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Old 06-11-2013, 05:14 PM   #1
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Pooneil's Mods

After just finished my first mod, I am taking a few minutes to show it off a bit.

On my Niagara I built a platform to make use of the space over the water heater, located in the storage trunk, to hold my Bal Leveler. While there heater in the AFrame trunk, the tall size makes for a lot of dead room. So I decided to make a Bal platform to make the space more efficient. It holds the Bal securely and has room for chocks, my torque wrench, a socket for the stabilisers and a gadget to crank the front jack with a drill.


Here is the before photo


IMG_0295 by b2220128, on Flickr

And After

IMG_0303 by b2220128, on Flickr

The whole set
Bal Storage Platform - a set on Flickr
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Old 06-11-2013, 06:21 PM   #2
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Nice mod!!!!!
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:33 PM   #3
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"...and a gadget to crank the front jack with a drill."

Please say more about this item, Tom. Did you make it, or buy it somewhere? It seems like the perfect new thing for me to get. Is it in one of the pictures on Flikr?
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:12 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by thehamguy1 View Post
"...and a gadget to crank the front jack with a drill."

Please say more about this item, Tom. Did you make it, or buy it somewhere? It seems like the perfect new thing for me to get. Is it in one of the pictures on Flikr?
I made it from stuff on hand. I took a piece of aluminum bar stock, made a notch in it that would go over the round part in the middle of the jack crank. Trimmed the other end to fit inside an old spark plug socket. Then drilled a hole in a socket and put a screw threw it into the aluminum. It isn't pretty, but on par with my metal working skills by being functional.

The only thing to add to it is some shrink tubing to make sure it holds together.

You can see it in the bottom right of this image.

IMG_0304 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:22 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pooneil View Post
I made it from stuff on hand. I took a piece of aluminum bar stock, made a notch in it that would go over the round part in the middle of the jack crank. Trimmed the other end to fit inside an old spark plug socket. Then drilled a hole in a socket and put a screw threw it into the aluminum. It isn't pretty, but on par with my metal working skills by being functional.

The only thing to add to it is some shrink tubing to make sure it holds together.

You can see it in the bottom right of this image.

IMG_0304 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
crunchman

Try here: Liftco Crank Handle Drill Attachments
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:32 PM   #6
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Those seem to be for stabilizers. I needed one for the tongue jack. My stabilisers use a standard 3/4 socket.
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:09 PM   #7
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Do you have anything for the Bal leveler? I used this a couple of times already and I get a good workout raising the rig.
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:33 PM   #8
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I use my battery powered drill to raise it. You need a socket (3/4" IIRC) with a universal joint to raise it up very high or the camper side will interfere with the drill. A strong drill makes quick work of a tough job. I have the ratcheting wrench that came with the Bal somewhere, but haven't gotten all my stuff out of the garage and into the new trailer. Fortunately those drills are getting cheaper and better as time goes on.
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Old 06-16-2013, 04:15 PM   #9
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LED lights

I put in my LED lights last night. They will do quite nicely. Thanks to rawlus for leading me to them.

Like all LEDs I have used they have a slightly odd light. Looking directly at them they are brighter than the incandescent bulbs but they don't seem to light objects quite as well. I attribute this to a somewhat limited spectrum of light not providing as broad of a "bounce back" as the incandescent, but don't know for sure. Also like other LEDs, they have a slightly "sickly" cast much like the LEDs I have at home, when they are dimmed.

Not to worry, they light well and will sip power compared to the hot and thirsty incandescents. And of course are much higher tech with a more favorable cool factor, because we know what is really important.


OEM Lights by b2220128, on Flickr


LED LIghts by b2220128, on Flickr
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:08 PM   #10
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Very nice.
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:44 PM   #11
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Very nice.
Thanks. My battery kept the camper lit and cool this weekend despite the 95 degree daytime heat. Now I need to get a 12V outlet to power the indoor fan, instead of the 8 D cells.
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:47 PM   #12
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What a smart way to use the space for the Bal!!
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Old 08-14-2013, 07:50 AM   #13
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Not really a camper mod, but... I had the camper at the shop to replace the apex seal, something they did in one day. The new seal is slightly thinner, so hopefully won't get caught when opening the top. Re-sourcing the seal might also explain the wait for the part, or it could just be FR was busy preparing for the rally.

