Power jack with no wheel

wayfaringgirl · 09-25-2013, 07:26 AM

I paid for a power jack on my A128S and didn't realize until I got home (400+ miles away) that I had a manual jack. The dealer shipped one to me and I just got around to installing it yesterday. The jack has HH-3500 on it and is a VIP 3500 Power Jack.

That jack came with a plate on the bottom instead of a caster. I called the company H&H Engineering and got a nasty customer service person (isn't that an oxymoron) who said they don't recommend a caster for the power jack because it's off to the side. She wouldn't offer much more than that but I assume they think the caster position puts torque on their power jack when operating. I pointed out this would take pinpoint precision when backing the tow vehicle to hook up the trailer, but she wouldn't respond.

I want a wheel so I can get darn close, but then move the trailer and inch or two to hook up, but then I'm new to all this.

I'd like the opinion of you more experienced folks who have pulled trailers for a long time. What do you think? Anyone using a caster on their power jack?

SurveyorWI · 09-25-2013, 08:14 AM

I had the same issue with my dealer. I was charged for a Power Jack and the dealer switched it out with a manual jack. They then tried to charge me again for the Power Jack. I didn't do that and contacted Forest River about my concern. They installed a Power Jack at no charge when I attended the 2013 Forest River Owner's Rally in Indiana this past August. Not sure how Forest River handled it with the dealer after the fact. As a side note, I don't have a wheel for my power jack but one could be easily installed instead of using the flat plate. At this time I don't have a need for it but don't see why you couldn't use one just to roll it back a few inches, etc.

Brother Les · 09-25-2013, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wayfaringgirl

I paid for a power jack on my A128S and didn't realize until I got home (400+ miles away) that I had a manual jack. The dealer shipped one to me and I just got around to installing it yesterday. The jack has HH-3500 on it and is a VIP 3500 Power Jack.

That jack came with a plate on the bottom instead of a caster. I called the company H&H Engineering and got a nasty customer service person (isn't that an oxymoron) who said they don't recommend a caster for the power jack because it's off to the side. She wouldn't offer much more than that but I assume they think the caster position puts torque on their power jack when operating. I pointed out this would take pinpoint precision when backing the tow vehicle to hook up the trailer, but she wouldn't respond.

I want a wheel so I can get darn close, but then move the trailer and inch or two to hook up, but then I'm new to all this.

I'd like the opinion of you more experienced folks who have pulled trailers for a long time. What do you think? Anyone using a caster on their power jack?

You will have to buy a caster wheel separately. The bottom plate on the power jack will come off. The caster wheel will slip right in, as long as you get the right type of wheel for the jack end. take the caster wheel off every time you pull the unit or you will at some time down the road smash it on something.

avolnek · 09-25-2013, 08:33 AM

Do NOT put a caster on the front jack... It does put added stress on the point that the jack attaches to the A frame of camper. It also isn't nearly as stable once you are set and "camping" as the wheel allows the tongue to move too easily.

No offense but you need to be precise when backing up to the rig to drop the ball on! Look at a number of the campers on here, mine included, that are 30' + feet with tongue weights over 1,000 LBS... There is no way I am going to move the tongue around to get it to set on the ball.

You will learn tricks while doing this. I generally will no back up perfectly under the ball. I would rather be a 1/2" or so too far forward so the camper will actually pull the truck back when hitching. I do this to make sure that locking mechanism doesn't get bound up. I also don't fret if I am a half a ball width off to one side as I can set the camper on top of it and take some of the weight off the jack and then just push/pull the tongue to get it to drop on...

Just my $0.02 NO WHEEL...

**wmtire** · 09-25-2013, 08:33 AM

Howdy and welcome to the forums Gale. I wouldn't believe you would really want a swivel caster on a camper trailer, as you need it to be stable as all possible when unhooked/camping........especially since you use the tongue jack to level the camper fore and aft.

You could attach a removable swivel caster, but this would get to be a pain...installing and removing it.

I don't have a light travel trailer, so I probably couldn't move mine even if it was on a swivel caster.

Here is how I did solve my problem of hooking up, perfect EVERY time. Just throwing other options out there for you:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ply-33506.html

Feel free to private message me if you have any questions or concerns.

OldCoot · 09-25-2013, 08:36 AM

The caster wheel will also put a undue amount of side loading on the jack as well as being difficult to turn if the wheel is pointing forward/back and you need to move the tongue side to side. IMO, practice lining up and forget the caster.

**dcheatwood** · 09-25-2013, 08:40 AM

My 05 Jayco (4400# dry) came with wheel and pad. I could not move it on my level driveway with the wheel. Found it useless and gave it to my father in law. Brownie points. You can buy the wheels at Tractor Supply if you have one nearby.

