If/when the alarm sounds again (assuming on battery), run a battery voltage check right away (volt meter on the battery). If the battery is above 12.2 volts, the alarm should not be sounding for low battery. The battery can be run down surprisingly fast just through normal and parasitic loads.
And if you have a household CO alarm with digital display, you can check against the household alarm for actual CO.
This is a 550 CCA deep cycle marine battery, one year old. I had it this last time on shore power for 24 hours, then battery for Fri morn till Sunday nite. When tested last Thursday it showed 12.4 on volt meter. Son said that's fine. It sat for 9 days with no charge in Ohio two weeks ago with no problem, then charged overnight at camp ground coming back to Florida. I figure it is just plain defective now. Manual said it would not alarm until down to 7-8 amps as I recall. How is that the battery can be maintained by plugging it in couple days a month and this current situation is not sufficient to keep the alarm off?
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Dobe Fanatic - Largo, Florida
2012 Flagstaff T12RB A-Frame
Lets cut to the chase. Put aside the low battery issues these units are junk and have to be replaced every 2 years. They age out much quicker than the label or specs make you believe and start giving false alarms and get super sensitive to anything. The manufacturer rarely honors their warranty. You can try like I did to leave messages but no one will call you back or replace it. I just figure i will spend $62.00 every 2 tears. I'd like to buy another manufacturer but I don't want to re-craft the hole it's mounted in. Search this forum and you will find lengthy threads on this manner and failure of these units. Someone from Safety Alert actually came on here and offered a bunch of BS about these 'great' units. Ya sure.
After reading all the posts, I (with experience) can tell you that if the battery gets down to 7-8 volts, it's dead as a doornail. And those alarms will usually go off at 2:00 am. They will sense any abnormality in the environment. I left the fireplace on too hot one night and the alarm started wailing, probably sensing the fabrics off gassing. The older the detectors get, the more sensitive they get. It'll be soon that you can't shut it off. Mine is wire into the refridge circuit. So if I pull the fuse for the detector, the refridge is killed. For 3+ years I did the shuffle of plugging in the power cord every 2 weeks to charge the battery. After 2 new batteries($$), I finally took the advice and installed a battery disconnect. No more false alarms(after replacing) and no more battery running down.
So if you are parked for a few weeks, charge the battery and install a battery disconnect. And to change out the alarm, it's simple, just 2 wires. The hardest part is paying $85 to get it.
This is a 550 CCA deep cycle marine battery, one year old. I had it this last time on shore power for 24 hours, then battery for Fri morn till Sunday nite. When tested last Thursday it showed 12.4 on volt meter. Son said that's fine. It sat for 9 days with no charge in Ohio two weeks ago with no problem, then charged overnight at camp ground coming back to Florida. I figure it is just plain defective now. Manual said it would not alarm until down to 7-8 amps as I recall. How is that the battery can be maintained by plugging it in couple days a month and this current situation is not sufficient to keep the alarm off?
First, if your battery is spec'd in CCA, it's not a true deep cycle. It's likely a combination starting and deep cycle battery, which is what a lot of single battery boats use. A true deep-cycle makes a lousy starting battery, and a true starting battery is destroyed if it is run down to 50% more than 4 times. A good marine combination battery will tolerate maybe a hundred or two deep cycles (down to 50% charge before recharging). True deep-cycle batteries (like golf cart batteries) will endure at least 4 times as many cycles as the marine combination battery.
Second, the converters in the A-frames will often boil away the water in the battery over a period of time because the trickle charge mode is not properly regulated.
The answer (as others have suggested) is to put in a disconnect switch to get rid of the parasitic loads (like the propane/CO alarm) when you are not camping. In my a-frame, the stereo seems to turn itself on to standby at will, adding to the parasitic drains. When you get home from a trip, recharge the battery for a couple of days, then disconnect. A disconnected, fully charged battery will not freeze, and will maintain a good charge for a couple of months. After a couple of months of non-use, I recharge my batteries for a couple of days.
I'll try to post a picture of my disconnect/dual golf cart battery install when I get a chance. I was pleasantly surprised to get 2 nice 6V golf cart batteries for $150 including tax at Costco. These were a perfect fit to replace the two 12V size 24 marine/RV deep cycle I had managed to destroy in less than 2 years. My battery capacity is based on a long weekend (4 nights) of dry camping while running some heat during 30 degree nights in the Rockies.
Fred W
2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
So is there any difference between quick disconnect or my removing the red wire from the battery? And, how does one identify a true deep cycle battery? Mine says deep cycle/ marine and has performed well so far this past year.
