Questions about Forest River Hard Side A-Frame Popups

[asbrand]

Originally Posted by OYO

Forgot to add.: love your slat bed. Woodworking is one of my winter hobbies.

Thanks! I've made 3 of those now. Two twins and a King sized. Once people saw mine, they wanted one.

You can't tell in the photo, but the head/foot/side boards connect to the posts with modern hidden bed rail fasteners. Much easier than actual mortise and tenons.

[asbrand]

Originally Posted by OYO

Here is the link to the thumb locks I used
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...cks-41517.html

The MagicMesh screen is hard to describe. Basically you can walk through it with your hands full and it closes behind you. $8 @ menards, home depot etc. We've had one on our summer cottage for 5-6 years. Probably saved me 20 hours of work and many $ fixing the original sliding screen. For some reason some folks forget there is a door there.

I suggest you use the search function on this site. It is a great tool.

Oh, I've been using the search function. However, sometimes you don't even know what to search for. Thus why I started this thread.

Yeah, I would imagine I'd wanna change out the door locks. Having to use the key every time is a disaster waiting to happen.

[asbrand]

Originally Posted by pjnlorrie

A bit of general info:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1207996

Already read that entire thread. Thanks though!

[Pooneil]

Originally Posted by asbrand

However, I've read a LOT of horror stories about Forest River (all their offerings, not just A-Frames). So, it makes me pause. Hence, why I am here.

Read enough and you will find horror stories about every brand. And following the laws of nature, the bigger selling brands will have more horror stories. Anecdotes are not all that meaningful.

Those of you who have owned a Forest River A-Frame (any model, but especially the High Wall ones), what are the biggest problems? What usually fails first?

The biggest failing on my camper has been the skylights. The only real interior need for them is to allow better headroom for seating at the dinette. That is not an issue for me so if I were to buy again I'd order one without the skylights. The appliances are the same as you get on any folding camper from any manufacturer. But these are lightly built, entry level campers so there will be ongoing repairs and a bit of head scratching at the poor workmanship.

What issues are usually found when buying new, and you pick-up from the dealership, that they have to fix while you wait? How well does the included outside grill work? How about the cassette toilet? The outside shower?

MY PDI when very smoothly. No fixes. This is largely dealer dependent and not a brand issue. I immediately stored the outside grill in the home garage and have never used it. It is awkwardly shaped for storage and I prefer to cook greasy foods away form the camper. Don't count on it for much. I don't have the cassette but did on my prior camper when my kids when with me. I liked it a great deal. They are easy to empty because you can do it in the bath house instead of the RV dump. But while the toilet itself isn't a smell problem, no matter what, going poop in the camper still gives off smells. Your choice.

What mods to people usually do first on these, which are considered essential, if any?

The best first mod you can do is add a fan to the vent the top fridge compartment and a baffle to force airflow over the upper fins. Another is to put a disconnect switch on the battery, particularly if you dry camp at your events. On the interior, I used power strips to make the awkward 120V plugs more accessible and added 12V outlets and a good USB power station. And liberal use of 3M Command hooks.

Good for you in asking all these question before purchasing.

[Roger1984]

Asbrand,
My wife has been going to medieval events for the last couple of years and staying in a non period tent, which I rather not stay in. Our solution for this year and so that I would go was to pickup an A-Frame camper and then cover it to look like a Viking tent. Here are a few before and after pictures. It is still a work in progress and adding small details to it as we go. We have gone to 2 small events so far this summer but are going to Pennsic in a couple weeks. If you are going, we are with Silver Channel, down from the barn.

[asbrand]

Originally Posted by Roger1984

Asbrand,
My wife has been going to medieval events for the last couple of years and staying in a non period tent, which I rather not stay in. Our solution for this year and so that I would go was to pickup an A-Frame camper and then cover it to look like a Viking tent. Here are a few before and after pictures. It is still a work in progress and adding small details to it as we go. We have gone to 2 small events so far this summer but are going to Pennsic in a couple weeks. If you are going, we are with Silver Channel, down from the barn.

Now...that's just nifty. But, is kinda defeating the purpose of me getting an RV. So I don't have to setup a canvas tent. :-D

I went to 7 Pennsics in the 90's. Last one was '97, right before I moved to Atlanta. Just too far of a drive for me now. I go to Gulf Wars every year though. Much closer (6 hours vs 15 hours) and I just like it better.

Tell your wife hello from a fellow SCAdian.

[asbrand]

Another question I just thought of, before I toddle off to bed (I work nights, sleep during the day):

Would I need a weight distribution hitch for the A213HW? Or is it not heavy enough to require it?

Truck does have a 1000+ pound tongue weight.

[Pooneil]

Not needed. Although the rear of my 4X4 Tundra does sag quite a bit. Yours may be sprung differently. I have a shell bed cover on the back of the truck and even with the trailer sag, the rear axle does not get overloaded.

But if you really need to load down the truck toward max cargo weight, one would be helpful. If so, get loaded up and go to a CAT scale to make sure. You will never get close to GCVWR towing an AFrame.

[asbrand]

Originally Posted by Pooneil

Not needed. Although the rear of my 4X4 Tundra does sag quite a bit. Yours may be sprung differently. I have a shell bed cover on the back of the truck and even with the trailer sag, the rear axle does not get overloaded.

