer", if you switch to a Hott Rod, what happens to that neutralizing? Is it handled by the Hott Rod, or lost?
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Old 05-07-2015, 07:52 PM   #16
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The Hott Rod acts as the anode. Since it is stainless steel you need to clean it off periodically with something like CLR. Or you can buy a replacement heating element as necessary.
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