Also, related to my prior post, when the camper sat idle for 9 days, that is actually not true as I was driving it for up to 8 hours several of those days so it was charging.
For now the battery is disconnected till I feel like opening the camper for the third time in 3 weeks ! to check out removing this detector/ or replacing it.
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Dobe Fanatic - Largo, Florida
2012 Flagstaff T12RB A-Frame
For a a true deep cycle battery, the main spec is amp-hours (AH), not CCA, not MCA, not RC. The number of amp-hours will be shown prominently either on the spec sheet or on the battery itself. Most commonly, amp-hours will be specified at a 20-hour discharge rate, though some manufacturers may choose other discharge rates. For example on my SunXtender battery, the capacity is specified as 212 amp-hours at a 24 hour rate. What does that mean? It just means that the more amps that you pull out of it, the fewer amp-hours you get. Yeah, it gets a little complicated. I better stop there ... Just look for amp-hours.
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Dan
2012 Rockwood A128 (no S)
2016 Ram Power Wagon 6.4L Hemi 4x4
So is there any difference between quick disconnect or my removing the red wire from the battery? And, how does one identify a true deep cycle battery? Mine says deep cycle/ marine and has performed well so far this past year.
Also, related to my prior post, when the camper sat idle for 9 days, that is actually not true as I was driving it for up to 8 hours several of those days so it was charging.
For now the battery is disconnected till I feel like opening the camper for the third time in 3 weeks ! to check out removing this detector/ or replacing it.
Yes, removing all wires from 1 terminal will disconnect the battery, just like using a disconnect switch. The switch is much more convenient in use and testing - but that's the only difference. I disconnected the red wire until I got around to installing a switch.
Marine/deep cycle batteries are designed as a combination starting and deep cycle battery. The usage profile is to start the engine when you leave the dock or the ramp, charge the battery while on the way to your favorite anchorage, run on battery (stereo, radio. lights) for a few hours while anchored (or trolling), then restart the engine for the run home. A marine/deep cycle has less starting CCA than a car starting battery, and less RC (reserve capacity) than a deep cycle. But it works reasonably for the usage scenario mentioned. Boats that have need for more battery power while at anchor, or do without engine power for longer periods (sailboats) have separate house and starting battery banks. That way, even if the house batteries are at low charge, you have a separate charged battery for starting the engine.
If you boondock or dry camp for a couple of days without outside power, you need more than a single size 24 marine/deep cycle battery. If you always have campground power, what you have is fine.
Fred W
2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame
two 232 AH 6 volt golf cart batteries to dry camp 4 days/nights with night temps as low as high 20s, day temps high 40s or better
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend (sometimes long weekend) at a time
Dobefanatic. Disconnecting one of the battery cables is the same as using a disconnect switch. The switch is just a whole lot easier. As for the battery. If it's labeled "Deep Cycle," that's what should be there. Boaters commonly use Deep Cycle batteries. As for voltage, here's a guide. If the volt meter registers:
12.6 you have 100% of your charge
12.5 - 90%
12.42 - 80%
12.32 - 70%
12.20 - 60%
12.06 - 50%
11.9 - 40%
11.75 - 30%
11.58 - 20%
11.31 - 10%
10.5 - 0%
For all practical purposes, if the voltage measures less than 12, forget it. Buy a new battery. Otherwise, stop fooling around with the battery and buy a new detector.
Kdot
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Location: Wisconsin
2019 Flagstaff E-Pro 19FBS
2017 Honda Pilot
Look here to see how Exide markets the various flavors of marine/RV batteries.
The rule about "true" deep cycle batteries not having CCA marked on the outside is no long viable because at least Exide does mark them with a CCA rating. Manufacturers that have dual starting deep cycle batteries frequently mark them as "dual purpose," as Exide does.
Interstate does not make a 12V deep cycle, only a dual purpose. They do have a 6V deep cycle. IIRC my camper came with an Interstate dual purpose, I suspect it was because it was cheap. It cratered after some abuse that I can't blame the battery for.
Don't trust the guy selling batteries to know the difference, or care. Like so many things, a well informed consumer is likely to know more than the earnest but under-trained sales guy at the store. I had an Interstate drone swear that his battery was a pure deep cycle and perfect for my RV. The best luck I've had is shopping at sporting goods stores that sell trolling motors. And always look out for the date of manufacture, because batteries will self discharge and damage the internals over time.
I use the Exide battery because it is what my local Academy store sells.
The rule about "true" deep cycle batteries not having CCA marked on the outside is no long viable because at least Exide does mark them with a CCA rating. Manufacturers that have dual starting deep cycle batteries frequently mark them as "dual purpose," as Exide does.