KMP44 · 09-25-2013, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcheatwood

My 05 Jayco (4400# dry) came with wheel and pad. I could not move it on my level driveway with the wheel. Found it useless

X2. Our 2000# popup had a manual jack with a wheel, but there is no way you were going to push it even 6". And, when un-hooking on any slope at all, it makes the trailer very prone to roll. Wheel chocks keep it from moving from front to back, but the tongue could roll sideways as well. I had a plastic "dog dish" (not really, was made for the tongue wheel) that I put down for this, but then you can't push the trailer even if you have a small army to help push it.

So I would recommend the power jack and keep the flat plate. My son (11) decided I needed a backup camera, so he organized the family to get me one for Father's Day. He picked out the Eyeball Hitch Cam. It works very well to get within an inch or two of the ball - its hard to judge depth on the 2D screen sometimes, so I find it is still helpful to have a spotter or I get out and take a look if by myself for that last little bit, but overall it is super simple and works well to simplify the process. No yelling or arguing whether the problem lies with the driver or the director!!

iBall Wireless Trailer Hitch Camera | iBall Wireless Trailer Hitch Camera

Bryan2503S · 09-25-2013, 09:34 AM

Although I will probably get camera eventually for backing and security, right now i use these.

Amazon.com: Camco 44603 Magnetic Hitch Alignment Kit: Automotive

Silly looking - YES ......Effective - VERY

**KyDan** · 09-25-2013, 10:37 AM

Hi Gale and welcome to the FRF!!

I wonder if you must hitch alone?? Do you have someone who can
watch for you when you're backing up to the trailer?
If you're doing it alone that does make it more difficult!
There are options that some have mentioned here-
cameras, special mirrors, some sort of magnetic stick with a ball on the
end??

I will have to agree with others that you really don't want a wheel on there.
Even a -slight- incline (and what parking lot, driveway is perfectly flat?)
can allow your trailer to move. It might move without warning.
It might move and crush your hand or your legs or toes!
I've seen with my own eyes a small trailer roll off the back of a camp ground
pad and into the woods below!
It's not a pretty sight.

Don't worry about the wheel. You are better off without it.
If you absolutely positively WANT one no matter what you can get them
at Harbor Freight and the previously mentioned Tractor Supply.
I've got one in my junk pile in my garage but it would cost more to mail
it than it's worth.....

Good luck and Happy Camping!!

Pooneil · 09-25-2013, 10:53 AM

Contrary to others experience, I find moving an A-Frame to be easy and very useful. Last Sunday, I didn't get my A-Frame aligned well when backing in behind my garage. I was too close to the fence and didn't want to pull out and restart. So I just chocked the wheels and unhitched. Once it was off the hitch, I lowered the front to a low level, to minimize the extension of the jack, moved the back chocks and pushed it about six feet. It was not very difficult at all across level concrete and I hit my spot easily.

Whether this is a good idea for a power jack, I don't know, but if there is a concern, then a manual trailer dolly is the fix. A-Frames are easy to move around.

Proper chocking of the tires will give you a smooth platform so that you will not notice any movement in the front wheel. Once I started using a Bal single axle tire chock, my days of wiggling trailers ended. I have a "dog bowl" for the front wheel, but have found it necessary only where the ground is soft, particularly at the beach.

1A Camper · 09-25-2013, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wayfaringgirl

I want a wheel so I can get darn close, but then move the trailer and inch or two to hook up, but then I'm new to all this.

I'd like the opinion of you more experienced folks who have pulled trailers for a long time. What do you think? Anyone using a caster on their power jack?

Gail

I have been hooking up to trailer for 30 plus years, and some had wheels, that you could not remove, on them. The wheel does put a lot of stress on the shaft but I never had a failure. I would think that a power lift would have a motor instead of a handle to crank so I do not see how a wheel is going to be any different on a power lift. Plus the A Fame is light, so again I see no problem. My A Frame came with manual lift with a removable wheel. I do not use it, I get within about an 1/2" to an 1" and then drop it down on the ball. I think that I am now putting more stress on the lift then when I used the wheel as it had more wiggle.
As other have said be careful on non flat sites.

itat · 09-25-2013, 12:15 PM

The OP is talking about an A-Frame popup that weighs well under 2000 lbs so it would have maybe 200 lbs. on the jack. Having a caster on the power jack and moving the trailer a few inches should not be an issue as long as its not extended too far and you're cautious about it rolling if your hooking up on a somewhat steep grade. My previous 1999 Coleman 10' popup came from the factory with a caster on the manual jack and I used that many times to move the Coleman around to my liking on tight campsites.

