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Old 07-09-2014, 06:30 PM   #11
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It's going to depend upon the type of AC unit you have in the trailer. My trailer came with a Frigidaire window mounted unit and was designed for 15 amp household outlets. Its cooling draw is 4.8 amps. They don't state the start up draw but it shouldn't be much more given it normal usage is in a house. I believe the unit in the A128S is a 9000 BTU Dometic Cool Cat so it should draw less power than the more common RV AC units. I couldn't find the model but other Dometic 9000 BTU units look to require a little less than 8 amps for AC.
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Old 07-09-2014, 06:30 PM   #12
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You've also gotta watch what else might be on that circuit. For instance, at my house I plug into the garage, which also has the Central Vac, an upright freezer, a second 'pop' fridge and the water sprinkler controls. My AC might be able to run as long as none of those also need power, but if say the freezer needs to kick it's compressor on, then I'll blow the circuit breaker.

Since you keep the trailer at home anyways, your best bet, in the long run, is to run a dedicated circuit for the trailer and put it on a 30 amp (or 50 amp if you ever plan to upgrade) breaker. If I was allowed to keep my camper at home for more than a day or two at a time then that's what I'd be doing.
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Old 07-09-2014, 06:35 PM   #13
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Another thing to check is if the circuit is running anything else in the house. I know the circuit that is wired to the outlet in our garage is also the circuit that run the outlet to the refrig in the kitchen. The 20 amp breaker will not run both.
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Old 07-09-2014, 07:32 PM   #14
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This is what happens when you run your a/c for long periods on 15 amp.


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Old 07-09-2014, 07:41 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith_h View Post
I believe the unit in the A128S is a 9000 BTU Dometic Cool Cat so it should draw less power than the more common RV AC units. I couldn't find the model but other Dometic 9000 BTU units look to require a little less than 8 amps for AC.
as he said, the OP has one of the smaller A-frame folding campers that should have the 9000 btu Cool Cat a/c, so it should easily run on 15 amp hookups.

doesn't have a 13.5 or larger a/c, like most of the ones that posted here.
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Old 07-09-2014, 07:50 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaadk View Post

Since you keep the trailer at home anyways, your best bet, in the long run, is to run a dedicated circuit for the trailer and put it on a 30 amp (or 50 amp if you ever plan to upgrade) breaker. If I was allowed to keep my camper at home for more than a day or two at a time then that's what I'd be doing.
This never hurts, and is good advice. As an aside kinda off-topic thing...if anyone does take this route, we keep a handy pdf file in the FAQ section here on Forest River Forums on how to properly wire a 120 volt 30 amp outlet for RV's. It is a sticky there.

We have had many an electrician wire it incorrectly for 240 volts. This pdf is good to print out, and hand out, to make sure.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...let-27223.html
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Old 07-09-2014, 08:00 PM   #17
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If I'd had a camera back in the "old" days when I was a wee rv'er some 15 years ago, I'd have some pictures to show. We stayed at a state park(that will remain nameless). I had my TT plugged into a probably 15 amp receptacle with no breaker. Used my 25' extension and had the A/C, water heater on electric, refridge on electric, along with tv and lights. Had to pry the adapter off of the receptacle and replaced the end of the power cord that was completely melted. I still don't know why a breaker wasn't thrown until the BOSS turned on her hair dryer. Had coffee every morning. I'm laughing as I type this but it is all true! I had to replace 2 more power cord ends before I sold that TT and I believe this trip was the start of those troubles.

Can anybody count the no-no's I did back then?

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Old 07-09-2014, 09:01 PM   #18
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I would also get a time delay fuse for the 15 amp outlet, just in case. You could also shut off the breakers to the other AC draws in the camper.

I posted this in another thread. Read with a clamp on AC ammeter.

just the fan 2.25 amps
initial compressor kick in 18 amps
compressor running 9 amps
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Old 07-09-2014, 09:15 PM   #19
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David, just remember when reading replies, many of the AC units being discussed are bigger than our Coolcats and pull more amps.

I have run mine for short periods with acceptable voltage drop from a 15 amp circuit with a plug that was a short distance from the breaker box. So it really just depends for you how far the wire run is from the breaker box and how much voltage drop there will be. If you need to add an extension cord, make sure it is 12 gauge and as short as possible, then measure the voltage. A 10 gauge cord may be needed for any substantial length, sorry that I cannot clarify "may" and substantial" for you here. I believe an abundance of caution is warranted when mixing homes, RVs and electricity. That said, I am planning to run my Coolcat off a 20 amp plug at the nearby state park in a week. Just my $0.02.
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Old 07-09-2014, 09:20 PM   #20
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We have had many an electrician wire it incorrectly for 240 volts. This pdf is good to print out, and hand out, to make sure.l[/url]
The licensed electrician that installed mine did just that. "That big plug is 120V?" Then the dufas tried (and failed) to bill me for the additional time it took to do the proper wiring.
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