I hate to disclaim what my esteemed colleague here says, but actually the argument is opposite to the premise: If a battery is NOT marked with an amp-hour rating, it is not a true deep cycle battery.
Marine batteries are a compromise battery. First, what makes a good starting battery? Lots of thin plates that can deliver a large wallop of amps when demanded. What makes a true deep cycle battery? Fewer thick plates. That construction allows the plates to resist plate erosion for a longer period of time, and enables it to withstand deep discharge. But it does not allow the battery to give that huge wallop of current that a starting battery does. Marine deep cycle batteries are still expected to deliver starting current, but they are also expected to deliver lesser current for a longer time, like to power electric trolling motors. Golf cart batteries, fork lift batteries, off-grid solar batteries and such are not expected to have to start internal combustion engines. They are true deep cycle batteries made with big beefy plates. So that's what is meant when it is said that marine batteries are not true deep cycle batteries.
Sorry. we seem to have gotten off the topic of the post. By the way, I noticed on my recent trip that I need to replace my propane alarm as well. It was going off in the middle of the night on me just because I had baked beans for dinner
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Dan
2012 Rockwood A128 (no S)
2016 Ram Power Wagon 6.4L Hemi 4x4
Sorry. we seem to have gotten off the topic of the post. By the way, I noticed on my recent trip that I need to replace my propane alarm as well. It was going off in the middle of the night on me just because I had baked beans for dinner
Yes, that is tyhe problem with these. they are not very 'smart' to begin with and after about 2 years they age out and are worthless. Safety Alert should be ashamed of themselves.
... By the way, I noticed on my recent trip that I need to replace my propane alarm as well. It was going off in the middle of the night on me just because I had baked beans for dinner
OK, done! Ten minute job. The old one was dated March 2011. It's supposedly a 2012 model year trailer but it was probably built mid-year 2011. The new one cost $88.69 with tax from Amazon and was dated Sep. 8, 2015. Safe-T-Alert model 35-742BR Brown. Now I can fuggedaboudit it for the next couple of years I guess.
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Dan
2012 Rockwood A128 (no S)
2016 Ram Power Wagon 6.4L Hemi 4x4
OK, done! Ten minute job. The old one was dated March 2011. It's supposedly a 2012 model year trailer but it was probably built mid-year 2011. The new one cost $88.69 with tax from Amazon and was dated Sep. 8, 2015. Safe-T-Alert model 35-742BR Brown. Now I can fuggedaboudit it for the next couple of years I guess.
Hope mine will be as easy, also figure it is from 2011 as my unit is a 2012 Flagstaff T12RB. Son will get to it one of these days, hopefully before Spring.
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Dobe Fanatic - Largo, Florida
2012 Flagstaff T12RB A-Frame
I'm going from memory, but I don't see much difference between tables. 50% charge - probably the most important voltage - I've seen pegged at 12.07 and 12.10 - can your meter accurately tell the difference? Current battery loading and/or charging in the past 12 hours will affect voltage reading. Meter impedance differences (amount of load the meter puts on the battery) can also affect the third and fourth decimal places.
Real world is try to keep your battery bank at 12.1 volts or better for decent life expectancy. This assumes no charging in the past 12 hours. If you have load attached while measuring voltage, keeping above 12.1 volts means you are at better than 50% charge for even longer life.
The only real way to accurately know battery state while camping is a device that measures amp-hours in and out. These devices are not cheap, and use the voltage across a known value series resistor to do the measuring.
For the rest of us, having a reasonable guess at amp-hours used and trying to stay above 50% charge by voltage reading is sufficient. You won't squeeze every bit of life out of your batteries that the real battery monitors do, but I have more things while camping than monitoring batteries. I accept replacing batteries every 4-5 years as the cost for my lack of concern.
Fred W
2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame
dual 232AH 6V golf cart batteries (Costco, $150 total) to keep heat running (set at 55 until wake-up) for 4 night dry camping trip with low temps in 30s. LED lights, heater fan, propane/CO detector, water heater control board are only loads
They will sense any abnormality in the environment. I left the fireplace on too hot one night and the alarm started wailing, probably sensing the fabrics off gassing. The older the detectors get, the more sensitive they get. It'll be soon that you can't shut it off. Mine is wire into the refridge circuit. So if I pull the fuse for the detector, the refridge is killed. For 3+ years I did the shuffle of plugging in the power cord every 2 weeks to charge the battery. After 2 new batteries($$), I finally took the advice and installed a battery disconnect. No more false alarms(after replacing) and no more battery running down. 
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