Some people expressed a concern about stress on the jack, but when I unhitch in my driveway, I wonder if it might actually take stress off the jack. My driveway has a fairly good incline up to the garage from the street and I have to raise the tongue about 4' off the ground to get the trailer level. I do that by lifting it in 2 or 3 steps using axle stands and stacks of 2x10s cut into 12" squares. As the jack extends and the angle to the ground increases, there's more stress on the jack as the plate doesn't move. If I had a caster on the jack, the stress on the shaft of the jack could be relieved and the trailer will be held in place by the chocks.

avolnek · 09-25-2013, 12:32 PM

I will stand by my answer that I don't feel a wheel would be a wise idea. I don't feel it's really a topic to discuss/argue but it is happening obviously.

To me a wheel is only a crutch to "ease" certain steps... This is going to sound arrogant and I apologize up front as I am far from perfect. I feel that one should learn to be able to hook to the trailer with minimal movement of the tongue of the trailer IE no wheel. I also feel when it comes to parking it as stated above one needs to be able to use the TV to get it placed as they would like/need. I have always been taught and tried to live my life making things as easy on myself and my body as possible. This being said I choose to use the TV to do as much of the work as physically possible! I don't want to exert any more force than I need to at any given time! I feel this way even more so in the world of trailers as 2,000 can still cause life altering damage! Just simply trying to push the tongue a little ways with a caster can throw ones back out very simply...

Arefbee · 09-25-2013, 01:24 PM

When I had a pup years ago the caster was really helpful for parking it behind the garden shed and I've seen other users at CGs use them to help get lined up. On a level surface using some common sense it is a safe enough choice. Take a look at the vid I linked earlier from Top Gear (under Jokes & Humor) - the hosts manually position a "full sized" (European scale) trailer with a caster.

That device does not have a caster option because the VIP 3500 has a 3500 lb limit and a caster would probably be bent pretty quickly under that load. We have the same model on our 27 foot TT. Your trailers gross weight is about 3000 lbs, so that it is a bit of overkill.

Your current device can't be (easily) converted. I believe there are other products out there that can do the job you want.

Of course there is always plan C - Keep the manual jack if it has a wheel.

wayfaringgirl · 09-25-2013, 01:24 PM

Thanks for all the responses.

Prior to this camper purchase all of my towing has been boats or jet skis and all those trailers had wheels and some of the boats I was involved with were longer than my camper. Most of that experience was assisting, not operating the TV so I have limited trailering, backing, hooking up experience.

My thought was to take both the plate and the wheel on trips and use whichever seemed appropriate. I purchased wheel chocks and use them when parked in the garage and take them with me when traveling.

Bryan2503S I bought those Camco things as soon as I got the camper -- they really help and I love them.

All of my hooking up to the trailer is solo so I have to keep practicing. I envy you folks with years and years of comfort with trailering.

Pooneil · 09-25-2013, 01:29 PM

Never mind!

**dcheatwood** · 09-25-2013, 03:30 PM

My apologies to op. I missed that you were speaking of a small trailer. Yes, you could definitely move that around on a level, smooth surface. My bass boat is heavier and I push and pull it from the garage by hand. Again, sorry I misspoke.

wayfaringgirl · 09-25-2013, 03:39 PM

When I had a jet ski I could roll that all over the place so there never was a need to learn how to back up to it. That one has come back to bite me.

And yes -- my little Rockwood A128S rolls pretty easily on level ground, but it's still big enough it could hurt me if it got out of control so I will keep in mind all the safety suggestions.

You should see me back the trailer into a single garage door opening. I back a little, get out and check, back a little, check again. It takes a while. I only have 9" on each side and I'd rather go slow than tear up the trailer or the garage. I'm sure all you experienced people would get a good laugh out of watching me.

OldCoot · 09-25-2013, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wayfaringgirl

When I had a jet ski I could roll that all over the place so there never was a need to learn how to back up to it. That one has come back to bite me.

And yes -- my little Rockwood A128S rolls pretty easily on level ground, but it's still big enough it could hurt me if it got out of control so I will keep in mind all the safety suggestions.

You should see me back the trailer into a single garage door opening. I back a little, get out and check, back a little, check again. It takes a while. I only have 9" on each side and I'd rather go slow than tear up the trailer or the garage. I'm sure all you experienced people would get a good laugh out of watching me.

I doubt experienced people would laugh because to get the experience, we all have done exactly what you do and still do it. Back, stop, look, back, stop, look... That's what experience teaches you. Have fun and enjoy your trailer.

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