RM 4223 fridge blues
My wife and I went on a short trip last weekend. As per usual, I installed the battery fuse, plugged the camper into the wall outlet and switched the fridge over to 110. The next morning, I found the control compartments cold - the fridge was not working. No worries, I'll switch it over to 12 volt and it will cool while traveling.
Finally, on site my wife found a warm fridge. Neither the 110 or 12 volt circuits were working. No worries, I'll fire up the propane and all will be well - it worked.
Back home, I started investigating. Plugged things in and switched it to 12 volt and gave it an hour. Fridge was warm and the stack was cold. The only things that were warm was the "closed-end" connectors that connected the fridge to 12 volt trailer power. They were very hot to the touch! I cut those out and reconnected power using insulated butt connectors. 12 volts now works!
120 side is more complicated. The easy test is to remove all power and measure the impedance between the two blades of the plug with an ohm meter. It showed open - circuit. I removed the controller from the back of the fridge and removed the plastic wire guard for closer inspection. Need more information. I searched for the parts list and found one for the fridge. I downloaded it and found that it had a wiring schematic. Armed with the ohm meter, I found the thermostat was open - circuited. I tried to pull the connectors off the thermostat and then decided I would wait until I got a new one. One last check with the ohm meter and I measured 91 ohms at the plug. Plugged everything in and switched over to 110. It worked.
So, I have a dickey thermostat and have contacted the dealer about getting a warranty replacement. In the mean time I will try the 110 first before switching over to 12 volts or propane. At least do now, I do have a reliable "2-way" fridge for now
2009 Toyota Tacoma V6 crew cab 4X4 V6 TRD
2014 Flagstaff T12RB