On the way back, I swung by my local trailer shop and had them install a longer drawbar. So now the truck tailgate can be lowered without striking the jack, when the trailer is right behind. I had scratched my ball way too much, so they gave me a nice shiny new one.

I had them put the plate on where the sway bar ball is supposed to go, but without the ball on it. So now I have a step up to the bumper for use when loading kayaks.
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Old 08-14-2013, 07:21 PM   #14
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Sounds very convenient.
OK Pooneil, you know the drill...pics man! We need pics!!

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Old 08-14-2013, 08:54 PM   #15
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I thought the drawbar was a bit too mundane to deserve pics. Let me get some non skid material on their and I'll take one. It should come in handy on my Labor Day trip because we are taking boats.
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Old 08-17-2013, 07:25 PM   #16
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Attached are three pictures of my mods that might interest the group:

1) rain guard or rain shield for the small side window......1x4 at sides attached to trailer with velcro. 1/2" PVC across bottom for strength. A dinner place mat stapled to the 1x4 edge. No velcro along top edge for now but might be needed. We'll see. I did leave a 1" overlap at top for the place mat. It is the thickest mat I could find at Walmart and was the exact size I needed.. After installing I was quite surprised at how sturdy it is even without velcro on the top edge.

2) Shelf under front dinette while retaining original dinette stand...... I travel alone so no need to take down the front table. I just place a bit of foam between the table top and the roadside front AFrame sidewall-to-top twist latch. This protects the table as I drive down the road. The plywood is 1/2". If the shelf needs more strength due to the large slot for the stand, I'll add a two piece shelf lip (will not cover the slot) and a quickly removable brace under the shelf for quick/easy the front dinete removal or lowering.

3) The dolly I use to push my trailer around at home........... Trailer fits into standard size garage by a two FULL incles on each side. In my dolly research I did notice that dollys are made that have gas powered engines (for when I get older).and that is not too far in the future.
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Old 08-17-2013, 08:30 PM   #17
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Modifications are like a Zombie Apocalypse! Once bitten, you can't stop!!!!
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Old 08-21-2013, 05:45 PM   #18
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By popular request

I use a folding hitch step on my truck to help in loading kayaks on top of the bed cover.


2013-08-21 15.49.16 by b2220128, on Flickr

When camping, I need the hitch ball in, but sometimes carry kayaks as well. So when I bought the longer draw bar needed to let my tail gate drop while hitched, I had the shop add a side mount for a sway control bar, but without the small ball. It makes a sturdy step and now has some non-slip tape to make it safe to use when wet. I also applied some tape to the tape of the draw bar.


2013-08-21 15.48.14 by b2220128, on Flickr

I show the can so all concerned that no drinking spirits were harmed in the making of this mod.
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Old 08-21-2013, 05:57 PM   #19
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Others have sung the praises of the Bal single tire chock. promising that it will stop the annoying for/aft rolling movement when walking about in a camping trailer. While I have always believed them, I never really thought it would be that noticeable. After my first trip, I decided to Amazon one. It arrived this week and my report is that even with one tire stabilized with the Bal chock and one with traditional chocks, trailer movement is almost nothing.


2013-08-21 16.50.05 by b2220128, on Flickr

I am looking forward to trying it with my Bal leveler. That should provide the rock solid feel others have noted. I am particularly interested in how it will hold when camping on the beach. I was concerned that a traditional chock would slip in the sand. This might also so I have cut a board to go under the tire and provide a stable platform for the Bal chock.
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Old 08-21-2013, 06:02 PM   #20
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Following in well tread steps, I mounted a power strip on the "nightstand" next to the bed.


2013-08-21 16.41.45 by b2220128, on Flickr

In retrospect, I should have run the excess cord down wall beside the bed. I will probably do just that when I install the power strip on the galley. I couldn't do it today because Home Depot didn't have enough command strips in stock. In fact after it is installed if there are a few strips left over, I'll just move the cord.
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