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Old 08-11-2016, 09:21 PM   #11
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if the original equipment is not working properly, you should be filing warranty claims. otherwise, future buyers will continue to get the same junk installed.



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Originally Posted by DickiedooFlagman View Post
x2. Quickly figured our the WFCO was not doing what the manual said. Would not drop back to a 13.2 volt holding pattern after charging. Stayed at 13.7v. Installed a progressive dynamics external unit on its own 120V circuit, and flipped off the WFCO. Happy now for 3 years.
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Old 08-11-2016, 09:23 PM   #12
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following this thread

Any photos of the installs?

Thanks, BP
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Old 08-12-2016, 08:42 AM   #13
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BP: I'll get some photos later today before I button up for the trip.

As for filing a warranty claim (as Rob Hagen wants), I'm not going to bother for several reasons:

- my 2 year extended warranty ended in April.
- I was not interested in replacing with another WFCO converter (what warranty would have done at best). I was also not interested in having some non-caring electrician do the replacement installation. I wanted to do it myself to ensure I had better quality components and better wiring practices.

WFCO has a pretty sorry reputation among those who understand these devices. It's a cheap Chinese-made converter with apparently little quality control. OTOH, there are literally millions of RV owners with WFCO converters that never complain or replace their converters. It took me 2 years to figure out and confirm that my WFCO converter was not working as specified - and I have an electrical background. It did do most of what the specs said it would.

The other issue for Forest River is - even if they wanted to switch to Progressive Dynamics for converters - could PD produce enough converters fast enough at their current standard? Progressive has a good chunk of the RV converter replacement market, but that is well less than 10% of the RVs produced. Trying to supply the OEM market would definitely change Progressive Dynamics as a company.

I realize you are unhappy with Forest River, and want to generate a movement to get them to fix their quality issues. I'm opting out because I have other causes I am more interested in, and I'd rather spend my time using my camper for camping.

Fred W
2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
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Old 08-14-2016, 08:34 PM   #14
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I just installed a dual power outlet so I can monitor the converter voltage and plug in a Fantastic Endless Breeze portable fan. I spliced it into the wires that come out of the converter and feed the 10 Amp circuit for the ceiling vent fan and dome lights.



I switched the converter off and then on again to reset the timer. For two days it was putting out 13.6 volts, then dropped to 13.0 volts, so it looks like it is working as designed at this time.




Of course, 13.6 volts will not properly charge the battery to full capacity, so I will need to continue to use my stand-alone charger that supplies 14.4 volts whenever I need full capacity. For me this is an acceptable procedure, but the PD converter swap is obviously a superior system since it does everything automatically.
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Old 02-10-2017, 09:43 PM   #15
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pgandw, I am in the process of installing the same unit in my truck camper and could really use your help with one thing. The black wire that powers the converter side of the unit, where should it be attached on the AC side? The manual says "connect converter hot to an open breaker". Does this have to be a dedicated breaker or do I connect where the shore power hot wire connects to the main breaker? Thanks in advance for your help!!
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Old 02-10-2017, 10:55 PM   #16
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The first AC circuit breaker powers the converter. The AC wires from the converter - black goes to the circuit breaker, white goes to the neutral bus, green goes to the ground bus.

Fred W
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Old 02-11-2017, 08:02 AM   #17
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The first AC circuit breaker powers the converter. The AC wires from the converter - black goes to the circuit breaker, white goes to the neutral bus, green goes to the ground bus.

Fred W
You have to look at one hooked up and think it through for a bit. Normally a breaker picks up power from the main buss and feeds it out to a circuit. But, when a breaker is used as a main breaker, the opposite is true. The power comes in through the breaker and then feeds the main buss. When you switch this breaker off the main buss is dead, killing all circuits. Think of it as the power flowing backwards through the breaker that is used as a main. It brings power in, not out.
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Old 02-11-2017, 09:19 AM   #18
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That's what I was concerned about. If I connect it to the same pole that the incoming shore power hot connects to, the converter side will have power all the time, even if the main breaker trips. Is this safe?
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Old 02-11-2017, 10:05 AM   #19
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Sorry for the erroneous information. This site does not let me delete or edit prior posts.

I'm going from memory and what few notes I have because the camper is in the garage for the winter.

You have to move the circuit breakers and fuses from the WFCO to the PD4135. PD does not supply either. You could buy new - I did for the fuses. But the circuit breakers I just moved over from the WFCO to the PD one circuit at a time.

Cedar Creek Woody is correct, and I was wrong. The 1st circuit breaker is the master input breaker - and it should be 30 amps. It's not at the top, like in a household breaker box. Your external power cord should be wired to this breaker.

There were 4 more AC breakers in my WFCO. One for the converter, one for the A/C, the 3rd for the fridge and 120V outlets, and the 4th for the microwave. There are only 3 breaker slots, so four half-width breakers are used (and 1 full-width for the input). I did one circuit at a time, tested it, and then disconnected all power while I worked on the next. I started with the input breaker, the converter breaker was second.

After I moved all the AC breakers and circuits, I tested the AC side operation. I then started on the DC side, mapping what was on each DC circuit as I went fuse by fuse. I was initially confused because the WFCO had 7 fuses and the PD only has 6. Finally figured out the reverse polarity 40 amp fuse on the WFCO is actually part of the converter, and is NOT a seventh DC circuit.

I made sure the battery circuit (fused at 40 amp for the output of the converter) of the PD went only to the battery. Other A-frame owners have found other stuff besides the battery on that circuit. IIRC, the battery, fridge DC, water pump, thermostat and heater fan combined, each have separate circuits and fuses. The overhead stuff that passes through the roof-raised contact is all on a single circuit - the 2 overhead lights and the Fantastic Fan. Everything else is on the last circuit - stereo, porch light, tongue light, etc.

Take it slow, do one circuit at a time, and map out what you do. And label the fuses and circuit breakers! I'm very happy with the PD converter/panel. The fan is much quieter, and it does a much better job of charging and maintaining my batteries.

Fred W
2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame
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Old 02-11-2017, 10:51 AM   #20
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That's what I was concerned about. If I connect it to the same pole that the incoming shore power hot connects to, the converter side will have power all the time, even if the main breaker trips. Is this safe?
I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. If the incoming hot wire is connected to the 30 amp breaker the entire converter is protected by the 30 amp breaker. If you turn this breaker off the only current in the converter is where this wire is clamped to the breaker. Remember this 30 amp breaker is being used the reverse of the other breakers. It is feeding power to the main buss, not drawing power from the buss like the other breakers are doing.
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