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Old 08-08-2013, 09:03 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Tony w View Post

Thanks very much for the comments and links. I ordered a small battery powered fan from Camping world for the inside of the fridge. this one had better reviews.

I like the fin mounted unit better, but am a little nervous about running the wire to the outside of the fridge and finding a spot to wire it in. I saw a solution of the E-bay website where these are sold. has anyone actually done that on their A frame camper? There is no interior light in my fridge, which makes it a little harder.

I also like the idea of a fan on the outside to help move the hot air through the vented areas. From people's comments, it sounds like this might help more than any other mod you can add. Would this require wires from a power source to the fan mounted on the vent door that would make it harder to open the compartments without pulling a wire off the vent. Or....are they mounted right inside the compartment, allowing you to remove the vented doors as I can do now?

Assuming I add the fan inside the outside compartments, I would have to remember to shut it off when not using the unit? I would assume that it would continue to run if not shut off. I saw a solar powered unit on E-bay. Anyone installed that?

Hi tony - the first link Deb posted above is the double heat sink mod i did from the ebay seller. obtaining power was not a big deal at all and i didnt even have to drill a hole (there was already one there for the temperature probe) - feed your fan wire through and tap into one of the 12V wires on the other side. i posted more detail in the post and can post a pic of the wiring setup next time i have the camper out and will update the original post.

my first solution was the blue battery powered unit that you're probably speaking of - it worked alright but was cheaply made and only lasted a season.

outside fan is also an option, although you can probably just do the first step of baffling that area a bit (following one of the other guides) and that alone should give an improvement. power for the outside fan would be done same as for the inside, leveraging an existing 12v source. you could add an inline switch if you wanted but probably not necessary, these little fans dont draw too much juice and if you are disconnecting the battery when not camping, its a non-issue in my opinion. not a reason alone to get solar IMHO.

as to disconnecting, my unit has a master inline blade fuse close to the battery on the main positive line - i just pull that out when not in use and everything is powered down - i have heard later models dont have that fuse so you could look at various battery disconnect options. marine battery disconnects are a good place to start if you want to go that route.

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Old 08-15-2013, 11:05 AM   #12
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Join Date: Aug 2013
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Thanks to all for the great ideas and explanations. Lots of food for thought. I will be in the camper for 12 days starting next week and will try to implement some of your suggestions.

The only thing I still do not understand is the "baffling" mentioned for the outside vent doors. Could someone explain that a little more or point me to a thread that describes it? That idea appeals to me because it does not involve any wires/fans/switches. Sounds like a passive way to get better airflow over the outside coils.

Thanks again,


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Old 08-15-2013, 11:13 AM   #13
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I normally put a freezer bad of ice in when heading out this helps cool the frig and gives me ice for my drinks. So far I've found very little of the ice will melt.
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Old 08-15-2013, 01:21 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Tony w View Post
The only thing I still do not understand is the "baffling" mentioned for the outside vent doors.
this post has some pictures that explain it better its basically just using a material to create some separation between the top radiator and bottom radiator, so that airflow moving from bottom to top can only go one way, through the top radiator.

in the OEM setup, the top radiator is just floating out there in the middle of the space and so a good portion of air moves around in the space without drawing any heat away from the top radiator fins. by closing off the space around those fins, you create only one path for the cooling air, THROUGH the fins, this increasing efficiency - some even wire up a 12v computer fan to pump up the efficiency even more.
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Old 08-18-2013, 04:24 PM   #15
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Baffles are needed on folding trailers because the ventilation for the fridge is quite poor. The fridge releases heat at the top coils that should make an air current that draws air from the bottom over the top coils to the outside. Tall campers have a vent that is above the coils while our have a vent that is beside the coil and thus has poor ventilation.

On pop ups, when air heated by the coils and goes into the upper vented area and the baffle forces replacement air to be drawn in from the cooler lower vent. Otherwise the heated air in the upper area will recirculate over the hot coil, making the fridge less efficient.


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