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Old 01-26-2017, 04:53 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn.O View Post
I would disconnect the brake controller and see if the issue goes away. this way you can rule it out as the issue when/if the problem continues...

good luck...
This seems to be the most sensible to me. Nothing to loose. Any place that dells batteries should be able to perform a test on your battery at no cost. This includes all parts houses.
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Old 01-26-2017, 05:01 PM   #22
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total dealership BS...

you may not be able to change their minds, BUT

IF your brake controller is hooked up correctly (you said the RV dealer did it) it will NEVER kill your Toyota battery... as it should turn itself OFF when your Toyota is parked, therefore NEVER drawing down the battery when the car is off and parked.

when you do replace the toyota battery, find the largest amp-hr battery that will fit into the spot for it in the Toyota and buy it... a local auto parts store will help you... screw the dealer... because he is screwing you...

typically only get a prorated 3 yr warranty on most batteries, meaning you only get a free one if it fails within 12 months, otherwise you have to pay something to get a new battery based on how old it is.
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Old 01-26-2017, 05:19 PM   #23
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Son has a Ford Fusion Hybrid. No battery within 50 miles. I did price batteries at local parts stores and a Battery Warehouse who all said they had batteries that would but did not fit.

I was finding batteries with warranties from 18 months to 3 years. Finally went to the Ford dealer and they had the correct battery on their shelves. Pricing of the Ford battery was within $10 of all the places I checked. Their battery was 3 year replacement and additional 2 year prorated for a total of 5 years. Surprisingly that was the best deal of all the local places. If he looses receipt it is in the Ford data base and is covered nation wide at any Ford dealer. I wouldn't rule the dealer out until you check.
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Old 01-26-2017, 06:04 PM   #24
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I have a Rockwood Aframe which I tow with my 2015 Toyota Highlander XLE with tow package.
The brake controller was installed by my local RV dealer.
The other day my battery died while in a bank drive through!
Your battery is not going to die from a brake control after the motor starts. You had enough battery to start the car and drive to the bank. The charger was not charging the battery or the battery is bad or bad wiring some where between.
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Old 01-26-2017, 06:26 PM   #25
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drive through

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They said is it just the battery. I did have it shut off at the bank drive up as it takes a lot of time when I go there. Then it wouldn't restart.

They said it is drawing 5 milliamps--i believe it what they said.

I wonder if they are just trying to blame it on the aftermarket part so they do not have to cover it under warranty (it is still under warranty but only until April)
Please for my sanity (as well as others) if your transactions are that complicated, go inside. Got that off my chest so----as others have said, nothing should have a high enough draw to kill a battery in that short of a time. I would startby cleaning the battery cnnection and work out from there. Could be a dirty/loose onnection. Good luck.
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Old 01-26-2017, 07:41 PM   #26
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battery/line/switch issue

Check me on this (electrical guys). But if hooking up something that draws a lot of current (not when not being used but when actuating), shouldn't one go from the battery to a Relay then to a switch with power supply from the relay going to the device?
It may only draw a minuscule amount just sitting there, but what about when being used (either by brake pedal pressure or manually)? Seems like I was told not to go from the batt to the switch and then to the end unit, without going through a relay, and using heavy wire on those legs, and a lighter wire on the switch.
I haven't hooked anything like halogen lights or such in a long time.
I do agree with the post about batteries, and their lives. So variable. Depends on heat, cold level of fluid, level of charge, cleanliness, age, and attachments,
use abuse...
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Old 01-26-2017, 07:59 PM   #27
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The dealer said the Brake controller is drawing 5ma (.005 amp). I am guessing that a car would have at least 100 amp hours battery. That is like 20,000 hours. 20000/24 is like 800 days. so nothing wrong there.
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Old 01-27-2017, 05:58 AM   #28
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If you are hooked up to your tow vehicle your charge line from tv to camper should more than keep your battery charged.. check to see if you have 12 v power at you tv connector when engine is running. If the dealer did not install the charge line fuse or breaker ( not installed at factory ) you will not keep your trailer battery charged .
Your on the wrong page people are talking about the tv battery not the camper battery, sit down and have another beer
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Old 01-27-2017, 06:08 AM   #29
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total dealership BS...

you may not be able to change their minds, BUT

IF your brake controller is hooked up correctly (you said the RV dealer did it) it will NEVER kill your Toyota battery... as it should turn itself OFF when your Toyota is parked, therefore NEVER drawing down the battery when the car is off and parked.

when you do replace the toyota battery, find the largest amp-hr battery that will fit into the spot for it in the Toyota and buy it... a local auto parts store will help you... screw the dealer... because he is screwing you...

typically only get a prorated 3 yr warranty on most batteries, meaning you only get a free one if it fails within 12 months, otherwise you have to pay something to get a new battery based on how old it is.



