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Old 05-09-2013, 11:36 AM   #111
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Why not just pull the main fuse which is located right next to the battery when you want no power on the camper? A lot easier than rewiring. Less opportunity for future issues.
I'd love to but my new A128S has no fuse on the outside of the camper. Not sure why. Maybe because it's illegal to run without battery power for the breakaway switch, which would be easy to do if you pulled the fuse before driving off
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Old 05-09-2013, 12:33 PM   #112
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Refrigerator questions

The refrigerator has a switch for both 12 volt and 120 volt.

Do you ever run the refrigerator on 12 volt?

Do you turn just the 120 volt switch on when plugged into shore power or turn both on?

The dealer did a hurried walk through (I will be having more questions because of this) so I was checking the manual today and it doesn't really say.
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Old 05-09-2013, 12:43 PM   #113
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Never run more than 1 power source at once.


If you tow vehicle has power on the charging pin then you can use 12v while towing, but remember that long periods without the vehicle running can drain the tow vehicle battery of you don't have a battery isolation relay or switch.

Use 120v (12v off) when on shore power.
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Old 05-09-2013, 01:00 PM   #114
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Originally Posted by jeanette View Post
A lot easier than rewiring.
Yes it is.

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Less opportunity for future issues.
My take on this is that it would be a cause of future issues for me. Namely forgetting to the fuse. Or misplacing it while on the road when I want the trailer battery disconnected. Or falls out if I don't close the holder fully. Of forget to pull it when I get home then can't see whether the battery is connected or not.

For me, the switch is just the simplest way. Marine switches are quite robust and are suitable to leave exposed to the weather for years. The wiring is easy and just requires a few crimp connectors. In the six or so years I had a switch on my Niagara, it never gave me a problem.
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Old 05-09-2013, 02:58 PM   #115
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Namely forgetting to the fuse. Or misplacing it while on the road when I want the trailer battery disconnected. Or falls out if I don't close the holder fully.
I'm in complete agreement on this and won't be adding an inline fuse. I can see me misplacing it. For now I've added pulling the inside fuse that will stop power to the interior (was told by my dealer it's the second from the bottom) to my "breaking camp checklist" and will see if that works for now. I'll look at adding a cut off rocker switch near the door or an exterior marine switch later.

Right now all I want to do is get it packed and ready to head out of town and go camping.

Thanks for input from all of you.
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Old 05-09-2013, 03:02 PM   #116
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I'd be surprised if there is no inline fuse near the battery line, Ina little rubber weatherproof case. I unplug this during off-season when I'm storing it, put the fuse right on top of the propane tank cover while its in storage (I have covered storage), since I check all the lights and directionally prior to any departure, it's impossible for me to forget the fuse.

Switches, meters and all the extras are nice if you have the time, money and interest in doing all the mods. I'm not interested in that so I try to keep it pretty simple.
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Old 06-07-2013, 08:31 PM   #117
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Tom -- I may wait on this until you get your A122 and see what you find.

The wires going to the battery on mine are red for power/positive and white for ground/negative. This trailer has red for positive as far as I can see.

Do you agree the breakaway switch being hard wired would be better?

When are you expecting your camper to arrive?
Dredging up an old thread here now that I've had an opportunity to inspect mine.

If yours is like mine, it has a circuit breaker on the positive wire, just under the front of the trailer. The breaker is the big red capped thing on the left of the image. The front of the trailer is down.



The wire from the battery runs there but is first split to provide current to the breakaway switch at the bottom of the two connectors, with the red and black wires. The top connector is the return from the breakaway switch that connects it to the blue brake wires.

To add a battery disconnect switch on the red wire, the hot side of the breakaway switch must be cut and attached directly to the red somewhere before the disconnect switch. Even the hot side terminal on the disconnect switch would do.

Always remember to cap off any wires you cut, lest they cause mischief when you least expect it.

I haven't decided on my battery configuration yet. I can see two main options. 1. Having two 12V batteries that are not connected to each other so I can remove one for charging while the other powers the camper. 2. Two 6V golf cart batteries, they will fit nicely on the tongue.
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Old 06-26-2013, 10:00 PM   #118
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As far as that fuse outside is concerned, I have a roll of orange electrical tape and when I take it out, I tape it to the top of the battery box. The orange tape is easy to see and if the fuse is there or not. I insisted the dealer cover the wires on the tongue with the same stuff they use on the autos and trucks. Looked good and protects the wires. Would be easy to do yourself and pretty cheap.
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:22 PM   #119
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How about insurance? I haven't looked into it yet, but was wondering what kind of coverage and approximately how much for a six month comprehensive policy similar to a car policy or will your auto policy include the A-Frame?
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Old 06-27-2013, 11:05 AM   #120
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How about insurance? I haven't looked into it yet, but was wondering what kind of coverage and approximately how much for a six month comprehensive policy similar to a car policy or will your auto policy include the A-Frame?
Our camper is covered as part of the policy on the tow vehicle (Farmers Insurance Co.). I think the added premium was something like $32 a year. For road hazards we carry AAAPlus RV.
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