But if you really need to load down the truck toward max cargo weight, one would be helpful. If so, get loaded up and go to a CAT scale to make sure. You will never get close to GCVWR towing an AFrame.

Good to know. Appreciate the answer. Yeah, I'm not worried about getting near the GCVWR with one of these. Is one of the reasons I decided to go with an A-Frame, instead of a travel trailer.

Eventually I want to get an in-bed motorcycle lift so I can take my motorcycle AND the RV (whichever I get) at the same time.

[asbrand]

Originally Posted by Butch Wilson

We keep the a frame covered when not in use with a camco cover, tucked away in the tractor shed.

Is there a particular model from Camco that fits these? Or just a generic one?

[mlsa3]

Wife and I have had our A128S for about 2 1/2 years now and love it. Quick and easy to set up...just as easy to take down...don't have to worry about it getting wet and having to set it back up to dry out.

I pull it with a 2012 Durango with 6 cylinder and no problem pulling it.

I put 3M Transparent Tape around all my bubble windows, vent fan because some have had theirs leak....Two weeks after putting the tape on I was camping and we had a 5" rain over night....not a sign of water inside the camper.

I never turn my frig on before hand....I bring along some frozen water bottles and put that in the frig after setting up the camper....within a couple of hours I can put our food inside and it keeps cold all weekend. I have had a couple of bottles of water still partially frozen by the end of the weekend.

I've only used the grill once but it worked fine...never used the stove other than to just light it each time we camp to make sure it still works...we do all our cooking outside.

Love our Aframe.

David

[chuck9997]

Hey mlsa3.. I don't run my fridge while traveling either.. but mostly short trips. How long do you think the frozen water bottles would last? I will be making an approx four hour drive next month in my a122s.

[mlsa3]

Originally Posted by chuck9997

Hey mlsa3.. I don't run my fridge while traveling either.. but mostly short trips. How long do you think the frozen water bottles would last? I will be making an approx four hour drive next month in my a122s.

I would think if you put 4 or 5 regular water bottles frozen inside with the door closed they would still be mostly frozen at the end of 4 hours.

I also have an ice maker and keep baggies of ice inside my frig all the time while camping...they stay frozen the entire weekend and help keep the frig cold.

David

[Pooneil]

I use frozen half gallon milk jugs. To speed the prechill, keep temp on the road and moderate temp swings at camp during hot weather.

Fill the jug with water, then squeeze a bunch of water out and put the cap on while holding the squeeze. That way it won't split from ice expansion. Drink the cold water over the weekend.

[mzak]

I put a frozen gallon water jug in fridge prior to leaving. I also turn on propane set on low (1 or 2) when on the road. I have a remote thermometer in fridge and monitor temp from TV. It usually stays around 32-35 degrees depending on ambient temps. I also have ice water to drink as frozen water melts. Quite often there is still ice in the jug three days later. Switch to 120 AC at campsite if available otherwise leave propane on. I would suggest you use a remote thermometer so you can monitor the temp in fridge no matter what system you use for cooling fridge while you are on the road.

[OYO]

Originally Posted by mzak

I put a frozen gallon water jug in fridge prior to leaving. I also turn on propane set on low (1 or 2) when on the road. I have a remote thermometer in fridge and monitor temp from TV. It usually stays around 32-35 degrees depending on ambient temps. I also have ice water to drink as frozen water melts. Quite often there is still ice in the jug three days later. Switch to 120 AC at campsite if available otherwise leave propane on. I would suggest you use a remote thermometer so you can monitor the temp in fridge no matter what system you use for cooling fridge while you are on the road.

Yep. Remote thermometer here as well. Don't want your meat too warm or your favorite beverage too cold.

It's amazing the temperature variance inside the refer. Top shelf under the freezer vs bottom in the door can be 4-5° or more.

[stevetoney]

I thinking of an A213HW as well -- is it easy to get one without skylights -- I was thinking about this as -- especially for the 2 small one -- that are in a nice place for solar panels..

[tjwoody]

Originally Posted by stevetoney

I thinking of an A213HW as well -- is it easy to get one without skylights -- I was thinking about this as -- especially for the 2 small one -- that are in a nice place for solar panels..

Biscuit72 has a post with pictures on how he put 2 panels on his unit.

Title of the post is "200 Watts Solar Project on A Frame"

Very well done - professional looking job and plenty of room on the roof for 2 flexible (no drill/screws/mounting brackets, just adhesive to mount) panels. Worth a look.



2017 A212HW
2016 Ford Explorer TV
The Villages, Florida

Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

[mtmurphy56]

Hi there. Our first summer with a 213hw. Mods we've done:
Put 7 ft metal conduit from side to side where the roof latches are. Fits perfectly and we use it for hanging a curtain next to the toilet. Changed out compartment locks with combicams or thumb latches, depending. The twins made into a king felt really cramped, so we put some plywood on the little shelf things and turned a Queen sideways. That opens up about 19 inches on at the end of each twin for storage.

We haven't had any issues with the camper Cook at and heat both work great. We use a instaset screen room. Fridge works well but get one of those wireless thermometers so you can keep an eye on temp.

[MontyPP]

OboeGuy- We have the
Flagstaff T21TBHW with the water line attached to the toilet. Check up inside the cartridge box where the water flows into the system at the top. The plastic pipe may need to be reconnected. I found out that the waterpump had been left on and the pipe started leaking at the attachment.