I always go to a interstate battery distributor not a dealer and get what they call a blem battery . All batteries have a shelve life so once it reaches that they go back to the distributor and they sell them for half price so what I spend $ 45 .00 for a $100.00 5 year battery. I have them in all of equipment when ever I need a replacement battery some last 5 or more years and only 4 but for the $$$ I am still ahead
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Old 01-27-2017, 06:40 AM   #30
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They said is it just the battery. I did have it shut off at the bank drive up as it takes a lot of time when I go there. Then it wouldn't restart.

They said it is drawing 5 milliamps--i believe it what they said.

I wonder if they are just trying to blame it on the aftermarket part so they do not have to cover it under warranty (it is still under warranty but only until April)
Not sure why you are shutting off your vehicle while in line unless its 1/2 hour or more. I would leave it run but that is me. But if you are keeping your foot on the brake you are pulling amps from the the brake lights and a small amount of power from the controller as both would be energized. I can't see this pulling a lot of amps but depends on how long. Are you listening to the radio while in line?? If so your headlights could also be on if the key is on.

How long is the vehicle off while in line?

Just guessing. But I can't see just the controller pulling enough amps to run the battery down in a short time so the vehicle won't start.

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Old 01-28-2017, 07:36 PM   #31
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Go to a different Toyota dealer if you can. Any dealer that is that picky about replacing an in warranty battery doesn't deserve your business. I've had one new car battery and one store bought battery replaced warranty since I had my first brake controller installed. One of them was just days before the warranty expired. Both the Dodge and Firestone dealers just promised to get the car fixed as soon as possible.

BS on the Toyota dealer for telling you that. If you can't go to another dealer, just replace it somewhere else.

Or if you want to take a stand with the dealer, go for it. It is good to do that sometimes too. Ask them for the documentation on the reason for the denial in writing. Then call the Toyota US corporate office.
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Old 01-28-2017, 07:44 PM   #32
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Old 01-28-2017, 09:22 PM   #33
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i'm not going to read 4 pages of threads, but i hope someone already said or noted that once a vehicle is running the alternator would charge the battery. The brake controller would not draw so much power to kill the battery while it was running. Parked for months on end maybe. Sounds more like a cell going bad in the battery and hitting the end of battery life to me.

In a perfect world the battery would not be wired directly to the battery. it would only be hot/one when key was in on position like your radio. But even your radio and clock pull a small amount of power all the time to keep presets etc.
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Old 01-28-2017, 09:38 PM   #34
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Ok update--per toyota the acceptable amount is 5 milliamps or under, with the brake controller attached it is pulling 7.5. When he disconnects it--it is pulling under 5 again. So no they will not cover it.
I believe my RV place will install a switch so I can turn it on and off--due to the issue.

No one is replacing my battery so I guess I am out of luck.
So this is telling me that your brake controller is drawing less that 5 milliamps, if with the controller it is at 7.5 and without you are under 5..
As others have said I wouldn't add a switch.. Too much left to chance.. Instead of the switch, I'd opt to move the controller to a fused power supply..
Someone asked about a relay for the "large power draw".. Although that is true, that is not the case here..
One suggested maybe you had the key on ACC while waiting in the line to listen to the radio... That could do it.. Especially if you had the heater fan going, lights, radio, maybe a cell charger, and possibly an already weak battery..
Unfortuantely it sounds like you are going to have to bite the bullet, and buy a battery.. I'd take the old one in and have them test it for you while you get a new one. After that I'd also have them check your charging system. It is possible you have an alternator issue and your battery wasn't getting fully charged for awhile.. I'd get it done at the battery/auto parts store, as opposed to the dealership as a kind of independent point of view.. It may cost you a few bucks, but the piece of mind is worth it..
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